Question about Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

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Fisher & paykel gwl11 power does not come up.

OK,

I have tested all the basic, power from panel, change outlet and check the power at the main controller and yes I can measure 118 V. But "pickel" does not provide electronic diagram ... so I open the controller to see for obvious fuse and no fuse. So I am stuck and I am asking the expert before I call the service man and charge me arm/leg to replace panel. I now really questioned the quality of this product.

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  • tmb1226 Jun 24, 2008

    I filled wash machine and came back a few hours later to a washer full of clothes and water. No power at all. I checked fuses, and the outlet is good.

  • tguinnmo
    tguinnmo Jun 25, 2008

    2- 1/2 yr old gwl11 stopped in middle of spin cycle. outlet is good & cord looks like new still. repairman ($$$) will be out in two days to fix (hopefully)...

  • KWheel Jun 28, 2008

    Same problem - washer stopped in middle of washing. Now does not seem to have any power although power applied measures fine. Can't find a fuse so will have to call repair service for 3 time in 1.5 yrs. They always come and fix it but I'm getting tired of requiring it. Surely there is a fuse somewhere?

  • Anonymous Jul 02, 2008

    I was setting up my F&P GWL11 to wash when it stopped responding. I think a voltage spike got it. It will not turn on even after unplugging it for several minutes, as per instructions. It will be more than two weeks before I can get it serviced. I have liked my F&P very much (about three years), but the lack of service in a reasonable time and the high cost of repair parts are causing me to reconsider the practicality of this machine. I would consider replacing the control module myself but I have only found one place to get it for $342.00, a major portion of the cost of the machine. I still have hopes that this could work well if I use a good surge protector.

  • ualani Aug 14, 2008

    Same washer GWL11 and appliance repair friend of mine said there id not a seperate fuse for washer. Fuse is built-in to the control board. Have not got a cost for new board yet though I may look at board a little closer to see where in board fuse protection is. If possible I may unsoder and replace with one from radio shack. Washer is just under 3 years old.

  • Anonymous Sep 01, 2008

    Washer shut off in the middle of a cycle and will not power up. Water on floor. Pull plug and tested power to outlet. Power is good.

  • Anonymous Mar 08, 2009

    My machine is under 4 years old and I have the same problem. Machine filled up and did not advance. Would not power up. All my other machines lasted a minimum of 15 years. I'm going back to a "real machine".

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2009

    I had the same problem with the GWL11... Cheap water pump seal went... got motor wet... and shorted out the 3amp fuse on the board... (Fisher Paykel want $50 for the service manual, which really irritated...) Ordered new pump... replaced fuse on board with a car stereo fuse... Thsi worked fine for a while, the the fuse started blowing half way thru the spin cycle... We have been replacing the fuse as nec. until I get a chance to investigate further.

  • cdrstang Mar 24, 2009

    My GWL 11 had been making an intemitten loud noise for months. We had a repairman and it did not make a noise when he came. The machine continued to make the noise at random times until the other day when it did not drain and will not power on. Does the control board and drain pump both need to be replaced? I tried to contact Fisher & Paykel with no response.

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4 Answers

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The fuse is built onto the control board. It is not designed to be replaced. My 3 year old machine lost the water pump and blew the fuse. About $375 to fix. I am buying the new pump and will attempt to replace the fuse on the board. I hope there are no other bad components.

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

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My 4 yr old f/p will not turn on...no lights, no sounds...nothing. I changed out the Pump drain motor because somehow water dripped on it and it burnt out. Seems like alot of people with the same problems. F/P should fix all these same ocurances for free. A high quality machine should not do this. This reminds me of Acura MDX's with bad transmission problems. Everyone had problems but they won't warrant for over 100,000 miles. Mine went out at 105,000 miles and they **** big time.
Just like f/p does.

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

Ouch, too bad. Ours just did the same thing. It's seven years old now, and has already had a couple service trips. Seems like it's time for a front-loader.

Posted on Jul 22, 2008

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Turns out this problem is common to the GWL11. The water-pump goes out which then causes the circuit board to fry. It's unclear as to why one begets the other. Cost for a repairman: $272.00 in sw MO. The good news is that F&P has re-dsigned the waterpump to eliminate the early failure issue. Bad news is that it doesn't interchange with the GWL11 :(

Posted on Jul 04, 2008

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Hello friend, thank you for your inquiry!

Based off the information from your manufacturer "E56" stands for high motor current. Looking up information for your technical data sheet it states that you need to perform test 9:

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Thank you for providing detail in your question and typing in coherent sentences, you are the first person today!

As you have checked basically everything the best option is to get a quote for a fixed price repair. You may well have a faulty control module, these are expensive to replace and require specialist tools to program the replacement.

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Lg wf 760


please follow the steps and fix it. God bless you
her won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.
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Timer

If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.





Line Fuse

If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.





Thermal Fuse

If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.





Line Fuse and Holder

If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.





Main Control Board

If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.





Door or Lid Latch Assembly

If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.





Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly

If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.





Incoming Power Problem

If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.


Power Cord

If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.

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AEG Lavamat Turbo 12710 update. Machine is AEG Lavamat Turbo 12710 update. Machine is refusing to start on any program. I set program. Instrument panel lights up as expected. Time indicator starts t


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If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.

If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.

If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.

If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.

If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.

If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.

If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design

If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.

If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.
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When you push start button nothing happens


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
User Control and Display Board If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.

Timer If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.

Line Fuse If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.
Thermal Fuse If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.

Line Fuse and Holder If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.

Main Control Board If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Incoming Power Problem If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.

Power Cord If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.

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2 Answers

GE Model WCVH6800J Error Code 04. I do not have list of codes for this model, so I need translation.


TROUBLESHOOTING CHART
Codes Description Action
------------------------------------------------------------------
22,23 Fill problems
• Ensure manual water valves are fully open.
• Check if water strainers on solenoid valve assembly are clogged.
• Check for obstructions inside inlet water hoses.
• Ensure solenoid valves do not leak when the valves are de-energized and the washer is powered down. • Measure coil resistance for both valves; if outside range (1000-1250 ohms at room temp.), replace solenoid valve
assembly.
IF ABOVE STEPS DO NOT CLEAR THE PROBLEM, OR FOR ERROR CODE 23:
• Replace solenoid valve assembly.
------------------------------------------------------------------
30, 31 Drain problems
• Ensure pump strainer is clean and free of debris.
• Check for obstruction inside the drain hose.
• Check pump impeller blades and bearing; if evidence of blade damage or seized bearings are present, replace the pump.
• Check electrical connections at the pump motor and harness.
• Measure pump motor resistance; if outside range (9-14 ohms at room temp.), replace the pump.
------------------------------------------------------------------
38,39 Dispenser problems
• Check for obstruction in dispenser mechanism and linkages.
• Check electrical connections at dispenser motor feedback switch and in the harness.
IF ABOVE STEPS DO NOT CLEAR THE PROBLEM:
• Replace dispenser motor assembly.
------------------------------------------------------------------
42,45, 49 Motor Drive operation above design limits
• Ensure all 4 shipping bolts have been properly removed.
• Remove all foreign objects that may be lodged between inner and outer basket.
• Look for signs of seized bearing(s) on basket and drum motor, replace components as necessary.
• Inspect condition and mounting of door gasket, replace and re-mount as necessary.
• Ensure inner basket (drum) can rotate freely.
IF ABOVE STEPS DO NOT CLEAR THE PROBLEM:
• Replace motor drive or drum motor.
------------------------------------------------------------------
43,4A, 4B,4C, Motor Drive internal problems
4E,4F, 50,52,
53,54

• Measure AC outlet voltage, ensure correct range (102V to 132V AC).
• Check electrical connections at the drum motor, motor drive.
• Check harness integrity between main control and motor drive.
• Unplug the unit, wait 30 seconds, restart the unit.
• If the fault persists and re-appears -replace the motor drive.
problems
------------------------------------------------------------------
57,58,71 Main Control internal problems
• Unplug the unit, wait 30 seconds, re-start the unit.
• If the fault persists and re-appears -replace the main control.
------------------------------------------------------------------
60,61,63,64, DOOR LOCK assembly problems
• Check integrity of wiring and connections between main control and DOOR LOCK mechanism.
• Investigate DOOR-LOCK mechanism, check door microswitch operation, lock and unlock solenoid continuity, contact integrity;
replace DOOR LOCK mechanism if necessary.
IF ABOVE STEPS DO NOT CLEAR THE PROBLEM:
• Replace the main control.
------------------------------------------------------------------
65 Water Level Sensor problems
• Check integrity of wiring and connections between main control and Water Level Sensor.
• Check integrity of Water Level Sensor, replace if necessary.
IF ABOVE STEPS DO NOT CLEAR THE PROBLEM:
• Replace the main control.
------------------------------------------------------------------
66,67 Water Temperature Sensor problems
• Check integrity of wiring and connections between main control and HeaterfThermistor Assembly.
• Using ohmmeter, measure Thermistor resistance; if outside expected range, replace HeaterfThermistor Assembly.
IF ABOVE STEPS DO NOT CLEAR THE PROBLEM:
• Replace the main control.
------------------------------------------------------------------
70 "Stuck" key
• Press each key. There should be mechanical "click" feedback with every press.
• Enter Service mode, use 104 test to check key operation. Press every key. Every keypress should generate audible
"beep." Press "Power" key last to avoid premature exit from t04 test.
• Separate control and control housing from the front panel; clean and remove all foreign matter and debris from keys,
front panel and control housing, re-assemble. Ensure all keys can be operated freely without "sticking."
IF ABOVE STEP DOES NOT CLEAR THE PROBLEM:
• Replace the main control.
------------------------------------------------------------------
62 System Contact Failure
• Check integrity of wiring and connections, look for insulation breakdown and short circuit conditions on the harness, replace
harness if necessary.
• Check integrity and electrical connections of all loads (heater, pump, pressure switch, door lock, solenoid valves,
dispenser motor), replace respective components if necessary.
IF ABOVE STEPS DO NOT CLEAR THE PROBLEM:
• Replace the main control.

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1 Answer

It wont switch on


Please try and check the mains outlet for the power. Next you can trace the continuity of the wire from the plug to the main control panel. Assuming this has an electronic panel there is a power supply within and must be checked to supply the low power to the processor control circuit. if absent check the power supply. If present check the processor and allied circuits or the controller board is faulty.

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1 Answer

After an storm a surge protecter fried and melted. My top loader Fisher &; Paykel Washer, Model # GWL15 US won't turn on, nothing. It seems the mother board fried.Can I resolve this and fix it myself?...


Hi just read your posting.Unfortunately your motor controller is dead.Yes you can change it yourself and I will guide you throe it. 1st-- Ring your local Fisher and Paykel parts distributor and get the price of a new or reconditioned motor controller.Also check your power outlet with a small appliance such as a toaster to be sure there is power to your machine.Now open the top panel of your machine by removing the top 2 screws located at the top of the panel at the back.Once you have removed the top panel see if you can detect any burning smell near the controller.Now, I am sure with the information you supplied in your posting your controller is dead but it to be sure it might be wise to get the controller tested just in case.The reason for this is because the controller will not be cheap.Ask your local parts distributor if they can test your controller for you.Please reply and tell me how you got on or for further help or information.

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1 Answer

Machine fills but does not do anything else. Fuse is ok


If the fuse is OK, check the power cord or the outlet.If it's still OK, then the problem persist on the main motor, you can replace the capacitor to fix this problems.

If still won't work, there's something happen with the control panel, maybe it burned because of waters.

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1 Answer

Kenmore oasis he top loader shows LD error code. got back panel off, now what?


Long Drain Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on. • Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged? • Is the drain hose height greater than 96˝ ? • Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.
TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate. 1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 2. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies. 3. Visually check that the P4 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, go to step 4. If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1. 4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1. If resistance values are good, go to step 7. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor control and the motor. Go to step 5. 5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the pumps 6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the pump motor. If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/ motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness. If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump. 7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Manual: Pump test.

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