When the auto/defrost kicks on, the element in the lower back wall will heat up and thaw the ice. the thawed ice has started running and puddling in the bottom of the freezer and once that has filled, it will run out the door. there is a puddle of water on the floor every day in front of the freezer. i know the water is not coming from an overflow of the ice maker because i have actually have seen the element on and the water start to stream down into the bottom of the freezer and onto the floor.
I had the same problem, and the solution is that the drain valve was plugged. On my unit, I removed the lower back panel and started cleaning. It was filthy, and I don't think it had been cleaned for 8 years or so. Anyway, there is a drain hose that releases into a flat pan. The pan is really long and weaves its way through the all the other components under the fridge. It is designed to increase surface area and allow the defrosted water to evaporate. Anyway, the drain hose into that pan was plugged. I just removed it from the point of connection to the drain and blew into it (from upstream) and that dislodged the dirt plugging it up. My system allowed relatively easy access, but I would guess some designs might be pretty tricky. Also, make sure you have some towels standing by because when you remove the drain hose, all the backed up water will come streaming out. This was a surprisingly easy job, and only took about 30 minutes total. The main work was vacuuming all the dirt. The lesson learned is that this should be done every few months. Also, a lot of the insulation around the components had pretty much disintegrated, so that was more clean up, and I imagine there might be some issues now with efficiency and maybe hot or uneven spots in the fridge itself.
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Probably a blocked drain outlet or pipe. At the bottom rear of the unit, mine had a drain pipe blocked with a plug of mould (5/6 years old machine), apparently quite common. I detached the pipe and cleaned it out and replaced it.
From inside the freezer, I removed the lower back panel and thawed the ice build up on the drainage tray below the defrost heating element, leading to the pipe outside. The puddles of water that was appearing every defrost cycle have now stopped - permanently I hope. Hope this helps you
We had this problem with our ice maker last week. We could get water through the door water dispenser but it stopped making ice. We had read that the line could be frozen and that was the case. We have a KitchenAid Superba and the easiest way to thaw it out was to remove the two screws holding the water hose elbow into the back of the freezer (pull the fridge out away from the wall to access it). It will come out with about a 5-6 inch long hard plastic tube which goes through the back freezer wall and joins with an aluminum tube (which may also be plugged with ice) that reaches the ice maker. Looking inside the tube we could see the ice blockage. Heating it up with a hair dryer made the ice plug drop right out. We had tried to thaw it out by heating the tube inside the freezer, but the ice plug was actually in the wall part of the freezer and we wouldn't have been able to thaw it out from the inside (short of shutting the refrigerator off). When the heat was applied...a 3 inch plug of ice dropped out of the tube, and there was even a very small piece of ice blocking the elbow part. We wouldn't have been able to thaw that area out without taking it apart.
More than likely either your defrost timer is bad or the heating element in the fzr is bad. The timer is normally located with the controls in the fridge side behind the plastic back or top if there is a light in the top center. It will have an access where you can turn it manually with a flatblade screwdriver. Turn it slowly and you will hear clicks it may take a few min. but try to make it click one at a time and listen for the fan and compressor to kick off. (slowly the defrost mode is just one click) If it kicks off wait 3 min and open the fzr and see if you hear hissing or ice cracking. (the hissing will be water dripping onto the heating element) If this happens replace the defrost timer. If you do not hear the element hissing ect... The element is bad or the defrost limit attached to one end of it it will be a round disc apx the size of a nickel replace it. good luck and remember to unplug the refridgerator before delving into the elect parts. I hope this helps you can defrost the fzr manually with a hair dryer or if the manual turning of the timer works until you get the offending part. good luck
the evaporator coil inside the freezer compartment is iced over and can't transfer cold air in thes condition,remove panel inside freezer on back side of freezer compartment and thaw it out with a hair dryer,then check the defrost heating element for continuity,if its open replace it,if its good, ,check the defrost control that powers the defrost heater
If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
You almost certainly have a defrost system failuure. Half the time it is the heating element inside the back of the freezer. Put all your frozen food into an ice chest. Then remove the bins and racks. Unscrew the screws holding the back wall. If it is really locked up with ice, you can use a hair dryer to thaw the back wall until it comes loose. Once rremoved, you will see the entire back area locked up with ice. This must be thawed. The symptom is that the ice blocks the air from flowing thru the coils and then blowing intot he fridge. Once thawed, test the heating element with a multimeter for resistance.
Note! Was the fan running inside the freezer when you first looked inside? If not, the fan motor is probably the problem. Other things which might be the culprit include the terminator (small metal button looking thingy at the top of the coils (check for resistance only when below 38 degrees) or the timer/control board. Good luck! You may email me personally with this one at firstname.lastname@example.org if that does not get your problem solved.
Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if
there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not
defrosting as it should.
bad defrost timer
bad defrost heater (in freezer)
bad thermo switch in freezer
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice
melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if
is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above
Remove the back liner and wall (more details on this below if you need them) to expose the iced up drain line (only 1) on the right side center inside the aluminum drain pan (Directly behind the bottom right side vent that goes into the freezer compartment). Thaw it out so that it will allow water to drain off (slow way -turn off unit for hours, not quite so slow - spoon in hot water - use towels to keep as much of the water from running into the lower freezer)
When the drain is clear and water is draining freely, take light qauge copper wire (t-stat or low volt) and feed it down the drain approx 3 - 4 feet and then wrap the end of it tightly around the heavy defrost bar located just above the the drain hole (this bar resembles an oven element or dishwasher heater element and circles the entire freezer coil). Put several tight wraps on it. This will transfer some of the heat from the defrost cycle down into the drain line and hopefully solve your problem.
If the coils are totally iced up you may have a defrost cycle problem and if so this solution won't work)
reinstall all liners and wiring and you're done
removing the back wall (if you are unsure)
take of plate located at upper left side of the back wall (2 short screws) to expose the wire harness- separate the main connectors)
remove the 6 fasteners attaching the back metal liner wall (4 long & 2 short - the short ones go to outside lower holes) . and remove
the bottom plastic liner tray (just lifts out) and the short plastic base wall at the back bottom of the compartment ( it may be iced in and hard to remove- be careful)
remove the stryofoam insulating liner. Again it may be iced in and frozen to the unit so be careful and if necessary use warm water to thaw it out.
This will expose the inner liner wall and the lower drain pan and line. If you see that the bottom of the coils are iced up you may want to remove the inner liner and defrost the coils but this it not usually the case and you can leave it in place.
Again, if the coils are totally iced up you may have a defrost cycle problem and if so this solution won't work)