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Replaced inlet valve 2 months ago,stopped pumping water to ice maker. line is clear. ice maker cycles ok otherwise.

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Open the cover to the icemaker pull it off the white plastic cap you will need an insulated peice of small wire to make a jumper stick one end into the "T" terminal hole and the other in th e"H" terminal hole the icemaker will cycle pull the jumper out after 10 secs of the start...watch the ejection fingers when they reach the 12 o'clock position you should get a fill for about 7 sec.

Posted on Jun 09, 2008

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Check for bad water valve again

Posted on Jun 09, 2008

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The ice maker in my Whirlpool Gold (Model GI6FDRXXY07) stopped making ice. I can get water from the door and can hear the ice maker cycling. It is calling for water but the flow valve is not opening.


The same valve that the water comes from except there are two halves to the valve. The valve you need is a=> Whirlpool Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve WPW10312696 The problem is with these models the ice maker tends to function a little causing you to believe it is OK when they are worn out. I can point you to a manual to see if the water valve works by going to page 18 HERE and use a jumper wire between test point L and the letter V. Make sure the wire is insulated so you don't get shocked. Otherwise the ice maker may need to be changed and it is less expensive than the water control valve Ice Maker=> HERE
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Aug 29, 2016 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Why is the bottom ice maker on my Samsung rfg298hdrs /xaa refrigerator not making ice?


ICE MAKER not making ice:

Inspect Water fill tube, Inspect the ice maker mold to see if there are ice cubes present. If there are no cubes or very small cubes, then you should look for issues with the water fill system. Inspect the fill tube and the fill cup area at the back of the ice maker to make sure that they are not frozen. If there is an ice buildup in that area, confirm no foreign objects have disrupted the flow of water into the fill cup. If nothing obvious has caused the ice buildup then suspect the inlet valve, tubing or low water pressure. Inspect the outlet tubing from the fill valve to the ice maker fill tube for any signs of restrictions and replace if necessary.

WATER INLET VALVE:

Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted.

The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.

(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.

Lastly the ICE MAKER ASSEMBLY:

If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes.

If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Also note that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.)
If you have a heat release or modular ice maker it will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points "T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest". On other ice makers jumper at points N & M (neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate.

This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced

On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently.
Testing a thermostat in a component ice maker:
The thermostat is located near the bottom ofthe support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires.Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove thethermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat whenit has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer).
If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity.Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes andretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity).
If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a readingof zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced.
Testing a modular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced.

Mar 10, 2015 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

No water no ice


Change the=> 67006531 Water Inlet Valve I believe the side of your 67006531 Water Inlet Valve that controls water flow to the ice maker has weakened and cannot open properly. Replace the water valves and I believe the ice maker will work fine, Sea Breeze


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Jun 07, 2012 | Whirlpool GX5FHTXVA Bottom Freezer French...

1 Answer

Hi, I have a Kenmore Elite Refrigerator model #596.76253702 that leaks water from the bottom every time the ice maker refills. The problem keeps getting worse since I purchased this product 2 years ago.


If it overfills and drips, look for an adjustment behind the plastic endcover with a +/- on it. - is less water.
If it continuously drips, replace the water inlet valve on the back where the house water supply comes in.


Ice maker water not stopping
The water inlet valve may be staying open. You can swap the wires on the dual water inlet valve and disconnect the water line at the valve which goes to the ice maker. When you try the water dispenser the water will come out there. When you stop the water dispenser, if the water at the valve doesn't stop, the valve isn't closing so you'll need to replace it. If it does stop after trying it several times then the problem is with the ice maker.

Aug 24, 2011 | Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...

3 Answers

Icemaker not working


The ice maker valve is a dual one. with 2 solenoids. One solenoid operates the water and the other the ice maker. So if the water works that don't mean the ice maker supply is ok. The ice maker itself controls the flow of water. So if the water valve is ok then the ice maker is faulty. I have repair photos HERE

Feb 14, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ice maker quit working on GE refrigerator


Sometimes on a ice maker what will happen is the water line that fills the ice maker will freeze. You can use a large syringe filled with hot water and from the rear of the frig remove the water line where the hose goes into the rear of the frig and force some hot water into the tube to see if it is clear.
If the line is clear fill the ice maker manually and see if it goes through a cycle.
If it goes through a cycle you have to check to see if the ice maker is calling for water by putting a multi meter across the contacts of the water inlet valve located behind the panel on the back of the frig. Advance the ice maker to run through a cycle and see if it is calling for water. If you have current going to the valve and no water momming in, replace the valve.
If you do not have current going to the valve after the ice maker has gone through a cycle. Replace the ice maker.

Dec 29, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

3 Answers

No water is coming into the ice maker


HI. First you will need to make sure the inlet tube, inside the unit is not frozen over. Once you have confirmed that the inlet tube is not frozen, this will lead to a spent water filter, or a failed water inlet valve assembly. If equipped, check the filters date. if it is more than 10 months old, it may need ot be replaced. An old, or fully used filter, will stop the continues flow of water, when it reaches its filtration limit.

Now, once you have confirmed that the lines and filter(if equipped), are not the issue, then move on to the water valve inspections.

WATER VALVE


The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush
or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

Oct 24, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

The ice maker stopped making ice. Any solutions?


A lot of filters ( not all ) do not even access the ice maker . Only the water dispensor . If your water dispensor is working fine , then you need to replace the dual water inlet valve behind the refrig . This is the piece the wall water line connects to . It is called a dual valve because there are 2 coils on the valve . 1 for the ice maker and 1 for the water dispensor .

Oct 23, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

3 Answers

Ice maker stopped making ice




Hi

If the ice maker has completely stopped producing ice then check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. For this you need to look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahrenheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary. If the ice maker is producing ice poorly i.e. if it produces just a few cubes or none, or when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged water line or a defective water inlet valve.

First, check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the water valve back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If the flow is good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve.


Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Aug 10, 2009 | Whirlpool Gold White-on-White 21.9 cu. ft....

1 Answer

Ice maker stopped


The water inlet valve is the control device that controls the flow of water to the ice maker, it is energized during the last few seconds of the harvest cycle. During these few seconds there should be 110v power to the water inlet valve, if there is power to the valve but the valve does not open to allow water to flow then the valve is defective and must be replaced if the valve does open it could be that the water supply line inlet tube has frozen solid this can be thawed with warm water or a hair dryer. The area of the tube vulnerable to freezing is where the water line enters the freezer section and connects to the water supply inlet of the ice maker.
Also there are obviously other reasons that it might have stopped such as a faulty harvest thermostat, your freezer is to warm and of course your shutoff arm in the off position, be sure to clear the simplest potential causes of the failure first.
Hope this helps.

Mar 15, 2008 | Refrigerators

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