Question about Frigidaire Affinity ATF7000E Front Load Washer

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Door lock light

My door lock light wont come on and so it isn't working at all.

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  • dsgralinski Jul 06, 2008

    I have the same problem - the machine was working fine for a few months and now the door will not lock - I get the "dr" error code when the door is closed.

  • Anonymous Sep 11, 2008

    I ran a load just fine in the morning,than in the afternoon I started getting "dr" code too and won't lock. A repair man said to un-plug for atleast 15mins, but I had it un-plug for hours and did not help.


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Did not work for me

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

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First thing to try is some WD 40 on the lock mechanism on the machine. Plug off the wall first. A catch on the mechanism may not be working to indicate that the door is locked to the control panel.

Caution after wash wait for a click in lock area or wait for 3 minutes to open the door; do not force the door.

Posted on Jun 12, 2008

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  • prem mathew Mar 17, 2009

    Plug off the wall socket. Check whether the wires to the door are tight. After spraying the WD40 open & close the door a few times.

  • prem mathew Mar 17, 2009

    Plug off the wall socket. Check whether the wire connections to the door are tight. After spraying the WD40 open & close the door a few times.

  • prem mathew Mar 17, 2009

    Plug off the wall socket. Check whether the wire connections to the door are tight. After spraying the WD40 open & close the door a few times.


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Code F/DL - Door Will Not Lock
This is a very common problem with Whirlpool duet front-loading washers. The first thing you need to do is to make sure the door is closed all the way. Clear the code by clearing the control. Then restart the washer and shortly after you should hear clicks coming from the washer. This is the washer attempting to lock the door and will do so 6 times before displaying the code. After you hear the clicks, pull on the door to see if the door is locked or not.

If the door isn't locked remove the top off the washer. Once done you should see the main control or CCU as Whirlpool calls it. On that control you should see 10 plugs on the front lip of the control. Counting from left to right the sixth plug is the door solenoid plug. Make sure that plug is connected on the board good. Also make sure that plug 8 is connected well, in fact make sure all of them are connected but these are the ones that will cause this problem. After doing this clear the display and attempt to use the washer again. If the washer works after doing this I recommend using tie straps to hold the plugs in place. I do this by wrapping two tie straps around the entire control the long way so that one strap holds all the bottom plugs in and the other holds the top plugs in. Note that one tie strap typically isn't long enough to wrap around the control so you may have to connect two together. Also look down in the washer and make sure the wires on the door latch are plugged in good.

Once you are done plugging in the wires good try the washer again. If it still doesn't work you need to test ohms across the door lock solenoid coils. To check this, first disconnect power from the washer. Then disconnect the plug that connects to the solenoid coils which is the sixth plug from the left. The plug should have three wires. The wire on the far left is common. This means that both solenoid coils connect to that terminal. Using your ohmmeter, check ohms from the far left wire to each of the other wires. There should be approximately 60 ohms to each wire. If not, replace the door latch. If the coils check ok it is possible the door latch can still be the problem but it is likely the main control (CCU).

If the door is locking but you are still getting the F/DL code you need to check the door switches. To check this, disconnect the power from the washer. Then disconnect the plug that connects to the door switches, which is the eighth plug from the left. That plug has four wires. Check ohms between the two wires on the left and the two wires on the right. With the door locked the ohm reading should be near 0 ohms between each of the wires. Note that if the door isn't locked, clear the code and start the washer and as soon as the door locks unplug the washer. If one or both of the switches are open (electrically) replace the door lock. If the door is locking and both of the switches check good (pass the ohms test) replace the main control (CCU).

If the door wont unlock to get at the latch, take the bottom panel off with the 3 screws along the very bottom of the machine. You can pull on a manual release that is at the bottom of the door latch.

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