Question about Ryobi 15" Electric Factory Reconditioned Trimmer (ZRRY41002) - Factory Reconditioned

4 Answers

Ryobi Electric string trimmer

I have a Ryobi (RY41002) electric string trimmer. The switch has gone bad. Does anyone know were I can buy a replacement.
The switch is a 10.5 amp 125 volt with the letters cRUus FA3-4 on it. Any help is greatly appreciated.
TJ

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  • Anonymous Dec 21, 2008

    Thanks so much! You guys just saved me 1/2 day of driving around looking for this part!

  • Anonymous Apr 22, 2009

    Need replacement switch made by Homelite(part UT41002A-36) used on Ryobi RY41002 15" string trimmer.

  • a2126r Apr 27, 2009







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    I also have a Ryobi electric string trimmer, it does not last more
    then 1.5 year; the entire time to failure is less than 20 hours. As an engineer
    I would be ashamed for such product. I wonder if there is a recall for this product.
    I will never buy anything from them.




  • Anonymous May 17, 2009

    Same thing. Less than three summers of use (I'd estimate less than five total hours on the motor), and the switch is dead.



    Now deciding whether to replace the switch or just junk the whole thing and swear off Ryobi forever.

  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2014

    how to string an electric trimmer model gh3000

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4 Answers

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TJ, I've had the same problem since yesterday and I found the solution (lots of googling - that's how I found your post BTW).
It turned out that the switch malfunction is a common problem.

The part number for the FA3-4 switch is:

ut41002a-36 ("switch assembly")

Available here (thru Amazon):
http://factorylawnandgarden.com/product/553902/B000PLVCX8/SWITCH_ASSEMBLY_UT41002A_36/

It's a Homelite part, which is identical to Ryobi.

Here is the manual showing it (part 6):
http://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/ryobi_tool/RY41002.pdf

Here is the thread with the solution:
http://www.ryobitools.com/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=112&topic_id=597&mesg_id=597&page=3

HTH,
Adi

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

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I decided to take the switch apart to see why it failed. In my switch the contact arm on one lead had gotten angled off a little so that when the switch engaged it was probably sparking and creating a little heat. The arm melted into the housing at an angle so that the housing then bound up and would not rotate to engage the contacts when the trigger was depressed. I think that the design is just a little too clever to be reliable over time. I expect this is probably the same problem in most other switch failures. Just wedge out the sides of the switch cover to clear the little tabs on the side and the whole top comes off. Then you will see the little teeter-tooter type arrangement inside. The parts are small so be careful to note how it all works before taking it apart so you can get it back together again. Hold the contacts down at the same level as if the top is on. You will see that the lever should push the contacts down when the trigger is depressed. My wouldn't go down because everything was cockeyed inside. Once I got the housing holding the contact arms lined up straight in the switch box, it started to rotate freely and the contacts would then move up and down.- John

Posted on May 16, 2010

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I have the same problem. There was a time when Ryobi actually had decent engineering and construction. Sadly, Ryobi is now just more Chinese junk. I will do the switch fix due to many ends, but will no longer buy new ryobi equipment.

Posted on Apr 12, 2010

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The switch on my reconditioned Ryobi went bad soon after I bought it. I replaced it with a simple on/off rocker switch and it has worked fine ever since.

Posted on Sep 19, 2010

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