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MY STOVE IS CLICKING EVERY SECOND. IT JUST STARTED DOING IT. IT IS A GAS STOVETOP AND ELECTRIC OVEN. I TURNED OFF THE BREAKER AND THE CLICKING STOPPED. I PUT IT BACK ON AND IT RETURNED. THANKS

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Under each gas control is a switch that will turn on the spark module when rotated to the light position. One or more of these switches has failed. on some models these switches are individually replaceable, others, the switch is an assembly of all four.

Posted on Jun 08, 2008

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My oven wont turn off from the knob it keeps turning


You didn't say whether you have a gas or electric oven, or oven & stove. I'll assume you have a stove, just to cover all bases.

First, you should shut down the oven: a gas stove will have a valve on the gas line behind the stove. The valve will either have a red handle or a flat stem that usually has a hole in it. Turn either valve 1/4 turn to shut off gas, use a wrench on the flat stem. An electric stove should be shut off by flipping off the double circuit breaker for it in your electric panel. Do not unplug an electric stove when it is on; this can damage the plug &/or electrocute you.

Most likely the inside of the knob has stripped out. Look at the knob for a hole that has a setscrew in it: a small allen wrench or screwdriver will loosen the setscrew, most knobs don't have them and will pull off. Be careful to use even pressure on two sides of the knob; if you can't pull it off, use two butter knives or flat screw drivers to pry it up enough to get a grip on it.

Look at the center stem on the back of the knob, it will likely be cracked or stripped. Some stems have a D-shaped metal insert that strips out inside the plastic stem. If you have one, pull off a burner knob and compare the stems in the back, if they are the same size, put the burner knob on the shaft for the oven control, and use that knob to turn the oven control off.

If the burner knob won't fit, use your fingers or a pair of pliers (gently) to turn off the oven control shaft. If the shaft stops normally, you can turn the stove back on using either the gas valve or the circuit breaker. If you have a gas stove that doesn't have electric ignition (a clicking noise when you turn on a burner) you may need to re-light the pilots for the burners. Lift the covers off the burners to re-light the pilots.

If you have succeeded in turning off the oven, you need a new knob -- you can get one at an appliance parts store or maybe a hardware store. If the oven control did not turn off normally, I would leave the oven/stove turned off: the control itself will need to be replaced by a qualified repair person.

Mar 03, 2013 | Ovens

1 Answer

F19 error code on lg double oven


had F19 error code on lower oven, F9 on upper. Pulled stove out and turned the regulator switch ON. Worked instantly. I thought I had the regulator on because the stovetop worked. The stovetop regulator is separate from the main regulator!!

Jun 22, 2011 | LG LWD3081ST Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Correct wire gauge and circuit breaker to use?


If it is only the oven that is electric and not the entire stove, the required wire size is 10/3 with ground and a 30AMP circuit breaker. If it is the entire stove then you need 50AMP range cable and a 50AMP breaker. If your doing your microwave also, you need a 20AMP breaker and the wire you need is 12/2 with ground.. If the current breaker you were running was 30AMP I would keep that for your oven and run new wire for your microwave.

Feb 23, 2010 | Kenmore 79383 Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas)...

1 Answer

The oven will not light and is throwing a breaker. Is this something fixable? It has been slow to light for a while now, and we usually have to turn on one of the stovetop burners in order to get the oven...


can you access the ignition module,if so try using one of the connections from the module that ignites a stove top burner and see if this line connected to the oven lights the oven now and doesn't throw the breaker,then you would know that section of the module is defective

Feb 11, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

GE gas stove top igniters won t stop clicking


I got this problem yesterday. My 6-month old GE range/stove top was being cleaned by a cleaning lady and suddenly, the igniters started clicking nonstop. I had to shut down the circuit breakers. I googled the problem, and it seemed clear that the "spark switches" got moisture on them. The best site which described this is: http://www.appliance411.com/archive/25012_ge_gas_cooktop_not_working_.shtml

Some people said you could dry them with a blow dryer, and others said you need to replace these switches (which is not too expensive, but takes some time/skill). I was hoping against this, so I tried something along those lines: I removed all the parts of the stovetop - the grill, the "cap", the metal funky piece, etc. until there was nothing but the surface of the stove and holes going down to the igniter area. Then, I took an electric fan and kept it pointed at the stovetop all night long. After about 10 hours, I turned the circuit breaker back on. No more clicking! And the burners all work! So, I think I essentially did the "hair dryer" solution, but did it more longterm without having to watch the clock to see if I did it long enough. Anyway, I don't normally post these things, but this discovery really helped me and I hope it helps someone else!

Feb 12, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Frigidaire Range control panel DEAD


We tested the EOC and it will indeed need a replacement. Also, just a couple weeks prior we ran the "clean" mode on the oven as did another poster who experienced the "pop" and loss of the control board/oven function, but still had stove top function.

Dec 16, 2008 | Frigidaire FEF366EC 30" Freestanding...

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F7? What is it?


http://www.appliancepartsdepot.com/Repair/BookLinks/viewer.asp?ch=7&apptype=5

Jan 28, 2008 | Magic Chef CER3740 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Electric Heating Element Not Heating stove


It's not a fuse, but a wire or heating element has burned up. Please TURN OFF the circuit breaker until you repair the problem, or at least until you know what the problem is! You say "in" the stove, so I'm assuming that you mean in the oven. Whichever element it is, whether it's in the oven or on the stovetop, just needs to be removed and checked for continuity with an ohmmeter. Quite frankly, if it IS an element, then you should see a burned-out spot somewhere on it that's pretty obvious. Then you just need to replace the element. If it's a wire, then you will need to repair the wire so that it safely makes contact with the element again. That process is a little more involved than just replacing an element, but let us know what you find. I can describe a wire-repair procedure if need be. ;)

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