This unit was purchased about 2 years ago, put in the attic storage area and brought out for 'service' last week.
When it is plugged in, sparks were seen coming from one of the prongs on the power cord. hmmmm...perhaps direct short to ground....????
Took back off the unit and checked the continuity of the power cord....not direct shorts in the cord leading to the unit.
Check the continuity of the black incoming 110 AC line to chassis ground...direct short....traced this to the 35 uf capacitor...hmmmm...perhaps found the problem.
Putting the unit back together I noticed the incoming power cord had 3 wires: white, black and green. They were connected to the following terminals on the unit chasis: white>> ('L')white; black>>> ('N')blue; green>>>the ground symbol.
I then looked at the circuit diagram on the rear of the unit and it shows that the white wire from the power cord should be connected to the 'L' (line) terminal on the unit chassis; the black line from the power cord should be connected to the 'N' (neutral) terminal on the unit chassis; and the green wire from the power cord should be connected to the 'ground' symbol terminal on the unit chassis.
This seems odd, since the unit came hard wired that way, I assumed it was correct.
However, the power cord black wire is the house system 'hot' wire'; the white wire on the power cord is the system neutral; and the green wire of the power cord is the system ground.
Am I missing something here? Has the unit been wired incorrectly? Is the circuit diagram wrong? Surely, someone would have picked this up by now.
Why would Maytag design a circuit and reverse the wiring convention?
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Re: Unit trips circuit breaker when plugged in
On AC current it really makes no difference to the operation of the unit which terminal the wires are connected to as long as the circuit is completed. A reason for the inverted wiring is that there will be a resistance between the hot wire and the control circuit. It makes for a reduced load on the contacts and switches minimizing arching.
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Is the dryer gas or electric? Does it plug into a 110Volt outlet or a 220Volt outlet? Does it trip the circuit breaker immediately or will it run for a while and then trip the breaker? If it is tripping immediately then there is a short inside the unit. If it takes a while to trip the breaker it can be that the outlet you are using is not a dedicated line and has other circuits connected to it. If that's the case you are overloading the breaker and causing it to shut down. If it is a dedicated line that you are plugged into then something inside the unit is heating up when its in use and overloading the circuit breaker. Then the unit needs service.
Hello jerrydj1021 - Often when the breaker trips, it is a
mainly because there is too much current running on one circuit. Is the unit
plug into a GFI outlet? It is not recommended to use GFI outlets or too many
appliances plugged into that one circuit. Try plugging the unit into another
direct outlet and see if the breaker trips again. I ask that you please follow
up with a comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further
troubleshooting is needed or if the unit's status has changed successfully.
see this step: God bless you Check the house circuit breaker to see if it tripped? Click here if you own a Vacuflo Central Vacuum Unit continuously trips your circuit breaker
If it is tripped, then turn off your central vacuum unit and reset
the circuit breaker. Then turn the central vacuum unit on. If the
circuit breaker trips again, then refer to the following:
Determine if the house circuit your vacuum unit is on has sufficient voltage required.
If your unit has a reset button, press the button and try again.
the low voltage wire from the relay at the unit with a small screw
driver. If you hear the relay click you need to replace your motor. Click here to view Central Vacuum Motors Click here to view How to replace a motor
If you do not hear a click, then you need to replace your relay.
No, not that I'm aware of. But, the problem itself, may be in the electrical receptacle. A loose wire, a bad connection or interior damage could all cause the circuit breaker to trip. Or it may simply be the case, of line that air purifier is plugged into, is simply overloaded, because of other electrical appliances are on the same circuit of tripped the circuit breaker. Most air purifiers have their on circuit breaker or fuse built-in to the unit. And that, will usually trip before the circuit breaker in the breaker panel of your home.
Here's how you test that theory: Plug the unit into another outlet, that is on an entirely different circuit than the original one and turn it ON. If this trips a different circuit breaker, then you know it's an internal problem with the unit. If it doesn't trip the circuit breaker, the problem is with the original receptacle or the line that feeds that receptacle and it's circuit breaker.
Hope this helped you to troubleshoot and solve the problem.
A couple likely issues would be: 1. Is the starter key installed correctly? 2. Has the onboard circuit breaker tripped? The breaker reset is next to the on/off switch, which is on the lower front of the unit. Press the button once firmly. If this was the problem, the treadmill should work again immediately. If the onboard circuit breaker trips repeatedly, there may be a short circuit in the machine, in which case you may be at risk of shock if the unit is not repaired properly. 3. Has the circuit breaker or fuse for the particular outlet you are using tripped? Try plugging another electrical appliance into the outlet. Does it get power? If the circuit breaker or fuse has tripped, that particular circuit may be overloaded or faulty. Only an electrician could tell you for sure.
possibly the circuit breaker rather than the dryer itself. Usually when
it trips, it is overloaded or shorted. Overload can be a result of a
loose connection or a bad heating element,when you remove the old breaker, see if it has some noticeable burn/corrosion marks where the wire is screwed down, I think replacing the breaker will fix the problem. Hope this helped Tim
A circuit breaker 'tripping' everytime the AC unit kicks on 'most always' indicates a direct short (somewhere in the condensing unit), although it is possible that the breaker itself is bad - (but not likely).
Usually the cause of this 'short' will be - either the condenser motor in the condensing unit (outside unit) or the compressor - also in the condensing unit.
If you're mechanically inclined - and "very careful" around electricity - there is a fairly simple way to find out which component is causing the short.
Step 1 - Make sure the condensing unit (outside unit) is completely disconnected (electrically) , i.e. pull the fuses/turn off circuit breaker on outside unit and turn off thermostat.
Step 2 - disconnect the condenser motor (this is the outside fan motor). Note: when you disconnect the wires of the condenser motor "be sure" you mark/write their location, and wrap them in electric tape.
Step 3 - start the AC unit. If the breaker trips again you can pretty much rest assured it's the compressor that is shorted.
To prove it (without a doubt) - go to next step.
Step 4 - "be sure circuit breaker and thermostat is turned off" - and - 'reconnect' the condenser motor - and - then disconnect the compressor wires (mark wires and tape them).
Step 5 - Start AC.
If breaker doesn't trip - you know it's the compressor that is shorted.
If breaker 'does' trip again - then it's possible the breaker itself is bad (not likely) or there is a 'short' in the condensing unit's "wiring" somewhere (not likely).
My guess is that either the condenser motor or compressor is shorted.
I had the exact same issue. I left mine out for the winter and when I plug it in, the breaker trips. My warranty was up so my friend took it apart. The seal had broken alowing water to leak into the bottom the pump where the wires connect to top of motor. This is supposed to be water free and is protected by several seals.
I am currenlty trying to put sealant where the cord goes into unit to stop water from going in. I will let you know how that works.
One tip my friend recommeded is to make sure there is no stress on the cord as it appears this seal is weak and and kind of stress will break it. hope this helps -- Rob
get an inexpensive clamp amp meter (Harbor Freight has them). Turn off power to the plug. Remove plug from wall but do not disconnet wires. turn fridge OFF. plug the unit in the recept. turn on the power. set the meter for the higest reading (amps) & clamp it around the black wire. turn the fridge ON & observe start up current & the "run" current. If the fridge is within limits on the data plate the problem is in the wiring circuit, maybe a loose connection either @ the plug or the breaker. if there are several plugs in the circuit, the problem could be in one of them. In addition, if there is a gfi plug in this circuit, it could be faulty also.