Question about GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

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Electric convection oven keeps on producing heat

My KitchenAid electric convection oven keeps on producing heat, although no program (bake, broil, roast) has been selected.
Pressing the Cancel control does not change a thing. After a while the fan goes on, which is normal behavior since I never started the oven in the first place, and the system understands that the oven must be cooled down.


Any idea what could be the cause of the problem?

Thank you for your help.

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  • rougegorge Jul 03, 2008

    Thanks for your input.

    I did notice that the part of the ceiling of the oven whereto the broiler element is attached is detaching on one side (maybe due to some rust). It's definitely a hole in the oven. I pushed it up to put it back in place but it keeps falling. I am not sure if it is welded or screwed somehow. I cannot see much.

    Is it worth fixing?



  • Anonymous Jul 24, 2008

    the F2 message is beeping non stop after the oven clean has been on for 2+ hours. Pressing Clear does not work

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The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
Thanks....

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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Probably a burnt out element shorting out to the frame. When the oven is on does the element glow evenly the entire length. Are there visible holes or pieces missing? The contactor could also be sticking.

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

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