This unit was purchased about 2 years ago, put in the attic storage area and brought out for 'service' last week.
When it is plugged in, sparks were seen coming from one of the prongs on the power cord. hmmmm...perhaps direct short to ground....????
Took back off the unit and checked the continuity of the power cord....not direct shorts in the cord leading to the unit.
Check the continuity of the black incoming 110 AC line to chassis ground...direct short....traced this to the 35 uf capacitor...hmmmm...perhaps found the problem.
Putting the unit back together I noticed the incoming power cord had 3 wires: white, black and green. They were connected to the following terminals on the unit chasis: white>> ('L')white; black>>> ('N')blue; green>>>the ground symbol.
I then looked at the circuit diagram on the rear of the unit and it shows that the white wire from the power cord should be connected to the 'L' (line) terminal on the unit chassis; the black line from the power cord should be connected to the 'N' (neutral) terminal on the unit chassis; and the green wire from the power cord should be connected to the 'ground' symbol terminal on the unit chassis.
This seems odd, since the unit came hard wired that way, I assumed it was correct.
However, the power cord black wire is the house system 'hot' wire'; the white wire on the power cord is the system neutral; and the green wire of the power cord is the system ground.
Am I missing something here? Has the unit been wired incorrectly? Is the circuit diagram wrong? Surely, someone would have picked this up by now.
Why would Maytag design a circuit and reverse the wiring convention?
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Re: Unit trips circuit breaker when plugged in
On AC current it really makes no difference to the operation of the unit which terminal the wires are connected to as long as the circuit is completed. A reason for the inverted wiring is that there will be a resistance between the hot wire and the control circuit. It makes for a reduced load on the contacts and switches minimizing arching.
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Hi, I have never in my 33 years heard of a a/c unit shutting down because of a plugged condensation line? This had to shut off for some other reason?? Anyway, you will have a main breaker where your electric meter is and all of your other breakers are to your home. It is either a 20 or 30 amp double pole breaker. Look to see if it has tripped. Also, at the outdoor unit, there will be a disconnect box that should have 2- fuses inside. If when you pull the plug out, and you don't see them, remove the plastic cover as they will be behind it if this is your set-up. Most have them, a few do not. And least but not last, start with the indoor unit,by removing the cover to expose the circuit control board. You will have a small 3 to 5 amp plug in fuse, the auto type to see if it may have blown. If no fuse there, you can remove the electrical panel to the outdoor unit last and look for a circuit board there for a 3 to 5 amp control fuse. They rarely put them there, but it is possible. If your indoor unit is in the basement, they will some times install a condensate pump to pump the water to the out side of the home. This is maybe your situation and blew the fuse in the air handler, this 3 to 5 amp fuse I am talking about.You will find it just look for a circuit board as the fuse is there to protect the transformer and main control board if there is a low voltage short some place in the system. Keep me posted on the outcome and check all of these places. Please don't forget to rate me as I know you will be kind. I have all of your information for future use in case you need any help, or for this problem. You can use my user name below to comment to me. I know you will find and get this unit going. Sincerely, Shastalaker7 A/C, Heating,
Check the breaker for the unit or check to see if the disconnect by the unit in the attic has fuses that may be blown.
If the breaker is tripped or the fuses blown, then check to see what caused them to blow...
A circuit breaker 'tripping' everytime the AC unit kicks on 'most always' indicates a direct short (somewhere in the condensing unit), although it is possible that the breaker itself is bad - (but not likely).
Usually the cause of this 'short' will be - either the condenser motor in the condensing unit (outside unit) or the compressor - also in the condensing unit.
If you're mechanically inclined - and "very careful" around electricity - there is a fairly simple way to find out which component is causing the short.
Step 1 - Make sure the condensing unit (outside unit) is completely disconnected (electrically) , i.e. pull the fuses/turn off circuit breaker on outside unit and turn off thermostat.
Step 2 - disconnect the condenser motor (this is the outside fan motor). Note: when you disconnect the wires of the condenser motor "be sure" you mark/write their location, and wrap them in electric tape.
Step 3 - start the AC unit. If the breaker trips again you can pretty much rest assured it's the compressor that is shorted.
To prove it (without a doubt) - go to next step.
Step 4 - "be sure circuit breaker and thermostat is turned off" - and - 'reconnect' the condenser motor - and - then disconnect the compressor wires (mark wires and tape them).
Step 5 - Start AC.
If breaker doesn't trip - you know it's the compressor that is shorted.
If breaker 'does' trip again - then it's possible the breaker itself is bad (not likely) or there is a 'short' in the condensing unit's "wiring" somewhere (not likely).
My guess is that either the condenser motor or compressor is shorted.
there is some moisture that is leaking near the power supply board in this unit. its a internal leak of some sort. it will need service soon. The musty smell is a dead give away when concerning an internal leak.
If your Plug is getting hot there is a voltage drop where the heat is generated. On these wall outlet recepticals there are two different methods of connecting the wires. First they strip the end of the wire and plug it into the back of the receptical . The second method is to strip the wire and attach it to a screw terminal . This is the best method for any outlet with a motor running from it.
For an example draw a straight line and then draw a circle that comes in contact with the line. Look and see how much contact area you have where the circle touches the line.