It happened after multiple short time electrical outages in the evening. On the next day we disclosured the temperature in the freezer about 30 degrees F,and outskirting parts of the freezer hot ~ 80-90 degrees F on the right side outside and between freezer and refrigerator. It looks like refrigerator works fine.
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The first and simplest cause of unstable temperature readings occurs whenever people open the door, which almost immediately causes a change in your refrigerator/freezer's internal temperature. In this case, the temperature recorded by the electronic monitoring system is often comparable to a conventional thermometer located in the cabinet. What personnel often don't realize is that typical mercury thermometers have response times measured in minutes, meaning that it can take 5-10 minutes for the temperature shown on the thermometer to stabilize at the new value after a rapid temperature change.
A second source of temperature variation arises from the normal cycling of the compressor used to cool the refrigerator/freezer. Again, if the temperature displayed by your thermometer is being compared to the temperature reported by your electronic monitoring system, the response time of the thermometer may be masking the actual temperature fluctuations in the cabinet.
The final cause is due to electrical noise in the temperature monitoring system. This can often be identified from the temperature data in the form of random jumps in temperature from 0.5 to 5 degrees or more happening over a very short time period (such as seconds). The most common cause of electrical noise is the placement of wires from the sensor.
Check the cabinet temperature with an independent thermometer. If it is does keep a stable temperature the problem would probably be electronic.
A power outage is often accompanied by a voltage surge. Sensitive electronics and computers can be damaged by a voltage surge. People are used to protecting personal computers with surge protectors but fail to realise these days almost everything is a computer or contains a computer. Radios and tv sets are computers and so are cars and even the humble toaster these days has some computing power.
Today almost everything but the cheapest of appliances should be protected. A minimum surge protection can be obtained by using an area surge protector.
Hello Wayne, thank you for allowing me to assist you. Was the freezer unplugged during the power outage? If
it was, here are some simple troubleshooting steps you need to take:
It is best to unplug the unit
and wait for the power to come back on.
Next, turn the control to off
(or digital display), plug the unit in and reset control to factory-suggested
Do not open freezer door
unnecessarily if freezer is off for several hours. Make sure the refrigerator
plug is tightly pushed into electrical outlet and not plugged into a GFI.
If your unit
has no power and it is not due to a power outage, check the following:
Verify that the temperature
control is set to the OFF position.
Set temperature controls to
proper setting suggested by your owner's guide; or set to the halfway point and
adjust it up or down as needed.
basic troubleshooting tips prove ineffective, the power loss may have possibly
caused a communication problem with the control board, temperature control or
wiring harness. At this point, I would recommend having a service technician to
diagnose the problem before investing in unnecessary parts.
Many residential refrigerator / freezers are designed to work at temperature considerably above above freezing. Most modern refrigerator / freezer have a single electric thermostat - located in the fresh food compartment. This lone thermostat will control the compressor to keep the fridge (fresh food) section at the desired temperature (usually between 34 - 38 degrees F). The freezer will get colder regardless of how cold it is already whenever the fridge thermostat turns the compressor on.
Now that you see how the thermostat works, let's look at what happens when the fridge is placed in an unheated space - like a garage. In winter time, the temperature can drop considerably below 38 degrees. If the outdoor temperature remains cold enough, for long enough - it will affect the thermostat in the fridge. The temperature inside the fridge could drop below 38 degrees, preventing the thermostat from telling the compressor to turn on. Meanwhile, the temperature in the freezer compartment slowly rises from the normal -10 to 0 F degrees. It will continue to rise until it is the same temperature as the fresh food compartment or until the thermostat in the fresh food compartment tells the compressor to turn on again. This means the freezer contents will thaw.
If the temperature in the garage is even in the 40 to 50 degree range, the loss of cold in the fridge may not happen often enough to keep the compressor coming on often enough to keep some freezer items frozen solid - such as ice cream. Remember, water freezes at 32 degrees F, other products may require lower temperatures to remain frozen, and could thaw at 28 or other temperature.
Hi Cordelia - One or more component(s) of the defrost circuit has failed. The three main components are the: 1) defrost heater, 2) defrost terminator and 3) defrost timer.
Items 1 & 2 are located on or under the freezer coil itself. Item 3 can be located anywhere - popular spots are behind the toe space bezel and in the temperature control compartment. All of these parts vary in size, shape, and location by manufacturer and model fridge.
The defrost heater is a heating element positioned under or near the freezer coil in such away that the heat will melt frost build up before it can turn into a solid block of ice. It is powered by the timer (two or 3 times a day for 20 or thirty minutes or so) through the defrost terminator.
The defrost terminator is a simple temperature sensor that is often physically clipped to the freezer coil. It opens / closes at a specific temperature - often about 45 - 50 degrees F. If the temperature is below this point, it is cold and closed. When the timer sends power to the defrost element, electricity is passed through the terminator and the element heats up. Power is available for the 20 - 30 minutes determined by the timer. When the time runs out - power is shut off. Likewise, if the temperature reaches 45 - 50 degrees, the terminator senses this and opens - interrupting the electricity to the element.
You'll need to verify that the heating element is not damaged or "blown", that the defrost terminator hasn't become "stuck" in the open position, that the timer still runs and the contacts haven't fused together in the cooling mode.
The last thing to check is the wiring. This is seldom the problem - but can happen. Wires never fail between connections - unless they have been damaged. A failure almost always happens at a connection point - at a connector, terminal, etc. Make sure connections are tight.
Always work on the fridge with it UNPLUGGED! Never use sharp objects to chip ice as you may damage refrigerant lines and allow refrigerant to escape. Refrigerant can cause instant frostbite to skin - and blindness if it sprays into you eyes.
it depends on how severe the power spike on the outage was,if your lucky it may just be the contactor,if not comp time,you can open the contactor case and manually start the compressor,use an insulated non-metallic device to do so
The GE Profile Refrigerator has circuit boards and sensors are in the freezer that sends a signal to the circuit board to begin and end the defrost cycle. It is very possible the sensor or the circuit board are defective and will need replaced. I will help you solve this if you like. This refrigerator is complex and will take more discussion with you to complete the repair, I am here to help, let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze