Question about Danby DPAC10031 Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Window kit Hello, As posted by others, the window kit is a bit difficult. If you size it to fit the window, you have to cover the holes for the exhaust. Someone said they cut the plastic. Is that what you are supposed to do? It is heavy plastic. What do you cut it with? The directions do not make sense. HELP! Our manual says Models DPAC10061 & DPAC120068 Thank you!

Posted by on

2 Answers

Hi, you do have to cut the plastic strip to fit - I spent an hour trying to reach "tech support" only to be told to cut it.....

Posted on Jun 14, 2008

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

Hey emlyn911,
I just purchased the Danby DPAC120068 and didn't come with a manual. Would you like to sell the manual to me.

ccanela@socal.rr.com

Posted on Jun 08, 2008

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Fit mud flaps to 2010 xr6 falcon ute


jack the vehicle up and place on a jack stand
remove the wheel
Hold the mud flap in position and mark the hole positions drill the holes using the correct size drill bit for the screws you are using ( should have come in the kit) fit screws
refit the wheel take of jack stand and go to other side and repeat process

Feb 18, 2015 | Ford Falcon Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Installation in a hole bigger than the unit, is there a flange kit or something that will help get it to fit?


yes there is a kit you can use. most diy shops that sell cooker fixings etc will have them. they usually stainless steel and you have to cut them to size you need. and make a square with it. backing with bits of wood to the size of the hole need to put the top on and the stainless steel to cover the wood that has been put in. you can make your own. by filling the hole with wood strips get from a timber yard or store have them cut the size you need. then fix them to the open part you need to fill. leave a lip ( this is to put the stainless steel to. check it all fits. then get the strips of metal to fill the hole making sure they the right size glue them down to the strips of wood you have put in then put the top on. jobs a good one. don't nail the wood in place put 4 good long screws in each piece of wood gives it strength then.

Oct 30, 2013 | GE 30 in. JP340 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

How do i know what size heli coil i need on my 4.6 e150 or how can i measure the size to know?


The best way is to measure a bolt of the same size and pitch as was fitted in that threaded hole. The specs are the same for both eg M10 x 1.5 or whatever. Then you can take this info, or better, the bolt itself, along and buy a helicoil kit to suit.

If it is for a spark plug hole, they will know immediately on seeing one of your spark plugs (there are 2 main sizes). It is probably also on the back of the kit packet.


The other way is to drill and tap out the hole for a larger size screw or bolt than you had to begin with. Generally you would use a tap drill for the next larger standard size thread.

May 30, 2012 | 1999 Ford F150 Regular Cab

2 Answers

WE WANT WINDOWS 7 EPSON PRINTER R230X


Epson Stylus Photo R230 6 Colour Inkjet Printer files Driver Printer Driver 6.52E
Windows 2000, Windows 7, Window Vista, Windows XP Posted: 24/11/2009

Click here Utilities Epson Easy Photo Print 2.23.01
Windows 2000, Windows 7, Windows 7 64-bit Edition, Window Vista, Windows Vista 64-bit Edition, Windows XP, Windows XP 64-bit Edition EPP_22301_EHKT.exe
Size: 82.83 Mb
Posted: 19/1/2011 Download

Feb 05, 2011 | Epson STYLUS R230 InkJet Photo Printer

3 Answers

Driver's window will not roll up. There is a clicking noise when I push the switch, but nothing moves. We've tried jumping the switch with a paperclip, with no result. The window controller was recently...


The sound is the motor turning the winding cylinder for the regulator (the module which contains the steel cables which lift and lower the window) with a cable broken. Only solution is to replace the regulator. Not too difficult but somewhat tedious to do.

If you are going to do this yourself, get your camera and take pictures of each step before you do it. Referring to a workshop manual will be an immense help.

The door panel is held on by screws and plastic ribbed posts which stick into "grabbers." The door pull/handhold has plastic covers on each end. Gently squeeze these covers toward their middle to push the gripping cleats away from the edges. Using a pair of vice grips and setting the opening just enough to squeeze but not crush works best. Do not pry off with a screwdriver or you will have to replace the cover. Screws are behind these covers.

The window control panel pulls forward and up to remove. Pry carefully, gently. Do not force the plastic around the door handle. It does not need to come off. The foam rubber behind the handle moves around. Reset it when you put the door panel back on. Once all the screws are out, pull sharply along the edges of the door panel until the panel snaps off. If you break the plastic pins which hold the door in place, use 2 part epoxy to rebind them. Take the window control unit out of the door panel- don't disconnect, just twist to side through the opening. Slide the door panel toward the front of the car to clear the door handle. Gently.

Set the door panel aside. The inside of the door is covered with a thin foam plastic sheet. Carefully pull this back, removing it if you can, peeling it back if you can't. You will need to use some spray adhesive to stick it back in place when you close up the panel. Remove the radio speaker- stick the screws on the magnet on the back of the speaker. Pull the wires off the speaker carefully. Set it aside where it won't be holed by accident.

The wiring harnesses are held in place by plastic serrated pins fitted into holes in the door. Snap/pry them out carefully. The wires are wrapped with plastic electrical tape. If you pull hard and the pins come unstuck from the wires, simply retape them in place. A photo is good to help remember how to put the wires back in place.

Remove the plastic window frame on the bottom of the window- pry it up with a thin tool like a dry wall compound spreader (narrow one,) Set it aside.

You are now faced with a multitude of rivets. The easiest way to get them out is to drill out the center, widening the center hole as you do. You don't have to drill the hole completely as wide as the rivet, just enough to get the center out. Then place a chisel beneath the rivet head and hit it with a hammer to cut the head off the rivet. The rivet is aluminum and will cut off easily it the hole is bored out well (a little oversize hole helps.) The inside portion of the rivet will fall into the door. Pick them out or they will rattle later.) To repIace the rivets, I use a small bolt set which Harbor Freight company sells. There are enough bolts and nuts in it (approx 1/8 in or 5 mm-I think) to replace the rivets nicely. it is a small box of various sized bolts/nuts. Any short (1/2 inch) bolt and nut which fits the holes will work.

Remove all the rivets. Take out the screws holding the motor to the regulator. Photograph or mark how the triangular plate fits into the door and where the motor is oriented. It is easy to put the motor back on in the wrong position. The upper portion of the regulator is held on by two rivets at the top of the door. Once they are removed the holder which connects the upper part of the regulator is free. You cannot get the regulator out without taking the window out of the door. Stand facing the door edge and put your hands on opposite sides of the window glass. Manipulate it, rotate it, etc until you can pull it out. Be careful! Break the glass and you have to go to a junkyard or glass shop.

Pull out the motor and regulator. Note how they fit together. Put new regulator in same position. It you are not very, very careful with the new regulator, you can unwind the cables on it and they are a real pain to get right again. (The cables are counter wound so when one goes out the other winds in.) I usually put a piece of wire into the holes to lock the wires in place until I can fit the motor on it. Put the regulator into the door. Put the motor and the triangular plate into the door opening and set them in place on the regulator. You will have to figure out how the pieces go together inside the door- the access is limited and space is tight. Here is where a photo of the unit before it was uninstalled is valuable. You might have to put it in and out more than once to get it in right. Next replace rivets with small bolts and nuts with lock washers. Small hands help (but it is'nt a one person job.) Forceps also are an aid. You have to find the best way to get the nuts on for you. I used tape on the bolts on the top of the door to hold them in place until I could fit the frame in place and get the bolts and washers on.

When you have the regulator and motor in place- DO NOT TIGHTEN ALL THE BOLTS until you fit the window in place. It needs to move against the regulator and the guides to go into place. Then you can tighten up all the bolts.

Turn on ignition and test window. If in place properly (don't forget to put the bottom window frame back on and tap it into place) the window should slide up and down without binding. If it binds, is slow, hesitates, jerks, squeals or in other ways doesn't act normally, get back into the door and see where it is installed wrongly (I got the first regulator I put in all fouled up and had to buy another and install it!) Now when all is smooth, tighten up all nuts and screws.

Put the plastic shield into place and position but to not push into place the wiring support pins. Pull back the plastic and spray the back of the plastic with adhesive spray- Use good quality spray from auto store, not hobby stuff. Push, pull, stretch plastic until it fits. Reinstall wiring, radio speaker, etc. Be sure you have ventilation, the adhesive solvents are not to be breathed- Any pulmonary problem, wear a high quality face mask with cheek filters.

Wait until adhesive is dry before putting door back together. Put window control panel up through opening but do not snap into place. Position panel using plastic pins for placement. Push, pound with heel of hand, the panel until it snaps in place. It should go in nicely without a lot of force. Repace screws. (the screws inside the door pocket do not hold anything except the padded cover in place.) Check fit.

Place window control panel in place and snap it in. Replace covers over screws on door handhold- they might have to be spread a little to make sure they click into place- especially if they are cold (warm them up if they are stiff.)

You are done.

Depending on how fast you cut the rivets and unscrewed the regulator assembly, this is 4-5 hour job for the first timer. Take your time, get it right. Don't do it when you are tired or you will break something. Use epoxy to fix plastic parts. If its under the door panel, elegance doesn't matter, function does.

Dec 06, 2010 | 2000 Lincoln Town Car

1 Answer

How to remove a casement window from cinder block wall and replace it with a slide window


Depends on the window, how it went in, will tell you how to get it out. They usually have a flange that nails to the wall and the siding will but up against it, some have a fin that nails up against a buck and plaster will **** up against it. Either way, you will have to remove the siding, plaster, trim, or whatever is on the side of the window and pull out the 1400 nails, take out the window, and get the new slider right back in the old hole, it should fit, most windows were standard, now days they are all custom fit to any size hole. But the bucks should still be in place and the drywall on the inside will not even be touched.

Nov 09, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

How do I replace a rusted out threaded grease fitting on my omc 165 i/o? I bought new fittings but now the hole is too big.


You will need to purchase a Heli Coil kit. This kit will allow you to drill the hole to a larger size, then a special tap in the kit will rethread the hole to a special thread size, then the helical (threaded insert) will be installed into the larger hole, restoring the threaded size back to what it once was. Great tool, used it many many times.

Aug 22, 2010 | Boating

1 Answer

Has anybody found a manual for the Amana AP095R?


The included piece is not a template, but rather the piece the vent tube clips to. One side slides into the other and that allows for it being placed in windows of varying widths. I too had your problem with a casement window. I used a piece of plexiglass and screwed the round part to it and voila it worked. With my setup I was able to close the window (Pella). I later moved it to a double hung and cut the plexiglass to size. when we go out we remove it from the window. Easy peachy japaneasy.

Jul 18, 2009 | Amana AP095R Portable Air Conditioner

2 Answers

I have a Danby DPAC10071 and am trying to install the vertical window installation kit. I don't understand how I'm supposed to put in the sliders without covering the holes that allow the air to come in...


I eventually just gave up and cut off a piece of one of my extensions. Not sure if there's a better method, but that worked just fine for me. Plus, I still have the other, full sized one for when I want to move the AC to the patio door.

May 03, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

I'm confused by the window kit - help


You will have to cut the slider to fit. It comes extra long in case you want to install it length-wise (up and down) in a sliding door.

Jun 23, 2007 | Danby DPAC120061 Portable Air Conditioner

Not finding what you are looking for?
Danby DPAC10031 Air Conditioner Logo

Related Topics:

373 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Danby Heating & Cooling Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

Dennis Boxerman

Level 3 Expert

954 Answers

mintvl

Level 1 Expert

5 Answers

Are you a Danby Heating and Cooling Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...