The answers I've received so far are too simplistic. The white and black leads of the power cord are disconnected(the green wire is attached to the ballast partition). Transformer wires H1 and H2 are twisted together, as are transformer wires H3 and H4. A maintenance person where I work told me the black power cord wire goes to H1 and H2, and the white power cord wire should be attached to H3 and H4. Is this correct? The two leads (white and black) from the 430 bulb socket are also disconnected. There is an orange cap on two wires--one black wire from the capacitor, and a transformer wire that has the letters CAP printed on it. Another black wire from the capacitor is twisted together ( but not capped) with a white lead from the ignitor that reads XZ COM. Which lead from the bulb socket is attached to these: the white or black? There are two other exposed wires that aren't twisted together. One is a red lead from the ignitor that reads XI LAMP, and another transformer wire that has the words LAMP stamped on it. Should these be twisted together, and if so, which colored lead from the bulb socket should I attach to them? Sincerely, Steve Sutcliffe 407-438-5186

It depends on what type of cord you are changing to. I think what you're describing as a sqaure black block is the terminal block.
If your new cord has four wires, should be black, white, red, and green. If this is the case, it goes like this:
Black to the far left screw (L2)
White to the middle screw (N)
Red to the far right (L1)
Green goes to the cabinet, usually behind a green screw.
If this is the case, you're changing from a 3 wire cord to a 4 wire cord, and your 3 wire cord is still connected; then behind the middle screw is probably a strap connected underneath it. When you change to the 4 wire cord, bend and push the strap up out of the way for future use if needed. It acts as the ground for the 3 wire cord.
With the 4 wire cord, the green mounted to the cabinet acts as the ground.

Now......
If i'm wrong with the above, and you're intalling a 3 wire cord; they could all be the same color (the wires). If so, just put....
The far left wire to the far left screw.
The middle wire to the middle screw with the strap attached to it.
the far right wire to the far right screw.

I hope this is helpful, and that I havent completely misunderstood you and wasted your time. I would be glad to help any further if you need it.
Thanks,

Mike

Hello,

Welcome to fixya.


It is fairly straight forward. The cord`s incorporate a line one, line two, a neutral and ground/earth.


Should be as follows, far left is RED, center is WHITE, and far right is BLACK. The GREEN or BARE wire goes to the cabinet where a screw should be present to attach to chassis.I`ve attached a photo to help guide you.




Hope that answer`s your question. Let me know if you require further assistance.

Thank`s for coming to "fixya" for your repair help. please take a second to rate the solution provided for you here today.

Thanks again and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Connect the red, black, and white wires of the new cord to where the red, black, and white wires of the original dryer wires are connected to but disconnect the ground wire (green/yellow wire attached to the cabinet) from where the white wire is connected to and connect it instead to the fourth green/yellow wire of the new cord.

In most cases your black and red wires will be the hot wires and the bare(green) or white will be your ground and grounding wires.

black far left
red far right
white middle
green goes to ground

Brown wire-Phone mute Yellow 3A-Bus power lead Yellow 15A-Memory backup lead Red-Power lead Blue/White-Amp lead Black-Ground Orange/White-Illumination lead Blue-Auto antennae SPEAKERS(black strip is -ive) gray+gray/black-front right white+white/black-front left purple+purple/black-rear right green+green/black-rear left

3-Prong or 4-Prong – The Difference:

3-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.

4-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO NOT ground to equipment frame.
GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to equipment frame.

Which One to Use: According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), Article 250, installations after the year 2000, require the use of a 4-prong plug which incorporates a separate ground and neutral wire. If you currently have a home that uses the 3-prong receptacle and cord, you can continue to use it. You will have to upgrade to a 4-prong configuration, however, if you plan on relocating your current receptacle, or if the internal wires of the receptacle become damaged in any way and require repair.

Converting from 3-prong to 4-prong: Make sure you UNPLUG the appliance prior to any repairs. CAUTION: Voltages dangerous to life are still present even with the appliance turned off and still plugged in. Notably in the area of the terminal block where the power cords are installed. You will need to remove the old cord by following these steps:

1. With the appliance UNPLUGGED, remove the access panel on the back of the unit where the power cord enters.
2. With the cover removed, you will see a terminal block where the power cord is attached. The terminal wires will be colored with the WHITE wire in the middle, and the BLACK and RED wires on either end. NOTE: There should be a green jumper wire or metal bonding strap attached to the NEUTRAL (white) terminal wire.
3. Remove the terminal lugs holding the old power cord wires in place. CAUTION: Use care not to drop any nuts or screws inside the appliance.
4. Remove the bonding strap or ground wire from the Neutral terminal lug. NOTE: If disconnecting a ground wire, make sure you re-attach it to the appliance frame.
5. Loosen the screws on the strain relief connector that holds the power cord in place and remove old power cord. NOTE: If your appliance does not have a strain relief that clamps down and hold the power cord in place, it is highly recommended that you install one. This prevents chaffing of the power cord against the appliance casing, and prevents the terminal wires from being pulled and broken loose. This could pose a potential shock hazard or cause damage to the appliance.
6. Install new power cord by threading it through the strain relief connector and tighten down the screws.
7. Connect the new power cord to the corresponding colors at the terminal block (Black goes to Black, Red goes to Red, White goes to White). The difference is going to be a Green (ground) wire that will connect to the appliance frame. There’s usually a green grounding screw for this. NOTE: If you disconnected a green grounding strap in Step 4., you can connect these two wires at the same point.
8. Re-install access cover. Turn off the service breaker to the appliance PRIOR to plugging it back in. With the breaker in the off position, plug the appliance in, and THEN turn the breaker on. In the event, something was wired incorrectly, it is far better to have your hands away from the receptacle and controlled from a distance. Safety first.

These steps will work for nearly all appliances that require a 220-240VAC power cord conversion. The power cords are usually rated at 250VAC, 30 amps, and are carried by any hardware store or appliance parts retailer.

ADDITIONAL NOTES:

1. If you desire to convert an appliance from a 4-prong to a 3-prong, make sure you reconnect the bonding strap and/or ground wire to the Neutral (white) wire at the terminal block.
2. On some newer appliances, it is REQUIRED that you use a 4-prong plug in order for the timer or clock circuits to function properly due to the way they are configured. Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct recommendation. Even if you currently have a 3-prong receptacle, you still may be required to upgrade to a 4-prong if you encounter this situation.
3. In many circumstances, new appliances are NOT sold with the power cord due to the various power configurations in homes. Always refer to the contents description on the shipping container the appliance comes with to see what additional items or tools may be required for installation.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

If you had a 3 wire system and need to adapt your drier to a 4 wire system.. here is how you do it.. Your 4 wire cord should have the following colored wire ends.. Red, Black, White and Green.. The red and black are the power leads and should be attached to the red and black terminals on the back of the drier.. The White wire is Neutral and should be terminated on the white terminal of the drier.. The green wire is Ground and should be attached to the nearest frame or chassis screw at the point of entry into the drier.. If you are using a metal cable clamp as part of a feedthru system to get the cord into the drier.. you can attach the green wire to one of the screws on that.. but that should be done only if you canot find a suitable frame ground screw near the terminal block.. Hope this helps...

You will have 3 or possibly 4 wires coming out of the oven Red and Black go to the hot leads in the junction box.Usually red & black but could be 2 black. White goes to white Bare/green go to the white if no Bare/Green available. This is for a wall oven. If the stove is free standing and you want to attach a cord. Just buy the cord that matches the outlet in your house. Make sure it is a range cord and not a dryer cord. They are very similar. If a 3 conductor cord (most common) outer two terminals are the hot ones. There is a wire or metal strap between the frame of the range and the center (neutral )terminal . On a 3 conductor cord leave this connected. On a 4 conductor cord remove this wire and connect it to the green/bare wire in the cord. There may be a vacant terminal on the block for this purpose. If not use a wire nut.