Question about Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side by Side Refrigerator

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Icemaker I have a kenmore coldspot 106.55394400 and the ice maker is not working. Water dispenser is fine. It's almost 3 years old. Is it worth emptying the fridge and turning it off for the night to melt any frozen parts or tubes? Does the solenoid ever go bad or should I just assume the controller board and thermostat is the problem? BTW I don't leave bad reviews here

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  • Ben Jordan Jun 10, 2008

    I found details on how to test the ice maker unit itself on-line and it passed all the tests including the thermostat at 0 ohms when cold, infinite ohms when warm and 4.5k ohms when warm and the ice bin full lever is up.

  • Ben Jordan Jun 10, 2008

    A little more detail.



    When I took out the ice maker there was no ice in it. Water is not being added.



    I put a themometer in the freezer last week. Can't remember the exact reading but I remeber it being cold enough for whatever forum post I had read at the time.



    There was a lot of dust and hair on the cooling tubes behind the bottom pannel that I cleaned out, that did not solve the problem.



    Yes, I had the full bucket arm in the correct position (down = on) My fridge does not have an on/off switch for the ice maker unless it is very well hidden.

  • Ben Jordan Jun 10, 2008

    would the thermistor stop the water from entering the ice maker? I found testing procedures for the thermostat inside the ice maker and it passed. Is this a different part you are talking about?

  • Ben Jordan Jun 10, 2008

    Defrosting a fridge is a pain unless you have another fridge to put your food in... the fridge at work has been pumping out 2x the ice for 5 years without problem. I can see into the fill tube and it doesn't look blocked.

  • Ben Jordan Jun 10, 2008

    Basically, I don't want to defrost my fridge if there is an easy way to check for ice blockage... should I be able to see the ice blockage in the tube? Can I disconnect the tube and blow through it for a test?

    From what I've read on forums most suggest replacing the controller board. This would cost me around $160. I'm able to replace components if anyone knows A) if this sounds like a controller board issue and B) if by some miracle they know what exactly breaks on teh contoller board.

  • Ben Jordan Jun 11, 2008

    Last night I tested the solenoids. The water solenoid was 190 ohm and the ice solenoid was 260 ohm. I even pulled out the master controller board to look for anything obvious. There were no fuses (even surface mount) and only a few diodes I could test because the board was coated. Everything looked fine...

    I also ran a string through the water inlet for the ice tray so there is no ice blockage.

    The fridge has a built in water filter before the ice maker solenoid so I don't see how mineral blockage could be a problem. Plus our water is really nice here. The water dispensor works fine.

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Have you looked at the pressure of the source supply of water for the icemaker.. ? Sound's like you've checked everything else up to there !

Posted on Jun 11, 2008

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Here is a solution I found on a different site:

Try this..using some hot water and a squirt bottle with a tube about a foot to a foot and half long (about 1/8 to 1/4 inch diameter) to melt the ice (if present) and return it to working order most of the time. There is a black tube to the right of the ice maker on the roof of the freezer, if you squirt the hot water there, it should fix it, if there was an ice blockage..This way you donot have to defrost the fridge :) Here is a pic:
icemaker - moz-screenshot.jpg

It would be better if you take off the ice maker and the ice maker cover. The ice maker cover comes off by lifting it up and pushing it to the right, the pegs come out of the holes then. The ice maker is removed by one bolt at the bottom of the ice maker. Here's a pic to help you locate it:
53dc598.jpg

Once the ice maker is moved out of the way, you can easily feed the tube into the black hose and turn the bottle upside down to push the warm water into the hose. It should then melt any ice and it should all come draining out. Keep a dish underneath the hose to catch the water and (hopefully) the ice that was blocking the hose.

Re-assemble and wait a few hours to see if your making ice again.

Also note if you see a flashing red light just inside the freezer door where the button is to turn on and off the ice maker. A flashing light means problems with the sensing PCB. Look behind the kick panel under the refrigerator door for the service info sheet. It will give diagnostic info for these boards.

Also, a solid red light means that the door is open and the ice maker will not make ice. If you hit the big white switch to the left of the door (hinges area), the light switches to solid red. This tells the ice maker to start making ice. The little holes under the red light are sensors that tell the ice maker when it's full. Make sure that these are not blocked in any way, and are clear, or it will give wrong info to the control panel saying that the ice maker is full..

Hope that helps!

Posted on Jun 11, 2008

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Ice maker solenoid is bad i had the same problem with my fridge.

Posted on Jun 11, 2008

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If everything checks out and you aren't getting any water then it's most likely the water valve that isn't opening on the ice maker side. A new valve is available here: http://www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/Inventory.733408/qx/PartDetail.htm?SourceCode=7&ModelNum=106.55394400

Look at this article for a great description on locating, removing, and testing the solenoid on the valve: http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/home_improvement/1276061.html?page=1

It can happen that it freezes, use a hair dryer to heat the valve and the surrounding tubes. That way you won't need to defrost the entire fridge.

Posted on Jun 10, 2008

  • Dean Joly
    Dean Joly Jun 12, 2008

    Try to find a way that you could test for the voltage at the ice solenoid, if there is no signal then the solenoid will keep the valve closed. If this is the case then you either have a problem with your wiring or with the control board even if it looks healthy.



    Here's a link the purchase the control board: http://www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/Invent...

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WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR ICE MAKER
http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_1.asp
Type " kenmore coldspot " at search tab to find parts needed

Posted on Jun 10, 2008

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Normally the thermostat cycles the freezer on and off. The cooling system runs as long as the temperature inside the freezer is higher than the set temperature. If the temperature inside the freezer is cold enough, but the thermostat doesn't cycle off, the thermostat may be defective. If so, you need to replace it.
but i feel unpluging n keeping ur refrigerator off for least 24 hours n defrosting it is a best thing to do in such cases.try doing that ,if u hve already tried out doing it n still if it doesnot help.do not try to open it manually if u dont hve any experience as it can lead to further problems.its better to call a technician n the servicing is more than enough to resolve this problem.thanks rate this solution as "fixya" if it helps u anyway.thanks feel free for further assistance.

Posted on Jun 10, 2008

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Yeah its a good idea to melt it ones or twice in a year.

Posted on Jun 10, 2008

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The thermistor wold be faulty

Posted on Jun 10, 2008

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