Question about GE GSH22SGRSS Side by Side Refrigerator

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Refrig is not working

Last month freezer and refrig were not working.
and I opened back of freezer and I melted all frost with the dryer.
and replaced defrost heater and thermostat.
and it worked fine again.
yesterday I noticed it made strange sound
and today refrig isn't working not cool at all. but freezer works fine.
light's on though.
what should I do? please help me.

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  • Anonymous Aug 18, 2008

    Same problem, have emptied ice cube tray that had overloaded and I think blocked the cold air flow into refrig. as that is how fridge is cooled, I am now letting the unit warm so as to defrost any internal ice buildup to melt. Waiting for now.

    JO

  • Anonymous Jan 21, 2009

    freezer works fine but refrigerator side not cooling

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1 Answer

Trash it

Posted on Jul 12, 2008

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Frig has suddenly become warmer than usual. Freezer is at 20 degrees and frig at 60. Tried to vacuum coils but very dificult to reach them underneath the unit. Any other hints?


what the problem most likely is a failed part of the defrost system Do you see a bunch of frost built up on the back wall of the freezer? If you do frost build up, take off the back wall of the freezer and replace the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. A hair dryer could be used to melt the built up frost from the coil behind the back wall. Another part that will cause frost build up is the defrost control, that isn't the freezer behind the back wall but instead it is part of the main computer board on the back of the refrig. I would replace heater/defrost thermostat first though, since they are the most likely to fail parts.

I hope my answer will help you to fix your refrigerator,
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thats what it will do when nothing frozen is in the freezer,you should hear the defrost heater popping if theres frost or ice melting off the evaporator coil in the rear area of the freezer its working ok

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I have a GE side by side refrigerator, model GSL85JFPHBS. It sstopped working altogether last month. first the refrigerator stopped working, two day later the freezer part stopped working. I had someone...


I think you meant you have a GSL25JFPHBS (not 85).
It sounds like you have a defrost problem. If your refrig. was off for some time, like a day or more, or it was manually defrosted, it would work for about 2 weeks before the problem would re-occuer. This is caused by a build up of frost on the cooling coils, preventing air flow over them. Un-load the freezer and remove shelves and the back wall inside the freezer. Melt the frost with a hair blower, and replace the defrost heater (part # WR51X10055) and for good measure, replace the defrost thermistor (part # WR55X10025) located at the top of the cooling coils.

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If you don't have the parts on hand, defrosting only will get your refrig working again for several days, while you obtain the parts.
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Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working ok . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrig side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and foreward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly thru the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired togather and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

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There is a good chance that the evaporator on the refrigerator side is frosted up due to a faulty thermal fuse or sensor or both. Since these units have more than one evaporator, there is no damper to get stuck.

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Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

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1 Answer

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How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.

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