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All the little tabs and latches appear to be intact but recently, when the phone is open, the top of the "camera" depresses the cover release button. I can't figure out why. No trauma, no dropping or anything.
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I disagree. The procedure is so easy no Service Manual is needed
1) Remove ALL power. Remove the AC adapter, and Battery.
2) Open the laptop.
The plastic frame in front of the LCD screen is the Display Bezel. (Gateway? Believe they call it the LCD Panel Bezel)
Down in the BOTTOM corners, next to the Hinges, are screws to be removed. One in each bottom corner.
There are Screw Covers over these screws. The Screw Covers need to be removed. Little round covers I believe to be made of plastic. (Some models they are made of synthetic rubber)
I use a computer pick to Gently remove them. Some use the tip of an X-Acto knife. I do not recommend this as there is a possibility of injury. Perhaps a large darning needle. (Needle you sew with, but is Large in size)
Pick up at one edge of Screw Cover. Screw Covers are held on by a type of rubber cement. I LIGHTLY stick them to the Display Bezel for safekeeping.
(Yes. They like to stick to the tool, your fingers, and it seems passing jets in the sky. If you are careful with them, you should be able to reuse them. If they do not stick anymore, use a toothpick, and apply a TINY dab of rubber cement to them/it )
Once the Screw Covers are removed use a No.1 Philips screwdriver, or equivalent Jewelers screwdriver; to remove the 2 screws.
The Display Bezel has TABS going around the exterior perimeter, of it's inside edges. These Tabs snap into matching LATCHES on the Display Cover.
You can come from the Outside edge, where the Display Bezel meets the Display Cover, and use a thick guitar pick.
The guitar pick is wedged into the parting line, of where the Display Bezel meets the Display Cover.
Once a 'crack' is formed in-between the two, then the fingertips are used to gently start popping the bezel from the cover.
You slowly go along with your fingertips, and work along the top, then sides. By the time you have both sides almost loose, the Display Bezel usually pops off.
I like the flex method. Come to the inside edge of the Display Bezel. Where it meets the LCD screen. I suggest start on the Right side/Middle.
Use a fingertip, and lift up the inside edge of the Display Bezel up a little. Can't lift up at that spot? Move over. You are at a Tab/Latch.
With this spot lifted up a little, use the fingertip of the other hand, and slide under next to it. Now use your fingertips as wedges, and pop the Display Bezel loose a little at a time.
I start at the Right side/Middle as stated. Left hand fingertips go DOWN the right side, Right hand fingertips go UP the right side. Then I go across the Top, and down the Left side.
MOST of the time, as stated; the Display Bezel usually pops off when right side, and left side are most of the way popped loose. NOT always though!
Sometimes you have to pop EACH and EVERY Tab/Latch loose.
Also; watch around the Hinge area/s. Display Bezel can get hung up around them. Go slow, and gently work the Display Bezel off, around the Hinge areas.
Display Bezel popped off, sit back; relax. You just did the hard part. Wasn't so tough, huh?
This is what the Display Bezel looks like removed,
The MAIN view shown is a BACK view. In the smaller views underneath, the 4th view from the Left, shows the FRONT view.
If you SET your mouse cursor in the middle of the Main view photo, the Zoom In feature is enabled. You can CLICK on any of the smaller views, to make them appear as a Main view.
You can also see that the Hinge Covers, are an integral part of the Display Bezel. Shows you that when removing the Display Bezel, these Hinge Covers may need to be worked off of the Hinges.
Of course, may not; as I have previously stated.
The LCD screen is an Assembly. It is composed of layers. These layers are kept in the factory set alignment, by a metal Screen Frame. The Screen Frame resembles a picture frame.
There are THREE screws on each side of the Screen Frame. These screws (Philips) go through metal Brackets, and hold the LCD screen/Screen Frame; to the Display Cover.
On EACH side, there is 1 screw towards the Top, 1 screw towards the Bottom/Middle, and 1 screw towards the Bottom.
Remove all 6 screws.
At the Top is the Webcam Cable. Unplug it from the Webcam Module. (Cable pulls to LEFT side, facing laptop)
The TOP of the LCD screen is now tilted forward. The Video Cable plugs into the Bottom side.
There should be a piece of clear Mylar tape, holding the Video Cable connector in place. Carefully peel it back, unplug the Video Cable from the LCD screen.
Remove the LCD screen.
Reverse steps to install new LCD screen.
For additional questions please post in a Comment.
In this case, I think GE may stand for "Gratuitous Effort" (Required). I'm unsure why they made this so complex. Luckily, by some miracle I saved the instructions. Here's how to do it.
At the base of the mouse (nearest your wrist), you'll see a small rectangular tab. Push down on it, and slide the cover off the top of the mouse. If your mouse is colored this is the top colored portion that slides free.
You'll see the two batteries, trapped under the Plastic Holder of Death (P.H.D. for short). On the side of the P.H.D. closest to your wrist, look for a very small rectangular tab. It is right in the middle, in the ditch between the batteries, and rests on top of a small circular indentation/ lens thing.
On the other end of the P.H.D, just below the mouse wheel, you should also see a larger plastic latch holding that end in place. The key is to push in the small rectangular tab while, at the same time, lifting the latch. The tab doesn't want to move, and this is tricky to do with just two hands, so what I did was:
-Use the tip of a pen to press firmly on the plastic tab. It doesn't seem to want to move; personally just my finger pressure didn't do it, although if you have fingernails it mightwork for you. But the pen helped me push harder and alsowas easier to do one-handed.
-While you push with the pen, use the other hand to slide afingernail into the latch on the other end of the P.H.D. Pushthe latch back (towards where you're holding down the tabwith the pen), while at the same time lifting up. The tab beingpushed down will cause this latch to free, and you should feelit come loose. Then you can simply maneuver one or theother end of the P.H.D. out. The tab will eventually pop free,and your batteries will once again see the light of day.
A side note: I realized that, if you do this enough times (like more than once), the tab sort of wants to pop off. This was not a disaster. In fact, it was kind of awesome, since I won't have to do this rigmarole again. The large latch on the wheel end is plenty to hold the P.H.D. in place, and you can also wedge the (broken-off) tab back in if you want an even tighter fit. Once the mouse cover is back in place, of course, it's all good.
Whew. See my Microsoft Paint Masterpiece below for a visual on this. Viva las pilas!
Back cover is obviously very easy. Front cover has 4 clips one each side
at top and bottom, just need to gently pull the casing away from the
body in each corner until the clips pop out. The piece over the camera
at the back is a little more tricky, it's got two clips, one each side
at the bottom, check your back shutter it connected with a camera switch. Remove the back of your phone & then set it again.
As you may be aware, the knob has to be rotated to pull in the latches so you can open the top. When you pull on the strap to close the top, I releases the latches so they will stop at the 1 ft intervals.
1. Make sure that when you pull on the strap, you see the knob pop back to the lock position (handle going side to side) If it stays in a front to back orientation, the strap is not pulling on the latch release. 2. On either side of the roll top, there is a plastic block that keeps the latch bars in place. If one of the screws falls out, you will lose control of the latch on that side so it no longer locks the cover at any of the intervals.
I've had a jackrabbit cover for the past 8 years and I've only had a couple little issues related to the latching. The things i indicated are what I found to be the problem at different times.
Alot of times there is residue that has got stuck in between the flash cover and top cover. Turn the camera on and with your nail pry open the flash as you push the flash pop up button with your other hand! Then with alcohol and a couple of q-tips clean every part under the flash pop up. When the camera is facing you there is a arm that rests slightly forward on the left side clean there and on the right side in the back there is a piece of plastic sticking out of the cover. Its black in color clean that with alcohol depress it a few times with the q-tip soaked in alcohol and the arms that push up the flash are silver, clean those real good. Alot of times when a camera is sent in for this it is usually a result of residue of some sort getting in between the flash pop up and the top cover! Even if it looks clean, clean it anyways. Also sometimes the flash pop up is slightly bent you can bend it in place with your hand. Just a little a a time and then try to depress the flash pop up button and see if it works.
There are 6 latches all in all. 2 in the bottom part, 2 about 1/4 for
the top (in line with the top of your screen) then 2 in the top part.
First remove the bottom 2 latches. I would suggest to use a jeweller's
flat head screw driver or similar. Then slide the screw driver up one
side to the latch that is about 1/4 from the top - it is in line with
the top of your screen, this latch should pop off. The cover is fairly
strong but do be be a little careful about breaking it.
Then the other do the same on the other side, after that every thing
else is easy, pull the front cover carefully from the middle latches
then slide the cover upward. If you do all this carefully then you will have successfully removed the front cover.vote me if this works.thanks!
well pop the back off ,remove the battery.then there are 2 screws that hold the modem in place.remove them and very carefully pry the modem off.there are 2 plastic tabs near the bottom of the phone 1 on each side.careful or they will break.`then there are 4 screws on each side of the screen,when opened..they are under little rubber pucks.remove them and separate the 2 half's..Unplug the flex cable from the screen and carefully remove the screen and camera assembly.be carefully not to tear off the flex cables that hold the 3 buttons on the screen in..then if you'll turn the phone back over.where the battery goes in on the hinge .you'll see another screw.remove that and flip the phone over again.carefully pop the chrome hinge pin out.then you'll be able to separate the 2 half's.then there are 6 little metal tabs that hold the keyboard in place.pry them up and carefully remove the keyboard and flex cable.careful around the hinge,where the flex cable runs threw. now moving on to the modem, on the bottom you'll see 2 little plastic tabs carefully open them and remove the brass retaining wire and the modem will then come out..get your new covers and reverse this process and you'll be good to go.
Canon toner type GPR-6, correct? Open the front cover. Rotate lever to release toner/developer unit. Pull the unit straight out until it stops. Insert new cartridge to line up with top of toner/developer unit at a slight angle (lower at back) Once the cartridge stops at the rear (I would hold the toner/developer unit with one hand while inserting the cartridge) then lower the front end of toner cartridge down on top of the unit.....press down until toner cart. clicks into place. You will know because a tab pops out the front with clear plastic attatched. Pull the tab to release toner and release top of toner/dev. unit. Keep pulling until it stops. Wait about 7 seconds, now tap on toner cartridge to release all loose toner (don't forget to shake toner before opening) After about 15 seconds, toner should be fully loaded. Now push top cover of toner/developer unit back in until it latches, you will know because the empty cartridge releases from the unit. Now remove empty cartridge, reinsert unit, turn latch handle and close front cover.
I recently had the lens cover stick partly open. There are 4 segments to the lens cover, and if we number them from the top, number 2 was not closing. I gently flicked the segments a few times, in case there was a grain of dirt causing it to stick (although the camera has never been in a dirty or dusty environment). This caused the lens cover to close fully each time, but now it would not open fully, segment 1 would not open, although it would stay open if moved by finger. Anyway, after a bit of fiddling, I got it working properly again. The way that the lens cover appears to work is that only segments 2 and 3 are pushed open or shut by springs, segments 1 and 4 are pushed open and shut by tiny tabs that catch on segments 2 and 3. If the segments somehow get pushed out of alignment, then they either bind (causing the cover not to shut), or they get disconnected (causing the cover not to open fully. Now I am not sure exactly what I did to get the mechanism form the stuck open state to the not opening state, but from there the way to fix it is to: -With the lens open... - Hold segment 2 in the closed position with firm finger pressure (which will tend to push it towards the lens). - Push segment 1 towards the open position until you can see that it has cleared the edge of segment 2. - Lift segment 2 way from the lens so that it will rub past segment 1 as you... - Move segment 1 to the open position. - Repeat if necessary to get the technique right.
I can't provide any guarantees, and I am not about to repeat the excercise on my camera, but it was a lot easier than sending it off for repair.
The screw that holds the metal cover to the grid is hidden under the black Cuisinart piece on the top. There are 4 ears which lock it down. I'm not sure the best way to get them open, as I broke mine opening it. Looks like if you take a metal putty knife, and push toward the hinge from the handle, at the end of the radius at each side, it may pop off for you. The other two are about 3/4" off the back of the piece, and should get out of the way as you lift the front.
Now, does anyone know where to get a replacement black cuisinart piece?
Proceed at your own risk, this information is worth what you paid for it, and I broke mine in the process.
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