I've had the evaporator fan and relay switch to the compressor replaced in the last 18 months. Now the compressor is very hot and you can hear it humming to turn on, followed by a click and then nothing.
I'm guessing that the compressor has gone out, but is there anything I can do to confirm?
Also, I am fairly handy. Is changing out the compressor a difficult undertaking? Any special tools needed?
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Re: Refridgerator/B-Freezer not cooling
System refrigerant must be recovered prior to any work done on replacing any part of the sealed system, Recovery unit required at about $750.00. After recovery the compressor lines must be disconnected by heating to a temperature above 1385°F, Torch required , cost about $350. The compressor electrical wires must be disconnected. The motor mounts must be disconnected by removing clips or bolts. The compressor can then be removed. The new compressor can now be installed and the mounts connected. The piping can be cleaned fluxed and re-soldered using a high temperature alloy such as #45 silver solder. #15 if the stub tubes of the compressor are copper. A new system filter/dryer must be installed. Electrical wires must be connected to the new compressor. A deep vacuum must be pulled on the system to remove and air , moisture and non-condensible gases for the internal system. Then you can charge the system by weight to the exact amount shown on the system name plate and the proper tyep of refrigerant.
So the answer is yes it is difficult and requires a good technician to be done properly.
If the unit is out of warranty it is not recommended that the compressor be replaced at you expense.
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Jason, MOST refrigerators get there cold from the freezer side and circulate it via a fan that's also normally inside the freezer. There are three motors normally in a refrigeration system. The inside Evaporator fan motor that circulates air across the evaporator coil inside the box, the Condenser fan motor near the compressor that cools the freon after compression, and the compressor itself. If you open the doors (and sometimes you may have to hold in the door switches) do you hear a fan running? If not you could have a couple things going on: 1. The fan(s) has failed. 2. The freezer Evap coil may of iced over and the fan too is frozen stopped. 3. Your condensing unit:(compressor, condenser fan, condenser coils) has a problem. It is important to know if the compressor itself is running. If there is a loose connection to the compressor via the start/over load relay (normally attaches directly onto the compressor), or if the start/over load otself is bad the compressor will not run. Best way to tell is via gauges but I doubt your frig has ports. Check to see if your compressor is really hot. Could be bad start/over load relay or bad compressor. Try unplugging your frig for say 30 min then, with your hand on top of a cool compressor, plug the frig back in and see if compressor smoothly vibrates for at least 5 min without becoming very hot or shutting off even though fan continues to run. The fact your fan is running TYPICALLY means the thermostat is calling for lower temps and the fan/compressor kick in together.
Hi - Typically freezers are not recommended to be located outside because if the garage temperature is above 100 degrees, it will have difficulties performing optimally due to un-circulating air. Some manufacturers have garage kit design to help with this issue. It is design to solely be used during the winter to provide heat to the coils which trigger the compressor to come on. During the summer months, generally it is not needed.
When was the last time you cleaned the condensers? You may do so by removing the toe grille and use extended vacuum attachment and condenser cleaning brush to remove dust buildup from condenser coils usually located on the left side underneath. If you hear the compressor running and if it is providing warm air then that means it is operating correctly and the sealed system is removing heat from the cabinet. Fan motor/evaporator may be the primary issue. However, if you do not hear the compressor and the unit is blowing room temperature then the unit may possibly have a sealed system leak, faulty compressor or overload relay. Contact a professional to move forward accurately from this point.
The clicking is caused by the clixon turning off power to over heated motor that is not starting. Check the condition of the starter cap or relay and change. If a good cap or relay does not start your compressor then the rotor is frozen and you need a new compressor. (ouch)
i don't know how old your fridge is but on older ge's if the evap fan motor was bad they wanted you to also change out the motor board.first thing unplug it,look at the board the newest boards have 7 relays on them,if yours doesn't i would change the board out,this is what powers everything in this machine,compressor,fans everything,so if i had this issue i would change out the board or it sounds like you could have a bad compressor but that would be new fridge time, part wr55x10942 now the newest board is wr55x10942p i haven't seen one of those yet but i looked up a fridge yesterday and saw that so they made more changes to this board.good luck
First try replacing the Relay for the system. If that doesnt work check/replace the pressure and temp switch on the drier. The 124 body style have issues with A/C overall so dont be too frustrated. Also in the short term try turning the temp wheel to max cold (blue dot) and restarting the car. Sometimes it will force the relay and compressor to lock on while driving. Also be aware if your Aux Electric fans dont come on the system doesnt get cooled properly and will not stay on. Good Luck.
. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start. Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. If the relay is ok there is a compressor problem or low freon it it don't start
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.
Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm
Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.
Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
well we have to do something about that,if you mention of fan spin and it pushes air but no cold enough on it,this refer to blower on compressor, there is fan on outside the condenser,so we are on blower w/c does not blow enough cold air,there are factors we can check,first thermostat try to adjust thermostat to the coldest point,
observed if cold was increasing if not, 2nd have clean the filter from evaporator it may have a clogged, check evaporator if there freezing ice on bottom portion of evaporator w/c cold was coming out,have it clean,cleaning this is done by certified a/c technician,there is problem if have an insufficient cold,this is the symptom of your system was under charge lack of freon,this can check by technician w/ clamp ammeter device.the operating current should be equal to rated current on manual,inform service center about this,have a nice day don't forget to rate me.thanks's