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My 1990 Kawasaki Bayou has electrical issue. Power once ignition is on is only 4Volts. Have changed battery, cdi, regulator, neutral relay, and ignition coil.

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  • mikegissel Oct 25, 2010

    I am looking to have 12 Volts between terminals on battery with ignition on? Just making sure that the capacitor discharge ignition doesn't use some power charging the capacitor. Do you know a good place to buy a new wiring harness?

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Hi Mike. Since you have already replaced so many parts I recommend that you make an appointment with an autoelectric repair shop. They have all of the diagnostic tools and knowhow to test all of the components, wires, connections, etc. and find the problem. If you do not know of such a shop, they will be in the yellow pages. Joe

Posted on Oct 25, 2010

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This is caused by a short somewhere. When you installed the new battery was there a spark? The short is going to be in something that gets power when the switch is on. Sometimes these are very difficult to find. But it is grounding out somewhere. Headlight switch is a good place to start looking. The short is stealing all of the power to the ignition switch. The wire that is shorted should get warm after a short time of the ignition switch being on.

Posted on Oct 24, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

1988 klf300 bayou no spark, installed a new cdi voltage regulator,stator,and coil ran for four days and now no spark. what do you think is wrong.


Hi, Jeff sounds like you have a faulty wire connection somewhere otherwise the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting, leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
10. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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1 Answer

2003 klx 400r no spark


Hi, Dirty and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose, check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil, pick up coil, trigger coil or CDI box testing needs to be checked with an ohmmeter at 70 degrees Fahrenheit
7. Faulty safety switches clutch, kickstand, neutral, off/on etc.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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2003 2004 Kawasaki KL X400R Service Manual Moto Data Project
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2003 Kawasaki KLX400R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Oct 11, 2016 | 2003 kawasaki KLX 400 R

1 Answer

2002 Kawasaki bayou klf300 4x4 missies at half to full throttle cleaned the carb and bought new cdi,rectifier still misses


Hi, Ellis and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
11. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
12. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
13. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
14. Damaged carburetor.
15. Incorrect valve timing.
16. Weak or broken valve springs.
17. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/mechanics-corner/35765-89-bayou-300-backfires-coughs-above-idle-speed.html
Kawasaki carb problem Gurus please help
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/118245427-kawasaki-bayou-300-service-manual-repair-1986-2006

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

May 01, 2016 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

86 kawasaki 300 bayou, turn the key on, hit start button and there is nothing. i did find a wire terminal on the regulator / rectifier Fixed it and still nothing. what component should i look at..?


Hi, Lee and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Faulty starter button/switch.
6. Faulty jiffy stand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
7. Security alarm needs a reset.
8. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
9. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
For more information about your issue and downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Jan 27, 2016 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

1995 Kawasaki GPZ 1100 no electrical power


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/517651-82-gpz-b2-no-electrical-power-after-restore
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1 Answer

2006 kawasaki KLX 250 no electrical power


Hi, Bo80 before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. Faulty ignition relay.
14. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
15. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
No Electrical Power At All 2007 KLX250 Kawasaki Forums
https://advrider.com/index.php?threads/klx250s-electrical-issue.893383
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Nov 11, 2012 | 2006 kawasaki KLX 250

1 Answer

1990 dr 650 wiring diagram, i need one or need to know if it is the same as 92 93 94 95.


No, it is definately different.
I own a '90 DR650RS model and have the Service Manual from Suzuki. This covers years and models 1990 to 1996.
From the outset, the electric start was added in 1991.
Thus numerous changes are evident with starter relays, clutch relay, duplicated wires to the twin coils and a totally new CDI unit or Black Box!
There is also variants within each year, with differing variations for USA, Canada, Europe, Germany, Australia and Switzerland.
Yearly changes were (are) made right throughout the DR's history. From 1990 to 1992 the position of CDI moved and extra sensors were added for clutch and sidestand in lieu of neutral light. Magneto source coils were also beefed up as was the necessary change to the Rectifier/Regulator to handle the extra required for the starter motor.
I have just experienced some electrical issues and was dismayed to find my stock wiring does not exactly correlate with the specified diagram in the service manual, this is common as I have restored over 30 motorcycles and correctly matching diagrams has been very rare.
I can scan the specific diagram and repost here if you can be specific with year, model and country. IE: the DR650R differs from my DR650RS as does the DR650RSE or RSEU etc.
Cheers!

Nov 29, 2010 | 1990 Suzuki DR 650 RS

2 Answers

Kawasaki 300 bayou won't rev up.


No guarantees but try this. Pull the slide from the throat of the carb. Now move the clip on the jet needle down one notch. This will richen the low end mix. Two notches may be needed but do one notch at the start.

Apr 30, 2009 | 1990 kawasaki ZXR 400

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