Question about Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer
I have tested all the basic, power from panel, change outlet and check the power at the main controller and yes I can measure 118 V. But "pickel" does not provide electronic diagram ... so I open the controller to see for obvious fuse and no fuse. So I am stuck and I am asking the expert before I call the service man and charge me arm/leg to replace panel. I now really questioned the quality of this product.
The fuse is built onto the control board. It is not designed to be replaced. My 3 year old machine lost the water pump and blew the fuse. About $375 to fix. I am buying the new pump and will attempt to replace the fuse on the board. I hope there are no other bad components.
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
My 4 yr old f/p will not turn on...no lights, no sounds...nothing. I changed out the Pump drain motor because somehow water dripped on it and it burnt out. Seems like alot of people with the same problems. F/P should fix all these same ocurances for free. A high quality machine should not do this. This reminds me of Acura MDX's with bad transmission problems. Everyone had problems but they won't warrant for over 100,000 miles. Mine went out at 105,000 miles and they **** big time.
Just like f/p does.
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
Ouch, too bad. Ours just did the same thing. It's seven years old now, and has already had a couple service trips. Seems like it's time for a front-loader.
Posted on Jul 22, 2008
Turns out this problem is common to the GWL11. The water-pump goes out which then causes the circuit board to fry. It's unclear as to why one begets the other. Cost for a repairman: $272.00 in sw MO. The good news is that F&P has re-dsigned the waterpump to eliminate the early failure issue. Bad news is that it doesn't interchange with the GWL11 :(
Posted on Jul 04, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Hello friend, thank you for your inquiry!
Based off the information from your manufacturer "E56" stands for high motor current. Looking up information for your technical data sheet it states that you need to perform test 9:
1. Remove the belt from the motor and spin the motor pulley.
Does the motor spin free? No, replace the motor. Yes, go to step (3).
2. Spin the tub pulley. Does the tub spin free? No, check the tub bearings. Yes, go to step (3).
3. Disconnect the plug from the motor and measure the resistance of the windings (pin 1 to 2, pin 1 to 3, pin 2 to 3). All readings should be between 4 and 6 ohms. If readings are correct, replace the Speed Control Board. If readings are incorrect, replace the motor.
Based off that information you would need to replace your motor. If you feel unsure about repairs I would recommend reaching out to a professional for proper diagnosis and repair. I hope this helps. -Matt
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