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If it is like mine, the plastic part attached to the float in the collection bucket is broken and no longer actuates the switch that indicates the collection bucket (holding tank) is full. When I checked several years ago, the replacement part was no longer available. I used tape to keep the switch in the position that allowed the dehumidifier to operate and attached the hose connector to allow the condensate to drain. The collection bucket isn't needed anymore with this arrangement.
Fortunately, it doesn't require a special hose, as a standard Garden Hose Connection is on the left side of the water collection bucket. You may have to carefully drill a 1/4 " hole in the center of the connection, once you unscrew the drain cap. The hose should be no longer than 5' , as the drainage relies entirely on gravity to drain.
When attaching the the hose, be sure that the female hose connection has a washer in it or it will leak. Hand tighten the hose connection firmly, being careful not to crack the plastic hose connection on the tank. Also, be sure that the float valve in the tank is in the DOWN. position or the unit will not run.
tank may be full. Your dehumidifier has a safety device that turns off
the dehumidifier when the water tank is full. Usually the tank itself
either presses against a switch or there's a device connected to the
tank that triggers a switch when the tank is in place and full.
you've emptied the tank and the unit doesn't run, inspect the place
where the tank rests to see if there's a switch or mechanism that's not
being activated. You may be able to turn it on with a simple flick of
The Main reasons that this will happen
1 - A bad run capacitor (silver or metal capacitor)
It’s either shorted, grounded or open.
If it’s shorted a lot of times it will bulge out, (sometimes slightly)
2 - A bad start kit ( plastic capacitor and Relay connected to it )
The capacitor is either shorted or open
The relay either has an open coil between terminals #1 and #5
Or the relay is stuck.
Any time you change the capacitor or relay you should change
the other, especially if they are over a year old.
3 - A loose, burnt or disconnected wire
4 - Wired wrong
5 Compressor is open (windings burnt open)
6 Low on charge not getting enough cooling back to compressor, (Feel top of compressor to see if it’s hot it shouldn‘t be)
7 Some compressors have a black plastic overload under the compressor cap which could be bad.
Most likely the fan motor has broken. Without the fan, the compressor will overheat. There is a safety device inside that automatically shuts off the compressor to keep the overheating from destroying it. Check to see if you can feel air movement in the front or back of the unit while it is running. If not, then the fan motor has definitely broke. I had this exact problem on mine.
If you take the unit apart, you will find a parts list inside the unit. It will be inside a small plastic pouch. You can order a new fan motor from Sears. The cost is $30 plus shipping.
You will have to move the condensing coil in the front out a bit in order to exchange the motors. Just be careful not to break any of the copper lines. They are copper so they will flex quite a bit without breaking. Still, use caution. If you break the lines, all the refrigerant will leak out and your unit will be useless.