My two year old unit would not do anything, but lights on. Then they would go off, and nothing but opening the door would get them on again. Replaced electronic panel in Feb. 2008, under warranty, still cost $80. Worked until first of June, 2008. Ordered a new panel. Repairman suggested that the wall outlet may be defective, even though the lights were on. The Unit also would have the lights come on by themselves. Outlet replaced, dryer worked fine. We still replaced the panel board, as repairman was not sure exactly what was the problem. I was told that the panel costs about $300.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
looking at schematics looks like you main control board is the faulty part. you have done a very good job of tracing the voltages from the source. been that all voltages are present and door switch is good the part left is the control board. here is the part# 33002886. you can find it at sears website or service center.
inside the control panel is a tech sheet that has some diagnostics on it . there is a membrane button test or something to that effect. I suspect that the start/pause button is the problem and you would need to replace the console w/touchpad.about $130-140 new. there are some used ones on ebay.
We have the same Maytag Dryer MDE5500AYW and after reading a few posts of possible fixes--Turn Power Off them back On to reset---Replace Control Board-- Then I saw APPLY HEAT to the panel control area AND IT WORKS. I put a small heater on the dryer top in front of the Control Board Panel Readout and after it warmed up the 88 went out and when I pushed Start It Works.
I think that cold weather has something to do with the problem. In Dallas it is 42 degrees outside and 70 degrees inside But the dryer vent is connected through the outside insulated brick wall and the cold air coming forom the outside vent makes the inside of the dryer COLD until the dryer is in operation.
Long story short--I will keep the heater handy in case It is needed until the weather warms up.
Ok , I replaced the control board. Still beeps continuously. Just sitting there, nothing else is on, just plugged in......beeep,beeeep,beeeeep,WTF man? I am about to turn this damn thing into an anchor and invest in more clothes lines! Maytag sucks. MAYTAG an acronym for...
We are having the same problem. We have the Neptune dryer MDE5500AYZ. The control panel doesn't come on. We know it's getting electricity as the light in the dryer is on. Is there a reset button in the dryer?
Front Panel lights not working? Dryer inside light does work? I fixed this twice already on my dryer. Please read this whole explanation
I live in New Orleans where the humidity is very high. I have a laundry room where my Washer and Dryer reside. Kenmore HE4T. I noticed that when I shut the laundry room door, my central A/C pulls hot air from outside the house via the dryer exhaust duct. This causes moisture to build on the inside of the dryer and especially the front control panel. Did you ever see moisture on your dryer?s door even when there were no clothes in it? The moisture collects on the Silicon board that controls the dyers function and basically causes a short.
This is what I do to fix it. You will need a ¼ nut driver or socket.
1. Confirm that you have power to the dryer <- is the inside dryer light on when you open the door. YES- keep reading.. NO ? find the circuit breaker and reset it.
2. UNPUG THE DRYER! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
3. Find the 3 screws in the back of the dryer that hold the dryer lid on. Unscrew them and slid the lid back and lift off. Is there moisture on the inside of the lid?
4. Find the 2 screws that hold down the front control panel. They should be silver and will be on top. Do not remove the inside gold screws.
5. Find the 3 screws that hold down the power control panel on the top left side of the dryer. Probably has a high voltage warning sticker on it.
6. Lift the power control panel (sheet metal) part and move it to the right so it lays on the dyers drum. There are some wires attached to it and unless you are a very handy person, I wouldn?t remove them.
7. Lift the front control panel straight up until it comes out of the dryer. There should be some wires that attach this piece to the power control panel. If you are handy, you can remove these 2 clip-on wires from the power control panel by squeezing the black connector locking clip and releasing it from the panel.
8. If you flip the control panel around you may notice moisture on the green silicon chips. Get a hairdryer and take your time to dry them.
9. Dry all components of the dryer with a hairdryer.
10. Put everything back together except for the lid and all the screws. Remember that the front control panel slides down first and then the power control panel sits on top second. Plug the dryer in and see if you get lights, but don?t start the dryer. Unplug the dryer and replace all the screws and the lid.
The problem is that once the dryer gets wet from the moisture, it never dries enough for it to start working again. This is a bad design from Sears/Whirlpool. I learn my lesson that just because its more expensive doesn?t make it more better.
I now keep my dryer and washer door open all the time even when there are no clothes in it. This lets the moisture escape into the house rather than collect in the dryer.
I hope this helps at least one person.
Jason Kennedy from New Orleans