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If it's a Chinese gauge the rpm sense wire goes to the ground side of one coil, not the hot side. The red is hot and the green was ground on the Chinese gauge I bought. Do a search on the net under "Wiring Problem with Chinese Speedometer" several good articles on these gauges. The black was key hot and the red was memory constant hot on my gauges. If you reverse them whatever you program will disappear when you turn the key off. Other wires are the rpm sense and the inside light.
Constant 12V+: White - Ignition Switch Harness or Use Hot Side of Brake Switched 12V+: Black/Yellow - Ignition Switch Harness Ground: Use Chassis Near Cruise Control Module Hot Side of Brake: n/a - Brake Switch Cold Side of Brake: Green/White - Brake Switch Tach: Blue - Coil VSS Wire : n/a
Vehicles with Manual Transmission require Clutch Switch. Some vehicles may require a speed signal generator and/or other parts/adapters not listed above. Rostra® Cruise Control module switch settings may differ if you use a speed signal generator or magnets and a pick up coil.
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OK, There should not be a "Tan" wire there. It is probably the "Red" or "Orange" wire that has faded real bad and just looks tan. It goes on the same post as the large black battery cable. It should be a 10 gauge wire. The other end of that wire goes to the "BAT" terminal on the alternator. (in case you want to check and make sure) The smaller black wires should be ground wires, They will attach to the transmission housing. Usually, there is a special bolt with a stud made on the end of it and a nut that secures the wires. As you said, the purple wire goes to the small post on the starter solenoid.
There is a good possibility that NEITHER is "ground' except when the switch is pushed. Many automotive circuits are controlled on the ground side. This allows a single wire to be run to the remote switch.The switch body is attached to ground.
Use a 12V test light:
1) Attach the clip to battery ground, turn key to the run position (but don't start the engine) and probe both wires. If one lights it is constant hot. The other will only be ground when the switch is pressed.
2) Move the clip to battery POSITIVE and probe both wires. The one that lights is GROUND. If neither lights the one that did NOT light in step 1 is switched ground.
If you get a light in both conditions then the pump would run continuously.
You can repeat the above having an assistant hold the switch, one wire should light the light in both the steps. Step one finds the HOT wire, step 2 the ground.
You are replacing old switch-receptacle device. New device also has switch and receptacle. You want switch to control light, but not receptacle. You want receptacle 'hot' all the time.
You have 2 cables that enter box. Each cable has white, black and ground wires. Ground wires are twisted together and attached to green ground screws and not discussed more.
Screws on new device: Side 1 of device: New device has dark screw(s) or brass screws on one side ... these screws are connected together by brass plate. This side is the Hot side of device.
Side 2 of device: Other side has 2 separate and unconnected screws. These screws are not connected in any way. Each of the 2 disconnected screws sits opposite the switch and opposite the plug.
Cables. One cable comes from breaker box. This cable has a Hot and Neutral wire. The Hot is black. Neutral is white. The other cable goes to Load (light). Black supplies power to Load (light), and white connects to Neutral. If you are uncertain which is which, testing is shown below.
Connect the device: Side 1 of device: Black Hot goes to dark colored screw(s) that are connected by brass plate. (This is only wire connected to this side of device) Side 2 of device: Black that goes to Load (light) connects to screw that sits opposite the switch. Side 2 of device: White Neutral connects to screw that sits opposite the plug
One wire is left .. the white from light. This white wire connects to white Neutral wire. Since white neutral is already connected to device, look on back of device to see if there is a quick-connect hole for you to shove wire into back of device. If device doesn't have quick-connect, then twist white wires together, and add a short jumper wire to device, and then all the whites are connected to neutral. Circuit is complete.
How to test for Hot and Neutral Separate wires. Turn on power. Test each wire to bare ground. Tester lights up on hot wire. Now test hot wire to other wires. Tester lights up on neutral
1994 Cadillac Seville Car Audio Wiring Color Codes
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Gray/Black
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 5 1/4′
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6′ x 9′
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
i just got the wiring for the sony xe-mk90II eq, heres a picture :
top right is the ground , bottom right is constant power, blue is the remote turn on. if you have a old wire harness around you can pull out the blue ,yellow, and black wires with the metal clip on and make than fit right where the wires should go. but make sure u rap the metal clips with electrical tape so the wires dont touch or you will fry it.