Tank fills with water but then no agitation, what do we need to change?

the strap (belt) is chipped, damaged, the spindle from the VAT ruptured, cracked the tank squealing stops, etc. more details please

Not so? If it does not go into agitation? You may have a bad water pressure switch which sends signal to start agitation. but also can have bad cam dogs in agitator which do not engage agitator? a bad door switch will not allow agitation or spin on some appliances. And lastly yes u may have a bad timer wheres points have fused? can check most of these with a multi meter

Change your belt or seal of tank of machine.

sounds like a defective pressure switch that is just a spdt pressure operated switch and its stuck on the timer side of this switch and can't switch back to the fill side of the switch to fill the machine first before starting agitation,check voltage from the water fill wire off this switch for line voltage,then check from the wire on this switch to the timer for line voltage,probably no voltage from the water fill valve wire so it can't fill

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. You probably have a bad water level switch. As for the agitation, the drive motor controls the agitation, spinning, and draining. It is possible for the machine to not agitate, but yet spin and drain. The motor runs clockwise and counterclockwise. It may be bad and if so, will need changed.

Most likely the gears in the agitator are worn. They are called agitator dogs.

Check your pump and drain for a blockage.
You also could have a timer connection issue. Remove the timer wire connectors and reattach them.The timer simply has a quick connection block, sometimes they get a little loose and all you gotta do is push it all the way back in. Check for a loose lid hinge and safety switch also.

A common problem with noises from washing machines has been the under wire that may come out of small clothes. In the washer they can get stuck in one of the inner basket holes and make a scrapping noise, they can actually make there way into the pump and jam the pump, or make a terrible noise when the pump is running. Grab a flash light and have a peek inside the washer for this. Front load washers seem very common to this happen! If the tiny cloth  is showing signs of fraying, may be best not to wash it in the washing machine, replace the cloth.


Maytag Dependable care washer.....Locate a 1/4 inch screw on the side of the agitator, ( about 3/4 of the way down) remove this screw and lift up on the agitator...picture.
 
Maytag Atlantis, Norge, Performa by Maytag.....Remove the cap and softener dispenser by pulling it off and locate the agitator bolt, remove bolt and lift up on the agitator...picture.


Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.
 

Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.


Maytag Dependable care washer.....Locate a 1/4 inch screw on the side of the agitator, ( about 3/4 of the way down) remove this screw and lift up on the agitator...picture.
 
Maytag Atlantis, Norge, Performa by Maytag.....Remove the cap and softener dispenser by pulling it off and locate the agitator bolt, remove bolt and lift up on the agitator...picture.

 

Place the unit in the spin cycle and see if it will pump the water out and if it will spin. (This makes the motor,transmission and pump run in the opposite direction.)