Question about Whirlpool LEQ9858P Electric Dryer

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Leq9508 whirlpool dryer

I checked the terminal on the hi-limit t'stat and the TCO and got normal readings of about 1 ohm. when I checked the heater element across the tabs i got no movement at all. If i understand your post the heater element is the reason my dryer is not functioning properly, the drum turns but there is no heat. where do i go from here?
thanks.

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The heating element should read 9 to 13 ohms. Double check again and make sure you disconnect the terminal wires before taking the reading to eliminate the possiblity of parallel resistance. If the readings are not within the tolerance listed, replace the heating element.

Posted on Jun 09, 2008

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1 Answer

Will run but will not heat up


Most likely a bad heating element and or bad thrmostats. you'll need to check these by ohming out after removing the rear panel to your dryer.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

It keeps running non-stop but wont heat up


Your temperature thermostat or heater coil is most likely bad, you can test by ohming each. NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool LEB6300 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do I get to my heating coils in my whirlpool dyer model WED550SQ0, from the back or the top


The heating circuitry for this model dryer is located in the rear of the dryer. Simply unplug the dryer and remove the exhaust vent hose. Loosen all the screws around the perimeter of the rear panel and remove. The heating element will be located on the right hand side inside the heater box. On the outside of the heater box will be two components, the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) and the Hi-Limit Thermostat. The TCO will be located on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. These two components work in conjunction to regulate the temperature of the heating element. Both these components should read 0 ohms if good. If one of these components goes bad, you must replace BOTH of them at the same time (replacement kit part number 279816). Failure to do so can result in premature failure of any parts you replace. The heating element will read 9 to 13 ohms if good. The reason I mention this is because many people assume they have a bad heating element if the dryer does not heat. In the majority of the situations, however, it turns out to be a bad TCO.

NOTE: Make sure you take all resistance checks with the dryer unplugged and the components leads disconnected to isolate from any paralllel resistance paths.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you. For more information, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

If you've already determined you have a defective heating element, that is great. I just wanted to include this information just in case.

Oct 07, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

No heat but dryer runs


First verify 220 volts of power to the dryer at the wire terminal where the cord hooks up. Look for a loose or burned connection here also. If power is OK,ohm the TCO and hi-limit thermostat on the heater canister. Ohm the heater. No ohm reading on any of these parts replace them.

Sep 29, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore 110.62822100, I measure 240 VAC from the Wall Plug and 240 VAC on the terminal Block, I also measure power to the Heating element, but still NO HOT Air.


Having proper voltage to the terminal block and heating element is a start. You need to perform resistance checks on your Thermal Cut-Out (TCO), Hi-Limit Thermostat and Heating Element with the dryer unplugged to determine the cause of your no heat problem. The following link explains how to troublehshoot a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

NOTE: The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat are located on the outside of the heater box. The TCO is mounted at the opposite end of the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element terminals. Both these components should read a short (0 ohms) if good. If either of these components is bad, it is strongly recommended that you replace BOTH at the same time to prevent premature failure. That's why these parts are commnly sold together as a kit.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 29, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

How do I get to the thermal fuse on Whirlpool electric dryer LER4634EQ0


All the heating and temperature control components are located in the back of the dryer. To access, unplug the dryer and remove the exhaust vent hose. Turn the the dryer around so you can view the back and remove the back panel. With the panel removed, the component locations are as follows:

Right-Hand Side:

1. Heating element - located inside the heater box. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is about 9 to 13 ohms.

2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

3. Hi-Limit Thermostat - located on the outside of the heater box adjacent to the heating element terminals. It works in conjunction with the TCO to help regulate the drum internal temperature. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, it is recommended that you replace BOTH components to prevent premature failure. These two components are commonly sold as a set.

Left-Hand Side:

1. Thermal Fuse - located on the blower fan housing. It is a small white plastic looking component with two wires attached. If defective, the dryer will not run at all. If the component is good it should read a short (0 ohms).

2. Internal Bias Thermostat - located on the blower fan housing adjacent to the Thermal Fuse. It has four wires attached to it.

NOTE: All resistance checks should be performed with the component terminal wires disconnected to prevent false readings.

If you have any questions, you can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you. The components I mention are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat replacement kit
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat sold separately
Item 17 - Heating Element
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Internal Bias Thermostat

If you need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 23, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer running but not heating


The thermal cut-out (TCO) and Hi-Limit Thermostat are the two additional items you need to check for a no heat problem. The Hi-Limit thermostat is small round component located near the terminal leads of the heating element on the heater box. The TCO will be located at the opposite end of the heater box and is similar in shape and size. Both components should read a short (0 ohms) if good. There is a drawing you can refer to at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Bulkhead" heading for item number 6. These components are often sold as a set and should be replaced at the same time. Do not get the TCO confused with the Thermal Fuse (item 19). If the Thermal Fuse were bad, the dryer would not run at all. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

PS Before you jump headlong into this repair job, did you verify the voltage at the wall receptacle? You should read 220-240VAC across the two hot terminals. If you are only reading 110-120VAC, this will give you the same symptoms as the dryer drive motor only uses 120VAC to run, while the heating circuits require the full 220. You need to check the voltage at the receptacle and at the terminal block in the back of the dryer to verify the power cord is good.

Feb 20, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Heating element not getting hot


If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the heating element on this model is easy to get to. Follow these steps:

First, make sure you have the correct voltage at the wall receptacle and at the terminal block in the back of the dryer of 220-240VAC. If the voltage requirements are not correct, this can cause the heating circuits not to function, but the drum will still rotate. To access the dryer heating circuits, follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer before servicing. Dangerous voltages are still present inside the dryer with the unit turned off.
2. Remove the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.
3. Remove the back panel by loosening all screws holding the panel in place.
4. The heater box will be located on the right-hand side (as viewed from the rear). The heating element is housed inside the heater box with the Hi-Limit Thermostat located the closest to the heatet terminal and the Therm Cut-Out (TCO) located at the top end of the heater box.
5. Measure the TCO, first. This is the first likely cause of a no heat problem. A good TCO should read a short (0 ohms). 6. A measurement across the heating element should read about 15 ohms or less if good.
NOTE: Remove the wire leads from any components under test to ensure a proper reading. If any readings are abnormal, replace the component.

Illustrations of your dryer are available at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look for item number 6, 15 and 17 under the "Bulkhead" heading. Repairclinic.com and appliancepartspros.com are also excellent sources for finding parts.

If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jan 14, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer


If you go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number in the Search menu, then look under the "Bulkhead" menu option, you will see an illustration of your dryer. You will need to remove the heater box cover (item #5) to get to the heating element. The element should slide out of the bottom of the heater box housing. Removing the housing from the dryer first makes it easier. Sometimes you may need a little muscle in getting the heater coil to come out.

Have you checked the thermal cut-out(TCO)/hi limit thermostat? This is item #1 in the drawing. If your dryer runs, but does not heat, this is normally the culprit. You are right to assume you could have a heating element problem, but the element tends to be more resilient. In my experience with electric dryers, the thermal cut-out tends to go bad first. It's easier to check and easier to replace as it is mounted on the outside of the heater box. Check for the following:

With the heater box STILL installed, the TCO will be a small component mounted at the top of the heater box housing. The hi-limit thermostat will be mounted at the bottom of the heater box housing next to the ceramic terminal of the heating element. With the dryer UNPLUGGED, disconnect the wires to the TCO and do a resistance reading. It should read 0 ohms if good. Do the same with the hi-limit thermostat. It should also read 0 ohms if good. Last of all perform a reading across the leads of the heating element with the wires unplugged. You should get a reading of 9 - 13 ohms if it is good. If you determine the TCO or hi-limit thermostat to be bad, it is HIGHLY recommended that you replace them BOTH at the same time. They are sold as a set (part #279769). Failure to replace both components could result in part failure. The part number for the heating element is 4391960. I hope this helps you.

Mar 17, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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