After running about 30 minutes, the fan motor gets too hot and quits. Doesn't run to full capacity on 2 settings, high and turbo. This air conditioner is similar setup to mine. Need to know if the motor is shot and needs replaced or something to do with the control module or something else I'm missing. Thank you for your time and consideration.
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Bad fan motor. Multi-speed motors have a set of windings for each speed. Your high speed is bad so the only solution is to replace the complete motor. When motors are going bad they will over heat and kick out on the heat safety. As it cools back down it will start again for a short time again until it gets hot again.
Remove green (fan run) wire from thermostat, and connect to red wire (power) and see if fan runs, and if it will stay running. That will by-pass thermostat to see if it is problem. If it continues to run, thermostat is problem. If that doesn't cure it, I'd remove cover up top and with power off at circuit breaker, blow compressed air in to motor air holes to make sure it's getting proper air for cooling, as well look for small plastic plug on housing where oil can be added ( few drops) to lubricate motor. Leave cover off and try fan to see if that may help. If at all possible, a clamp on amp meter will confirm if motor or relay is at fault if none of these suggestions help. If amp draw at motor too much, motor may be seizing when warmed up from running. test draw when first started and after running for amount of time that it usually quits, and if noticeable difference, motor is seizing and needs replace. You can also test amp draw at main 120v feed wiring with unit just in fan mode.
Yes, if you changed the three post capacitor that runs the fan and compressor, and the fan is still getting hot and shutting down until it cools off, you may have bushings out of the motor or an internal short. Sounds like you have a job ahead of you of changing your condenser motor. If you do this yourself just contact me I will step you through it . Mark
Replace the fan motor and capacitor. If you want to go the cheaper route, change the capacitor first and try to run the unit. The cap. is what gets the fan motor running on start up. Another way to test it is to manually turn the fan bade and while it's still turning, make sure your hands are clear of the blades and turn the condensor on. If the fan runs normally, then it's your fan capacitor.
Service your unit completely and then check the following. 1. Thermostat setting must be minimum +3 degree from your temp. 2. Check room temp sensor 3. Check your out door unit fan motor. (If the outdoor fan runs with less rpm the compressor will get cut off by overload protector)
Bearings in the motor may need oiling. look for a tiny funnel hole on a tube on the ends to oil it. Remove power first. If none it could be permanently sealed and need to replace the motor. Let it cool before touching anything. again remove power first.
Is the condenser fan (outside) turning? You mention that it's hot but don't say if it's turning or not.
These fan motors normally run pretty hot, but not so much that they shut down due to internal thermal overload protectors.
Both the compressor and the fan have termperature overload protectors to keep them from burning out the motor in the event of an overheated condition. The condenser fan must be running or high freon pressure will put an excessive load on the compressor and it will 'kick out' the high-temp overload protector.
Turn off the unit by pulling the outside disconnect (in a small box near the outside compressor unit) or flip the AC breakers in the breaker box. Wait about 30 minutes for the unit to cool off and turn it back on. If the compressor and fan both run for awhile then kick back off, or the fan motor seems to be working under excessive strain, you've probably got a bad motor start condenser (inside the unit) that little round can that is connected through the fan motor wiring. If it's swollen or leaking, it's almost surely defective and even if it's not, excessive load on the motor is a classic sign of a bad start condenser.
You can usually find these at electrical supply stores, well-stocked hardware stores, or most certainly at an HVAC parts house. Be sure to replace the old one with one of the EXACT same value (in voltage and Microfarads (mF) capacity. The shape may be a little different, but as long as the electrical characteristics are the same and is rated at the same or higher voltage than the original, it will work.
Connect the new condenser, mount it to the frame, and restart the unit. This should take care of the problem.
is this a split residential system. it sounds like you are talking about the condenser fan either way it seems like the fan is overamping and tripping on thermal overload which is a device in the motor that protects itself. when you shut it off for a while and turn it back on does the fan work. if you turn it off then turn it right back on does the fan work. when it shuts off is the motor really hot. if possible, and you know how, check amp draw. typically you can find the rated amp draw on the motor nameplate.
Chech the fans rotation , the fan is suppose to blow air out the top, also if you changed the fan out ,check for the blade on right, its suppose to scoop the air from the inside and blows it out the top,, also replace the capicator...sounds to me like the motors getting too hot and tripping on internal ly high temp. Hey, slow down "Big Money"! The problem is around the fan location! Thank-you-very-much!