Wash cycle starts out normally counting down at 76 the countdown stops but the dishwasher continues to wash, sensing light is always on, somewhere around 2 hours the dishwasher stops and does not drain. All other cycles seem to act the same way with the count down stopping about 10 minutes into the cycle with the exception ofTime saver which seems to work correctly draing and everything. I believe the problem has to do with the sensing, I have checked the heating elment 1.5 meg ohms and I am told that this is ok, I have taken everythin apart checking for blockage the impellers, everything looks to be ok with 1 exception the cogs that drive the chopper assy need to be replaced, but that I don't believe explains the problem that I am having. HELP !
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To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88′ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed. To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4). 0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test) To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty. If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4′ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0′, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8′ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating. --------- The dishwasher not draining is most probably faulty drain pump or drain hose is got bit loose.It has to be checked and confirmed .You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution
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try running the test cycle or running delicate economy in that cycle it gets up to 150 degrees in the very first cycle let it run 15 or 20 min see if the water is screaming hot it is not and Luke warm it is not heating it is most likely a control board heaters very rarely go out
I do nto have a solution- just the exact same problem. My machine gets stuck on 76 when doing a "normal wash" . last night I hit cancel and drain, then went to "time saver" and ran the wash and it seemed to work fine. Funny that both of our amchines stop at 76. Any ideas?
if it hums when you are in the wash phase then something is jamming the wash impeller like broken glass tooth pick found a necklace in one one time i think replacing the control board fixed the other problems on most washers the drain pump is separate from the wash motor haven't worked on bosch so not sure take off the lower spray arm and go down till you get to the impeller then do what you have to do clear it or replace wash motor