We start it and it rapidly increases its speed to max and then shuts off. I have taken it apart and am looking at the speed control switch. Nothing stands out as a problem. I have used compressed air to clean out the slider in hopes it is failing to make a proper connection do to flour dust or something.
I would recommend that you first check the Hall Effect sensor
which determines the mixer’s speed. I had this exact problem and I
actually went out and bought another Hall sensor for about $13. I
replaced the original sensor and made sure that the connection between the
sensor and control board was nice and snug. My mixer worked as good as new! But
I was curious to know if my original sensor was defective, so I put it back in
mixer and again made sure all of the connections were tight. Guess what?
My original sensor also made my mixer work! There was nothing wrong
with the original Hall Effect sensor except that the connection between the control
board and sensor was not snug and tight--unfortunately I didn't check the connection
before I decided to buy another sensor. My guess is that the connection between
the control board and the sensor probably loosens or comes undone over time
from use and vibrations. 1. Downloadthe mixer
parts and diagrams from the Kitchenaidwebsiteto see
what the Hall Effect sensor looks like. BTW the part number is 9703312. 2. You'll need a phillips head screwdriver to open up the
mixer gear case cover. 3. Make sure that the connection between the control board
and sensor is absolutely tight and snug. 4. Also, make sure that the orientation of the sensor is
correct. It's difficult to tell which
way the sensor should be connected because the control board has three prongs
and the sensor can attach facing up or down. After you've made the connection,
run the mixer. If it still doesn't work, disconnect the sensor, reconnect it
with the prongs facing the opposite direction and try it again. I
actually found the right sensor orientation through a little trial and error.
But by going through this trial and error, I also had my Eureka moment when I realized that the
original sensor probably would also work if it were reconnected with correct
orientation. 5. This whole process probably takes less than 10-15 minutes
to perform. 6. Finally, use your common sense
and make sure to unplug the mixer before checking, connecting or disconnecting
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I am sure #10 in the highest speed, but are you saying it will only run at #10? if so I would start by removing the cover again. Hopefully no parts are missing. Make sure the selector switch is moving things on the board if possible. I mean if you can move it with you finger you should be able to move it with the selector lever. Sorry for the trouble but I have never taken mine apart I just clean the out side. I do no this. Sometimes I must take something apart and reassemble them several times before getting them to work the way they are supposed to.
Best of luck
But!!!! there could be a break in the grounding wire inside the back of the mixer motor head, it is easy to check. face the rear of the mixer and look at the top you will see a small screw, remove it and gently lift the rear cover up and out muck more up than out (you could break off the mounting ears on the bottom of the rear cover) then look at the plug wires, white and black wires should be attached by clips to speed control switch the green grounding wire should be attached to the mixer frame with a screw, if it has come off then put it back on, the screw should have fallen out when the rear cover was taken off if the screw has come out, it may just be loose also so use a phillips head screw to tighten down. please let us know if this helped or you need more help there may be a more serious electrical problem that needs to be dealt with.
you need to replace the speed control plate in the back of the mixer, there is a chance that it just need adjusting by way of the three silver screws on the plate but the part is cheap enough that it is worth replacing, you can find the part on ebay and instructions step by step on youtube.
On the professional 600 model there is a speed control board (Computer board) that is probably the culprit. Easy fix cost $30-$35.00 dollars for the part plus shipping. if you are under warranty then Kitchenaid will fix. If not you can do it quickly. Go to kitchenaid site look for support tab on right top side of window and click it, look for get user guides and manuals in the next window, click it, enter on the right side of the next page the model number and who you are (consumer), then you will be taken to another page that has the manuals listed on the left the upper manual is for user guide the lower manual is for parts list. Down load the parts guide / list so that you can find your particular speed board and it will show you how to disassemble and replace. It really is an easy fix. Not messy or complicated, just take your time and lay your parts out in a manner that will make YOU remember how they go back in. There are no other computer boards in the mixer so you will have no problem recognizing it. call Kitchenaid customer service and ask where the nearest service center is, if you live close by take your part number to the center and you can probably get it at the parts desk (fast parts, more expensive than internet, no shipping costs) Please let us know if this helps or if you need more help, that's why we're here.
Hi. Stop using your mixer. If your mixer is still covered by warranty, call Kitchenaid Customer Service, they are very good with warranty repairs.
If your mixer is out of warranty, remove the silver band that surrounds the top of mixer. Remove the top cover. At the front of the mixer, locate the transmission housing which is now exposed. Examine this housing carefully for cracks. If you find cracks anywhere in this housing, you have found the under-engineered plastic transmission housing. Kitchenaid's replacement housing is made of metal. Your plastic housing has no business being in a mixer that is marketed as being able to mix bread dough. It cannot!
If you're confident that you can make the repairs yourself, go to the Kitchenaid website and download the parts drawings. Remove the Trans. housing, remove the worm gear shaft assembly which is driven by the motor.. Remove and save as much grease as necessary to thoroughly inspect the worm gear. Inspect the worm shaft bearings. Look for cracks, or missing pieces on the bearings. Look for crunched cogs on all gears. Be prepared to wait at least a month for your parts to arrive after you order them. The replacement grease should be Shell Darina 2, or Chevron FM ALC EP 2.
If you're not confident about repairing this yourself, call Kitchenaid and determine the nearest "approved" repair shop.
You may be able to pressure Kitchenaid to pay for the damaged parts in your mixer. They are still installing these plastic Trans. housing on new mixers. Insist on a metal cover when replacing. Apparently, Kitchenaid feels no shame in their manufacturing process, and will not issue a recall notice for these housings. They are substandard at best.
If you found this solution helpful, please rate it. Good luck! ricardok45.