a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
First off this is really a 2 person job. You need to make sure there are no air bubbles trapped inside the brake lines. Connect a tube to the bleeder valve and submerse the end of that tube under a container of brake fluid.... As you push down on your pedal you should see bubbles coming out of the tube. Keeping pumping on the brake pedal until no more bubbles come out.
Guide a piece of flexible airline tubing up to the top inside and suck the air out. You might not be able to get it all, but getting most of it should work. A decent amount of water flow once the system is turned on will usually remove the little bubble you might not have been able to get out.
Be aware that u-tubes are not fool proof. If the siphon breaks during a power outage, which will usually happen when you aren't home if you are a salt water aquarium keeper, when the power comes back on your pump empties your sump, probably over flows the tank, and then the pump runs dry and burns out or seizes/melts.
I would definitely consider a re-design of drilling a hole in your tank at the surface, especially if it is acrylic, cautiously and very slowly if it is glass, or redesigning the overflow system so it has a long enough u-tube and deep enough reservoir so it can not possibly empty during a power outage.
Yes there is a filter. Pull up on the fuel line, or the rubber grommet that goes into the tank with the fuel line through it. There were different types of filter used. One is inside a black plastic tube. You can pick it out of the tube with a pick. Another style is located on top of the tank and is of white plastic. Your fuel delivery problem may be air related. The air pump is on the back of the blower motor, and meters a set volume of air to **** the fuel out of the tank and blow it through the nozzle. This air pressure is stated on the data plate on your heater, probably about 3.6 psi. The air filters on the air pump could also be dirty causing the air output to be reduced, and thus low fuel flow. Also check for air leaks at the pump. Spray soapy water on the black plastic cover and look for bubbles, which are of coarse air leaks.
Are the jets open? The center of the jets turn to adjust the pressure of the jets. If this is not the problem, there may be a problem with the impeller in the pump assembly. If you here the pump turning and not buzzing, it could be an air bubble in the suction tube. This tube is the one coming from the front of the pump, if the pump is higher than the tube coming from the tub, or if there is a high spot in the tube, an air bubble is a real possibility. If the tube is level with the pump, there should be no problem with air bubbles and the problem lies in the top part of this paragraph.
Find the plug for the pump and plug it in ( tub full of water), if the pump works,the problem is in the contol box or switch. if the pump/motor has a plastic tube coming out of a black box, and the pump still does not work when plugged in, it is most likely the air switch connected to that plastic tube on the pump. the switch is avaliable online and not to hard to replace if you are mechanically inclined.
You need to get the pump "primed" with water going through it.
If the machine is new or has not been used in a long time, the plastic feed tube(s) in the reservoir will be dry. You have to get the water to slowly creep up these tubes until it hits the pump inside, then the water/steam will come out the head and will keep coming out each time you use it until it dries out again.
I've had to re-prime my Via Veneto several times, and each time it seems like I'm doing it wrong and the machine is broken. But follow these steps and you'll get there.
1. Fill the reservoir with water and put the two tubes in it. 2. Turn on the boiler button (left-most of the two narrow ones) 3. Don't put the portafilter on, just leave the head bare. 4. Turn on the pump and let it run. Watch the water level in the plastic tubes. Understand that at this point, the pump is just pumping air, which it is not designed to do efficiently. As it pumps the air it slowly draws water up the tubes. Really slowly. 5. You can speed this up by putting a cup under the steam tube and opening the steam valve. This is while the brewing pump is still on. You will have hot water squirting out of the steam tube. You may see the water moving more quickly up the tubes. 6. The pump may have to run for several minutes. You'll get impatient and scared something is wrong, but just let it run. You'll see the water creep up the tube and go into the unit. Soon afterward pressurized water will start spraying out of the head.
Now, keep it primed for months by keeping water in the reservoir. If you use it only infrequently, run the pump and at least get some water moving every week or so.
I've tried silly things like holding the tubes upside down, trying to get water forced up into them, but in the end, just let the pump do the work and be patient.
A good operating pump will fill the tubes in 2 seconds. Sometimes the spring loaded check ball in the pump assembly (brass tube) gets stuck. It can be unstuck by disasdsembly or high pressure air application.Unplug unit before opening the top or any inspection. The brass tube unscrews from the angle fitting, then release the rubber mount by depressing the white tab and slide it out. Note slowly and carefully the positions of springs, ball, plastic plunger and rubber washers.Look closely at the holder for the brass tube and you will see that it releases with a push and turn. The white plastic spring retainer in the brass tube unscrews with small forseps or two toothpicks. That spring should be weak and you should just be able to blow a little air by mouth (one way) through the tube if assembled correctly. I use a toothpick to push the stuck plastic valve out and scrape the calcified deposits off..