Question about Amana NAV8800E Top Load Washer

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Amana Top Load washer

I have a 3 yr old Amana washer and it was tripping my breakers. I changed outlets and it now shuts itself off for a few minutes and then starts back up but turns itself off again. I can't get it to finish the cycle. Just so you know I am only washing 1 item in the washer.

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  • dvdusen Jun 10, 2008

    No...I changed outlets to see if I had too much of a load on the circuit. It doesn't trip the other breaker buts clicks itself off(probably an internal breaker of some sort) then starts again but keeps doing this.

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You mean you changed plugs on it
if this is the case then you might have a bad ground in which this is plaeging you

Posted on Jun 10, 2008

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This washer intermittently trips the breaker about once a week. I have tried another circuit and it trips that breaker too. What is the most likely cause?


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.

if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!




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May 28, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Hi my fisher and paykel MW512 top loader washing machine keeps throwing my electrical switch. A few months ago it wouldnt drain and came up with heaps of error codes and now it is tripping my switch. What...


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.

Mar 25, 2015 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

1 Answer

Top loading Kenmore washer runs for a few seconds then shuts off


It's quite possible, however,

If you're mechanically inclined, I'd check the motor, transmission and pump first.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load, direct drive washers and it's trouble-shooting section.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

See the following for how to pull the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission to check them all.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

YOU DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE TUB.


Mar 15, 2010 | Kenmore 43142 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a 9 yr old KUDS01IJBSO and there is no power to the control panel and the breaker is not tripped. Is this likely to be an electronic control panel failure?


check the outlets, may be a GFI outlet tripped, check the switches with washer on. If you have aluminum wire in house may be the connection to the washer.

Mar 10, 2010 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

(electric 240v 50 gal.,3 yr old)breaker on unit(not elec service panel) trips every afternoon-not apparantly under load


there may be a short in the heating element causing it to trip, or the breaker itself need to be replaced.

Dec 03, 2009 | Reliance Water Heaters

2 Answers

Why does my washing machine trip the electric


run the machine, after it trips, unplug and carefully touch the motor,it may have a bad capacitor, or dry bearings causing it to draw excessive current,if these 2 things are not it, then look for a bare wire that may be touching case during this part of the cycle,and if you can get an "Amprobe" it reads current and check machines current draw during the start to trip current

Oct 27, 2009 | Hotpoint WMA58 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Breaker keeps tripping when I use Amana NED5500TQ electric dryer.


Heating element or motor. Usually heating element. Replace limit switch (inside dryer) during repair. Limit switch should shut off before breaker if working correctly.

After repair clean or replace plug/wire. Inspect or replace receptacle in wall.

Sep 28, 2009 | Amana NED5500TQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Trips GFCI receptacle for laundry circuit.


I ran into this problem with a washer this summer. the gfi breaker needs to be replaced. it is weak and trips easily. if you can run an extension cord to an outlet without the gfi andrun your washer, you probably will not have any issues. that is what I found with the washer this summer. when it was plugged into the gfi, itwould trip. but when I had it plugged into a regular outlet, it was fine. Joe

Nov 18, 2008 | Whirlpool Calypso GVW9959K Top Load Washer

1 Answer

GE WPSE5290 Prodigy Performance Profile not Spinning; no obstructions


Are you check darin hose clogged? Test this... wait for a few minutes, pauses of up to three minutes may occur between cycles as the timer advances in steps. For example, there may be a 3-minute delay at the end of agitation and prior to the washer pumping out the water. The pump-out process itself can then take an additional 3 minutes. After the pump out, the washer will begin to spin. Do not manually advance the timer if it's pausing after agitation, as you may miss the pump-out cycle.

Check your house fuses, circuit breakers, and the wall outlet. A loss of electrical power to the washer will cause a failure to spin. To check for power at the wall outlet, carefully plug a small table lamp or hair dryer into the wall outlet and turn it on. If it does not work, you may have blown a fuse, tripped a circuit breaker, or have a defective wall outlet.

Make sure washer lid is down. Some older washers will agitate with lid up, but none will spin with lid up.

Advance timer slightly to make sure timer was not in a pause mode. The word "Spin" may not appear on the dial. Spin occurs in the area just before the "Off" position.

Front load models only: Be sure the dispenser drawer is closed. Front load models only: Is the load too small? Add one or two similar items to help balance out the load.

For models with rotary knob "Spin Speed" selector switch: check that the pointer of knob is not stuck between speed selections.

If machine pumps water out and you are positive that the motor is running, but tub is not spinning, then the problem is mechanical involving a clutch, belt, or possibly the transmission and will require service.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.

Sep 15, 2008 | GE WPSE7003A Top Load Washer

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