I took apart the pot to give it a good cleaning. After I put it back together, it now shorts (and blows the house fuse) when the heating element is turned on. Wires appear to all be connected correctly with grounding wire.

At minimum, brand and model would be useful in finding a user manual for this. If you know such, you might try googling the manufacturer's support page. The best alternative is to resubmit the query with the brand and model listed. There might even be a YouTube about disassembly of this product or repair of it.

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dead short in element
call an electrician to check /replace

make this test and fix it. God bless you

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating elements faulty, replace it.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the cover .The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and replace it

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

We have a dryer ( could be any make! ) that is consistently blowing fuses after about 15-20 minutes. We have taken the dryer apart to check for clogs in the venting system and to check if the heating core was okay and they seem to be fine. Any ideas?

Blowing the house fuses? If yes....the dryer usually will blow a fuse right away if there is a problem in the dryer....more often than not a fuse that blows after the dryer has been running a while it is a fuse box issue. A test: Put 2 new 30 amp fuses in and run the dryer with the heat on for 5-10 minutes, turn off the dryer and quickly remove the fuses from the house fuse box and see if they are hot at all ( especially on the bottom )....if the fuses are getting hot they are probably melting the fuse link and not really blowing = fuse box problem.

As for most things there are exceptions....a grounded heating element -may- blow the fuse after the dryer has been on for a while, it is easy to test for that as well. See. A burnt/loose power cord/plug -may- also give this type of a problem.

Dryer basics- Venting problems and power supply:
Most dryer "to long to dry" or "poor/low heat" complaints can be traced back to a bad or poor venting system and sometimes a poorly maintained lint filter. Do not go outside and put your hand under the vent opening and say " it is fine - I feel air coming out"...that is not good enough...take your venting apart, clean it ALL out and make sure the vent hood flapper works and that it is not clogged with lint. Make sure your venting system is short, straight and resistance free as possible. A poor venting system will shorten the life of your dryer, plug up the fan blower and duct work inside your dryer as well.
Gas dryers need 120 volts to operate the whole dryer. Electric dryers need 240 volts to operate the heating element and 120 volts to operate the timer and motor. You should see 240 volts between the black and red wires, 120 volts between the red and white wires, 120 volts between the black and white wires at the electric dryer main power harness. A blown house fuse ( or breaker ) would stop a gas dryer from working at all. A blown house fuse ( or a 1/2 tripped breaker ) would still allow the electric dryer to run but you would get no heat. Depending on which fuse goes, sometimes the dryer could be dead as well. If you have problems with a fuse letting go or a breaker tripping after the dryer runs for a while, normally the problem is not in the dryer but is in the fuse box.i think it will work

Sounds like you hava a venting problem. Disconnect the vent on the back and see if it still gets hot.

If it gets hot when the dryer is not on, then the heating element coil is shorting out on the element pan.


Hope that all helps.

you'll need a meter to read out your parts,if you read out the heater you would of known it was good and wouldn't of had to change it,check the thermal fuse located on the blower wheel housing,if your lint filter is inside the fuse is in the front,if it's on top the fuse is in the back,also if it is the thermal fuse you probably need a clean out,clean the duct out where the lint filter slides into,vac out the inside of the dryer and clean out the vent line if it's a long run blow it out with a leaf blower,makw sure the outside flapper is blowing fully open you should clean out the dryer like this every year so you don't have a fire

you may have shorted you thermal fuse. or the overload that is attached to the element housing. Good luck.

you need to check the heating element and the thermal fuse in the back of the dryer, they should be their. do you have an ohme meter, if not barrow one or you can pick one up cheep and lowes or homedepo .

Underneath the hot pad that the carafe sits on, there are two thermal fuses that are inside tubes that are clamped to the heating element with spring clamps.

Remove the bottom of the unit (5 screws), unclamp the thermal fuse tubes, slide the tubes to one side and check the each fuse with an ohmmeter. If one of them is open, that's your problem.