Camera is not accurately taking pictures. It states, recording event and flashes as if it is taking pictures. However, when you view the smart card, there is no picture to view. Normally each event is recorded and every time it counts how many events there have been. But this is only stating one event even though there have been multiple events. We put new batteries in and also changed and put new smart card. Neither has solved the problem.
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The FORCED OFF mode is the setting where flash is not activated in any recording condition. this mode used when taking pictures in places where the use of the flash is not permitted.
There are other 5 different mode/setting in using photo flash.
1. AUTO - flash automatically activated according to the recording condition.
2. AUTO/Red-eye reduction - flash is automatically activated according to the recording condition. It reduces the red-eye phenomenon by triggering the flash before actually recording the picture. After that, the flash is activated for actual recording again.
3. FORCED ON - use the when your subject is back-lit or under fluorescent light.
4. FORCED ON/Red-eye reduction - use this when you set the camera to PARTY MODE
5. Slow sync./Red-eye reduction - use this when you take pictures of people in front of a dark background.
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There are multiple reazons for the picture to look dark, a very short exposure, or a low flash intensity.
Try changing the flash intensity, this is done by pressing the Exposure compensation and flash button simultaneously.
Or playing with the exposure settings to see if there is any difference.
Concerning the ORF file format, this is this camera's RAW format, it's usefull to proffesionals, but for the common user, JPEG is the best option. As far as I know, this camera records both formats simultaneously.
For future refferences, here is the user manual : http://www.olympusamerica.com/files/oima_cckb/E-420_Instruction_Manual_EN.pdf
Self-timer (10-second delay) it will have a 10 on it
Time to get yourself into the picture. Place camera on a tripod or flat surface.
Self-timer (2-second delay) it will have a 2 on it
Allows for a steady, auto-shutter release on a tripod.
Self-timer (2 pictures) it has a 2X on it Capture 2 shots (one picture taken after 10 seconds and another picture taken 8 seconds later).
First Burst Flash forced off.it has like 2 folders in front of the camera
Camera takes up to 8 pictures (2 per second) while the Shutter button is held. The first 8 are saved. (Capture an expected
event e.g., baseball swing)
Last Burst Flash forced off. it has 2 folders behind the camera
Camera takes up to 30 pictures (2 per second up to 15 seconds) while the
Shutter button is held. When the shutter button is
released, only the last 8 pictures are saved.
(Capture an event when the precise timing is uncertain e.g., a child
out birthday candles.)
I imagine your son's wrestling events are held in school gyms with lighting that is less than ideal. If you are taking pictures without a flash then the blurriness you describe could well be due to a slow shutter speed. Your camera is using a slower shutter speed to gather enough light, but your subjects are moving fast enough to cause motion blur in the picture. Either you increase the aperture (larger aperture = smaller f number), increase the ISO number (equivalent to film speed), or you use a flash. If you do use a flash, the built-in pop-up flash is only useful for close shots probably no more than 15 feet away or so. A speedlight flash, such as the Nikon SB-400, Sb-600, SB-700 or SB-900 will project the light much farther.
If you set your ISO manually to 1250 or 1600 and put your D90 on shutter-priority (the "S" on the left dial) then you can use the right rear dial to set your shutter speed and the camera will set the aperture for you. To stop the action you will likely need at least 1/125 or 1/160 of a second. Go as high (fast) as you can--the limit will be your lens. The standard "kit" lenses are mostly F5.6 as the biggest aperture, and that is limiting without a flash or daylight. You might also try a monopod--a one-legged stand--to help steady your camera for you.
this sounds like a problem with the sd card either being corrupt and needing formating or being to large. if made in 07 or older it takes 512 mb sd card max if in 08 or newer it will take up to a one gig sd card.
Built in flash units on digital cameras are only meant to be used out to a distance of 6-12 feet. When taking photos of events ie graduations, sporting events, concerts you need to do two things. 1). Change the ISO setting on your camera. This is the same as the old film speed ratings the higher the number the more sensitive the camera becomes. try ISO 1600 or above in low light. 2) You have a mode setting, set it for the type of lighting that is in the space you are in, incandescent, flourescent or whatever, it's easy to do. and finally 3) Turn off your flash! When your flash is on your camera closes up the aperature and takes the picture at a higher rate of speed in anticipation of reflected light off of nearby objects, so your pictures will be darker and blurrier with the flash on.
Even high grade professional flashes only work out to 20-30 feet so they won't help you. Read your cameras manual on taking pictures in low light conditions. It will give you all of the above in great detail. You have a great camera but you need to learn how it works, don't give up on it.
The D40 will not take great photos of an indoor event without blurring or noise. You need a fast lens and a high ISO using the popup flash or on camera flash would be ideal but some of these events you can not use flash. All these images I shot with a Nikon D40. http://www.facebook.com/home.php?src=fftb#/pages/Keller-TX/Raving-Design/78762448229?v=photos&ref=ts Learn to use the camera for ur events. Experiment it's all about trial and error. Ray