Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Make sure your vent duct is not clogged up. If the machine can't breathe properly it will short cycle the burner. If this is ok, it sounds like the flame sensor has failed. Also, the thermistor should not read open, it should have some resistence. It changes depending on the temp. Open the back of the console and you should have a tech sheet that gives all the readings and diagnostic checks. Post back to this thread if you need help going through it.
Make sure your vent duct is not clogged up. If the machine can't breathe properly it will short cycle the burner.
If this is ok, it sounds like the flame sensor has failed. Also, the thermistor should not read open, it should have some resistence. It changes depending on the temp. Open the back of the console and you should have a tech sheet that gives all the readings and diagnostic checks.
Post back to this thread if you need help going through it.
Posted on Oct 23, 2007
If the venting is clogged this will happen. And that is a good thing because it is a safety measure built in to prevent fires. There is a thermostat that can tell when your dryer is over-heating,(usually caused by clogged venting by lint) and this devise tells the heating element to turn off so as not to create a fire. Clean out venting, inspect thermostats and element, replace if neccesary. You may only have to clean out the venting.
Posted on Dec 09, 2007
SOURCE: not drying
If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
Now, if your dryer keeps failing, it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation was. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this could be the cause of your dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little prevent maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. You have to remove the entire front panel on some models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.
I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.
PS This is not to assume you are abusing your appliance or are acting irresponsible. I just wanted to give you some useful tips, because some people just don't know.
Posted on Feb 14, 2008
Huuum At your service!
We frequently have to start the dryer several times during one load. The dryer will run fine for a while then all the sudden give 3 beeps and then the F 70 code. Sometimes when you go to start the dryer you can press power and the panel will light up for about 3 - 5 seconds and then shut off again, this will happen several times in a row. We have been unable to solve this issue ourselves and are becoming very frustrated since this washer/dryer set are less than a year old. Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated. (If we are unable to fix this problem soon, it is likely that the dryer will make a sudden leap from the second floor window to the backyard)
Try this first!!
This is an error code.
This can reset the system.
First unplug the washer and wait a 5 minutes then restart it.
It's like rebooting your computer when its acting strange!
Usually it corrects some error problems if they are not serious.
Or they are sometimes just a glitch.
If this does not help, you said the machine is not one year old.
All appliances have a 1 -year warranty and the service and parts are free for that first year!
I hope you succeed with my recommendations.
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Posted on Sep 18, 2008
THere maybe a thermal limit sensor gone bad. Keeps the dryer from over-heating. Located behind rear panel on most and mounted on the heat tube. Verify with volt/ohm meter if possible
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
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