We are looking at a c-44 gas machine that had the board changed but it fires for several seconds then the delay and starts again for several seconds-then the delay and starts again running for several seconds and then it drops out.
sometimes it will spark then a bang a slight delay and sparks and then a bang again--is it possible one of the gas valves are getting stuck .
The flue is clear-no warter in the pan below-good vent above unit--the blower motor is working-even tried blocking off some flow.
the cover is sealed and on tight-could it be the new board is bad.
could the valves modulate mechanically from a spring problem and the 24 volt coil is ok-it was checked and it is ok.
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That water pressure is fairly marginal for a machine without a booster pump.
I'd be looking to cleanout the debris strainer in the water supply: you may have a separate strainer, it may be at the inlet side of the water valve, it may be in the form of a mesh at either end of the fill hose.
If your water is hard, there may be a restriction formed by limescale at the boiler outlet.
I think this board requires coding to your particular model?? your dishwasher has four selection button and a delay start, whereas the module has five selections and delay as it is used in several different modesl. The coding info should have been in the box with the part and may need to be carried out directly on the module with the fascia panel removed. If you post the part number of the module I will see if I can get you the coding information..
The WM-1D does not have any internal heating devices. You have to supply the machine with the proper water temp. It has two fill valves, one for wash and one for rinse. It should have 150F supplied to the wash fill valve and 180F to the rinse fill valve.
If it is new, would you not call Hobart for a warranty call? 1-800-444-4764 to reach the nearest branch in Canada.
Seeing it's new it is most probably not programmed correctly. On the control board is factory jumper J5, short thse two pins and press ON on keyboard. when the display shows ty remove short. pressing select on the CB will change the options, pressing up arrow will incriment the change options. first setting is machine type= AS,second is id, hot/cold or plain AM15 only, select H,C,or P.
3rd is tc,auto temp control. The rest will not affect your condition. Press OFF on keyboard to save and exit.
This is what I found in the manual...and on a couple of other sites....
Machine won't fill or won't fill high enough(LX18, LX30 display shows "E0," "E2," "E3," or "E4")
1.Low water pressure — check for clogged hose strainer; check that site water pressure meets minimum flow pressures. 2.Make sure probes are clean. 3.No water pressure — main water supply valves may not be working. 4.Drain
valve open - turn machine off to drain machine, then on. Repeat twice
(this assists in clearing any drain valve obstructions). Wait for
machine to reach READY mode and press WASH. Slowly open door several
seconds later and note water level. Close door; 30 seconds later, open
door slowly and check that water level is the same as it was. If not,
repeat the OFF-ON procedure. 5. Delime machine.
If this doesn't help let me know and I will get to the bottom of it....good luck and thanks for rating my effort...The Fang.
I'm not a Hobart technician, but here what I founded in my manual for the LX30 error message:
LX18 / LX30 display shows E0, E2, E3 or E4
1. Low water pressure - check for clogged hose strainer; check that site water pressure meets minimum flow pressures.
2. Make sure probes are clean
3. No water pressure - main water supply valves may not be working
4. Drain valve open - turn machine OFF to drain machine, then ON. Repeat twice (this assists in clearing any drain valve obstructions). Wait for machine to reach READY mode and press WASH. Slowly open door several seconds later and note water level. Close door; 30 seconds later, open door slowly and check that water level is the same as it was. If not, repeat the OFF-ON procedure. If problem persists, call your local Hobart Service Office.
what temp is it washing at. washing should not be the problem. This machine is designed to rinse at 180 degrees + to sanitize dishes. The machine could be converted to a chemical sanitize, it would use bleach in the rinse water instead of 180 degree water to sanitize.
The rinse thermistor is bad,look on the back of the machine to the right and you will see 2 black wires with a plug that screws into the vac breaker this is the probe.I bet when the dishwasher goes into the rinse cycle the temp jumps all over,let me know.