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Commercial Hobart dishwasher

Unit is a model LX30. Pump works when turned on, unit does not drain or let water in. in controller board area the left hand fuse { 3A} blows when turned on the pump works but does not do antthing else. A servive wrench comesup and initially it starts with an H on the screen. I talked with a Hobart tech. I unhooked all of the components and the left fuse still blew. He suggested to replace the relay board. I ordered the board and replaced it. It still blew the fuse. I ordered the main board after talking with the tech again and with the same results and $600 worth of boards I'm back to square 1. One hint in the back of my mind is the relay board was shelf worn and had been in and out of the package a number of times.

Any help?

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I can't imagine a bad relay board would blow a fuse. The relay board would need to make a bad connection to ground to blow a fuse -- I don't see it.

If you could supply me with the ML#, I'll take a look at the wiring diagram and give you an educated answer.

Not that I recall clearly which fuse is for the drain solenoid, but the two sound related. If a drain valve is obstructed by debris, it will heat up the coil and short it out. I don't know the spec'd ohms, but I would suspect at least 50. I'd check it.

Posted on Jun 10, 2008

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2 Answers

P1 error code on LX30 Hobart


This is a bad sump temperature probe. The unit will function, but will not heat nor display the wash water temperature.

This is a very easy fix. Order Hobart part number 328994 from your nearest Hobart parts dept.

Turn off and drain the unit. Kill the power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Remove the lower front cover. Locate the screw-in temperature probe at the front of the sump. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness, remove with a 7/16" open end wrench. Screw in the new probe, using teflon tape of the threads, snuggly. It does not need to be super tight. Plug it into the harness, reinstall the front cover, turn the breaker back on, and start up the unit.

TURN THE BREAKER OFF AS EVEN WITH THE UNIT "OFF" THERE WILL BE 120 VOLTS PRESENT AT THE SUMP HEATER (yellow wires) DUE TO ONLY ONE LEG OF POWER BEING SWITCHED OFF!

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2 Answers

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The LX18 series was a compromise machine, the lack of a sump heater causes numerous rinse temperature problems due to it's increased water use (over the sump-heater equipped, fresh water rinse LX30 series).

The LX18H can be reprogrammed for true fill and dump operation. If you still need to do this, please let me know via e-mail or post a reply, otherwise a won't post the long answer!

(I worked for Hobart as a service tech. from 1994 until 1999, and have been independent since then)

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2 Answers

Hobart LX 30 P2 Error and unit overflowing!


Hi drogers77,

I'm not a Hobart technician, but here what I founded in my manual for the LX30 error message:

LX18 / LX30 display shows E0, E2, E3 or E4

1. Low water pressure - check for clogged hose strainer; check that site water pressure meets minimum flow pressures.

2. Make sure probes are clean

3. No water pressure - main water supply valves may not be working

4. Drain valve open - turn machine OFF to drain machine, then ON. Repeat twice (this assists in clearing any drain valve obstructions). Wait for machine to reach READY mode and press WASH. Slowly open door several seconds later and note water level. Close door; 30 seconds later, open door slowly and check that water level is the same as it was. If not, repeat the OFF-ON procedure. If problem persists, call your local Hobart Service Office.

5. Delime machine.

Hope it will help you.

pepsicrazy

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4 Answers

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Hopefully you took the suggestion to run the correct 50 amp 208-240 service to the unit.

Converting the unit to an LX30C has a couple of pitfalls. The LX30C is connected directly to the incoming water supply, which should run 120-140 degrees. By reprogramming the unit as an LX30C, the booster would be disabled, which would mean the incoming water would flow through the de-energized booster and be cooling off while it sits in there between cycles and when the unit is shut down.

The incoming fill plumbing (5/8" heater hose) would have to reconnected from the fill solenoid valve directly to the vacuum breaker on the rear of the unit to bypass the booster heater.

On the 208-240 volt LX18/30/40's, the pump motor, booster heater, and sump heater run on 208-240. To convert it to 120 volts you would have to replace the sump heater and reconfigure the motor wiring in the motor junction box.

By the time this is all done, you've downgraded a great machine, confused the next service guy, and have to deal with nasty chlorine and all of it's headaches.

I

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1 Answer

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Either the drain body is stuck or the solenoid is bad,give me a little more detail,model of the unit lx18,lx30,lx40,lxi?

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1 Answer

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If you are referring to the rinse agent pump, there must be NO leaks in the tubing or the hose that runs through the pump. And if the unit has lost its prime, using your hand to "seal" it, and forcing water from the faucet into the line can prime it.

Good luck - Mike

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2 Answers

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Usually film is caused by using residential soap in a commercial unit. The commercial unit cycle is too short for residential soaps to dissolve and work properly. So soap ends up in your rinse water.

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