Question about RCA HDLP50W151 50" Rear Projection HDTV

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Hd50lpw175x7 Hey, It's not the power board. Replaced power board with new one still has the same symptoms. Do you think it could be the ballast? How can I check my old ballast to know for sure? Joyce

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Ballast Verification Process
1. Short out door switch (SP001)
2. Apply AC power and wait till DM module boots
3. Press power switch and observe spark gap on ballast
4. If spark gap arcs, suspect Lamp. If color wheel starts but ballast won’t strike
lamp, go to next step.
5. Measure BP252 on AC IN CBA for +300Vdc. If missing check door switch, cable
from AC IN CBA to switch and AC IN PCB. If correct go to next step.
6. Monitor pin 2 of BT251 for Ballast ON command from Light Engine. If present
suspect Ballast. If missing suspect Light Engine. Pin 5 of BT251 starts at 3.3V
after power switch is pressed and drops to .18V when the Light Engine sends the
start command. No change on pin 5 indicates Light Engine is suspect, change
on pin 5 with no ballast start, ballast is suspect.

Note: Lamp may arc but not start. Pin 5 of BT251 is "LAMP LIT" and goes to 1.48V
when lamp is lit. If ballast strikes lamp but lamp won’t stay lit, suspect Lamp.

Posted on Jun 09, 2008

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WD- 60738 Just replaced bulb Sept 9, 2011 Unit turns on green flashing timer light, No statis Light, no lamp light. I can hear audio but bulb does not come on. After a few minutes unit shutsdown. The buld...


Hi W Bloom,


First of all, thank you for contacting Fixya.com regarding your TV problem.


My first advice is to do system reset by pressing the "Power" button key at the front panel and hold it for 10 secs.


Please check also if you can access the "Error Code Log" by pressing the "Menu" "3" "5" "6" "4" in sequence before the unit gone to shutdown.


You've mentioned that the bulb has been replaced just last Sept and now it won't come on. The lamp can't be test using the multimeter but you can make a visual inspection to determine its condition. Most of the faulty lamp has an obvious burnt mark. There's a possibility that the symptoms is caused by busted lamp but in your case, if it is a genuine lamp replacement, then high chance that the fault is not the bulb.


You need to check the ballast board but not the high voltage output of it feeding the lamp. No voltage coming out from the power supply board to the ballast board can produced the same symptoms. You have to check the this voltage at connector CJ1, you must get 325V to 340V. Check also the lamp enable at connector CJ3(pin 4) you must get a low voltage upon turning on the set to confirmed that the mainboard giving a signal.


If there's no voltage at CJ1, then the fault is on the power supply board.

If the readings are normal, and still the ballast won't ignite (you can hear a slight snap sound when the ballast board trying to ignite), then you have to replaced it.


Click the link below to order online.


http://bigtvsale.blogge.rs/2011/05/31/discount-replacement-mitsubishi-oem-pwb-ballast-938p178010/


http://www.shopjimmy.com/mitsubishi-938p178010-lamp-ballast.htm


Please let me know if you need further assistance.


Good luck and take care!


Kind Regards,


Mjsazon

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Hi,

3 blinking led light at the front panel is an error code for lamp malfunction. If you've already replaced the bulb and yet the symptoms remain the same, then high chance that the fault came from the ballast board because the supply voltage is present.

Confirm if the bulb will lit upon powering on the unit. Open the lamp cover, bypass the lamp cover switch by putting tape to make it in closed position (making it still the lamp cover is attached to the housing) and then power on the unit. Check if the bulb will ignite or will light up, if not, you have to replaced the ballast board.

Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.

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hey there it sounds like the problem is coming from your ballast board, the ballast board is the power source to the lamp. with time this part starts to wear out and get weak your old lamp is already burning out there for it does not need that much voltage to turn on but the new lamp has not been worn out or used there for it needs the ballast to be working at 100%

hope this solution helps

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Good luck with that.... But if you really want to try,... look at where the bulb makes electrical connection when it is plugged into the set. You should see two thick wires leaving a connector and going to a circuit board. this board is the ballast. You'll have to disassemble until you can get the board along with the wires and connector.

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Mitsubishi WD-65733 no picture, electrical buzzes in series


What it sound's like is that the lamp ballast is the problem. Buzzing sounds like when the power is first brought to the ballast it has to ramp up the voltage to get the lamp to light, then the voltage drops back down when the lamp is lit. Sounds like the lamp ballast isn't ramping up the voltage the way it should. May have to replace it. A good service shop would be able to do this for you.
Blessings,
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1 Answer

Hd50lpw175x7


it should either be secured with screws or plastic clips that need to be pressed in to release the board

Jun 04, 2008 | RCA HDLP50W151 50" Rear Projection HDTV

1 Answer

Hplpw175x7


I would try the power supply first as the ATC336 has a history of the bad power supply boards.If the power supply doesnt fix it then I would think it may possibly be the ballast

May 30, 2008 | RCA HDLP50W151 50" Rear Projection HDTV

1 Answer

Hd50lpw175x7


The power supply is what provides all the standbye voltages that get routed to the various other boards. The capacitors have to be unsolderd and the replacements solderd in.

May 29, 2008 | RCA HDLP50W151 50" Rear Projection HDTV

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