Question about Kenmore Refrigerators
Lights are on but compressor and fan are not working. yesterday fan is working compressor is on for about 30 sec and off for 2 min then on again. they said i shound clean the coils after i cleaned it i turn it on compressor and fan are working after 1 min. both are not working only the lights are on . thermostat is set in the middle. anybody can give me an advice what to do. thank you very much
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kenmore 50222000 help me please
I can offer a suggestion. It sounds like you have a plugged defrost drain line. This is where the water goes to in the bottom of your freezer when it goes through the defrost (removal of ice from the freezer coil) cycle. It sounds like that hole is plugged and now the water/ice has now frozen in the vent that lets air circulate down into your refrigerator compartment. What I usually do in this case is to unplug the refrigerator, empty out the freezer compartment. Usually I also end up either pulling off the back panel or the bottom panel (in the freezer compartment) Looking for that defrost drain hole and thawing it out with a heat gun (be careful of melting plastic) or actually I use a hair dryer. I can sometimes do this also by pouring small amounts of HOT tap water onto it and then sopping/absorbing it away with a sponge or dishcloth. I repeat this until I get the water to go down the drain tube
Posted on Oct 19, 2007
The compressor is locked up. Basically it is stuck. You can pick up at the local appliance parts store a hard start relay, Home Depot ,Lowes, or or those guys wont have it. Its not too expensive and is worth trying because your only other option is you need to replace the compressor. The part is called a kick start or hard start, the guy at the parts store will know what you are talking about. It is simple to connect and has the wiring directions on it. Sometimes this is all it takes. I have been able to get a stuck compressor to go by placing a short 2x4 on it and whack it with a hammer a few times. This is only a temporary fix though, as it will eventually lock up again, but emergency situation this saved the food. If the fridge has a fan back there make sure it works too, it may have been the original cause. Good luck.
Posted on Dec 26, 2007
Ended up having a freon leak in tubing around door. Luckly the warranty was 5 years in sealed system. New one was FREE.
Posted on Feb 23, 2008
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
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