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There is a pin on the tapered spindle that fits into a grove in the mixer. If the attachment is not pushed far enough into the mixer housing and screw is not locked down the attachment will spin. It is possable that ihe pin on the attachmen t is sheared off.
need clarification. what does cut out mean? The motor stops altogether? The beaters stop spinning but you still get motor sounds? It comes on and goes completely off while in use and then comes back on. is there ever a bad smell or smoke? Are there any unusual sounds that you hear before it does a cut out or after it comes back on? Does it ever go up or down in speed on it's own. do the attachment gears on top spin while you are mixing in the bowl? we need to narrow the field of questions down to get to the right repair path. Please let us know.
Tll, It sounds like it could be an issue with the gear, the motor housing could have a crack in it. The problem could be much more involved as well. Put the unit on the slowest speed and see if you can stop the mixer from spinning. If it hiccups or stutters, that means you have a stripped gear. If you cannot stop the unit using your hand ON THE SLOWEST speed then there could be a problem with the motor housing or the motor itself not being held in place properly.
My fantastic guy just rebuilt my A200. He says it's likely that your back plate is slightly off center so that the center arbor is touching the windings-- any contact and the machine won't run. The tolerances are thousandths of an inch in there.
First, does the housing for the beaters spin when the beaters are not in place? If so, then there may have been a stripping of the cogs in the housing. If this the case, you definitely need to buy a new mixer. If the housing for the beaters does NOT spin period, then there is no question that you do need to buy another mixer.
the spinning plate under the bowl does not have any power to spin the bowl; it only aks as a "lazy susan" carousel that allows the bowl to turn from the movement of the material being wipped in the bowl.
the beaters are purposely off-center of the bowl in ordwer to create a dragging motion of the material in the bowl, thus pulling (that is, spinning) the bowl slowly. If the beaters are not off to the side of the bowl, you will not get the pulling/spinning motion. Also, if the plate under the bowl does not move very easily, then the bowl will not spin. You may have to remove the spin plate and clean the center pivot for the plate to move freely. Good Luck, Macgivor.
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
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There are 2 possibilities, the attachments are worn out where they go on the shaft, simply replacing them could fix it, the other is the shaft is worn out inside the planetary ( where it spins), if it moves allot, 1/8 " or more from side to side, the housing is probably worn, and the planetary needs to be replaced, easy job, don't know cost, a new mixer may be in order.
The speed control is a governor setup, it's purely on and off, as the weights on the motor shaft spin faster, they press against the contacts, and when they spin a fast enough speed, it turns off current to the motor, which makes it slow down, and current gets turned back on. That way, you get a pretty consistent speed on a setting no matter whether it's lightly loaded or whipping something fairly heavy. If you can turn the motor shaft by hand, then you don't have anything binding, but you might have gotten the speed control out of adjustment. give it another go.