By the time I recieved info, I'd already removed the intake valve, removed some debris from the screen, and was ready to test the movement of the solinoid valve. Right now,I can blow a little air thru either end while applying AC, and it stops tight w/o AC. If this is normal, I'll reasemble the unit. At least I was able to vacuum much insulation that a resident mouse had deposited on the floor years ago.

Setting valve timing isn't rocket science. Step 1 is to turn the crank until the timing mark on the pulley is aligned with the mark on the block. If you can't find the timing marks remove the no 1 spark plug or injector. Place a straight piece of wire into the hole and slowly turn the crank until the wire is pushed right to the top. At this point there will be a slight movement of the crank either way where no movement is felt or seen on the wire. This is called top dead centre (tdc) on no. 1 cylinder. By the way, no 1 cylinder is always the cylinder nearest the radiator.
The next step is to turn the camshaft - assuming the tappet cover has already been removed - and to watch for the point at which the no 1 cylinder's valves "rock", that is, the exhaust valve closes just before the intake valve opens. Watch the tappets, they will alternate as you move the camshaft, which by the way is not easy to do since you have to overcome the compression of the valve springs.
Once you have no1 tdc set and no1 valve set rocking, attach the timing chain and replace the spark plug / injector.
If your tractor has a petrol (gasoline) engine, remove the distributor cap. See that the distributor rotor is pointing to the no 1 spark plug wire position on the cap. Turn the engine anticlockwise just a mite off tdc, and see if the point gap is just breaking.
If all these timing issues are sorted, the engine should kick over without any hassles.
Have fun, mechanics are a gas.

you mean the rinse cycle is not starting or the water alone is flowing for rinse cycle?

There are a lot of issues with this error. Some people are finding that the ecm (main computer) needs to be replaced from corrosion. Others are finding that the ECM can be flashed to another year to fix it. Some are finding corrosion on the connectios. There is a lot of info about it on this page: http://www.sebringclub.net/board/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=11337

Hi there:DTC P0741 - Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Excessive Slip, Transaxle Chuggle, Slip/Surge (Inspect and/or Replace Various Internal Transaxle Components


There is some service info, that may very well be your problem. here is the info...


Subject: Incorrect Transmission Shifts, Poor Engine Performance, Harsh 1-2 Upshifts, Slips 1ST and Reverse, Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Stuck Off/On, DTCs P0730, P0756, P0757, P0741, P0742 (Clean Transaxle Valve Body and Case Oil Passages of Debris)


Models: 2001-2005 GM Passenger Cars with 4T65-E Automatic Transmission
2001-2005 Buick Rendezvous
2005 Buick Terraza
2001-2004 Chevrolet Venture
2005 Chevrolet Uplander
2001-2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette
2001-2005 Pontiac Aztek, Montana
2005 Saturn Relay
with 4T65-E Transmission (RPOs M15, MN3, MN7, M76)


Some owners may comment on any one or more of the following conditions:

* The SES lamp is illuminated.
* The transmission slips.
* The transmission does not shift correctly, is very difficult to get the vehicle to start moving or the engine lacks the power to move the vehicle.
* Poor engine performance.


Cause
The most likely cause of the various conditions may be chips or debris:
* All years--Pressure Reg. Valve (Bore 1) or Torque Signal Valve (Bore 4) stuck.
* On 2001-2002 vehicles, a plugged orifice on the case side of the spacer plate.
* On 2003-2005 vehicles, restricted movement of the 2-3 shift valves in the valve body.
* On 2003-2005 vehicles, restricted movement of the 3-4 shift valves in the valve body.


Technician Diagnosis and Correction
* The technician's road test reveals the vehicle launches in third or fourth gear (high RPM with slow vehicle acceleration).

* On 2001-2002 vehicles, a DTC P0756 or P0757 may be stored.
* On 2003-2005 vehicles, a DTC P0730, P0741, P0748 or P0757 may be stored.
* Refer to the appropriate Service Information (SI) for additional Diagnostic Assistance.
* With a Tech 2 connected to the vehicle, road test the vehicle and perform the following steps:
If the above symptoms are present proceed with the following steps.
With the valve body removed and on a workbench, carefully push the valve against spring pressure to check if the valve will snap back to the original position. Or for the valves seated in home position, use a small flat-bladed screwdriver and carefully pry the valve off its seat, quickly remove the screwdriver allowing the valve to return to its seat. If the valve does not snap back unencumbered, then the valve will need to be removed from the valve body.
Once the valve is removed, inspect for any scratching or scoring.
If any scratching or scoring is found, then the fingernail test will need to be performed.


Important: It has been found that in most cases that the scratches are not severe enough to catch your fingernail.
Using your fingernail, move over any scratches to see if your nail will catch on the scratch or score.
* If your nail catches in the scratches, the valve will need to be replaced.
* If your nail does not catch in the scratches, continue with the next step.


Important: Clean the valve body with the machined side down so debris may escape.
Clean the valve and bore using brake cleaner.
Blow off with shop air.
To verify free movement of the valve, dip the valve into clean ATF and install the valve back into the appropriate bore. The valve should move freely. If the valve moves freely, in most cases the valve body will function properly when reinstalled.
Reassemble and retest .





(1)Bore 1, Pressure Regulator (Reverse Boost Valve inside bushing)(2)Bore 2, 1-2 Shift Valve, Solenoid "A"(4)Bore 4, Torque Signal Valve, Pressure Control Solenoid(5)Bore 5, Pressure Relief Valve(6)Bore 6, PWM and TCC Control Valve(7)Bore 7, TCC Regulator Apply Valve(11) Bore 11, 3-4 Shift Valve, 4-3 Manual Down Shift Valve(12) Bore 12, 2-3 Shift Valve, 3-2 Manual Down Shift Valve(14) Bore 14, Secondary 1-2 Accumulator Valve(15) Bore 15, 2-3 Accumulator Valve, 3-4 Accumulator Valve(16) Bore 16, Solenoid "B"


Hope this helps.

The code is for a problem with the intake valve timing on bank two.
Your Nissan is probably new enough to have variable valve timing.
The computer controls valve timing by using a control valve in the heads.
This component would need to be tested.

Check 15A fuses, #58 and #59,
- second possibility is stuck relay, check, swap place with same color relay [E32]
- ctrl solenoid valve resistance 1 and 2: about 7ohms at 20?°C (68?°F)

P0011 (Bank 1); P0021 (Bank 2)
- Intake valve timing control performance, There is a gap between angle of target and
phase-control angle degree.
Causes:
- Harness or connectors (Intake valve timing control solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.)
- Intake valve timing control solenoid valve
- Crankshaft position sensor (POS)
- Camshaft position sensor (PHASE)
- Accumulation of debris to the signal pick-up portion of the camshaft

I'd add one possibility to the list: worn mech VTC parts if over 150k... possible if history contains lubrication problems. (Mech repair will be costly; i'd try locking the system in place.)
All electronics checkups start from voltage checks, at batt, at ECU. Then clean connectors, next test individual sensor inputs: see link p.14 below. Dig more/all info via 'Favorite Links', see link page below - top left corner:

Water Inlet Valve

Your icemaker's water inlet valve could be filled with ice. If it is, simply thaw the its water tube with a hair dryer to remove the blockage. Be careful to not melt any plastic parts with the blow dryer.

An icemaker's water inlet valve has a filtering screen to block minerals and other debris from entering into your ice cubes. It is possible that the water inlet valve's screen is blocked, and not allowing any water through to make ice. Clean out any built up debris you find. You should be able to pop the screen out of place with a screwdriver and then put it back in place with the screwdriver again once it is cleaned.

Alternatively, the water inlet valve itself may have become defective. You will have to test it. If the test proves the valve is defective, replace it.

if you need more info post it and I'll see if I can locate more

please take a moment to rate my response

Fyi. All new washing maching already tested on their functionality and features but not test run with water intake and drain function. I would like to share My experience last time with this model. The water outlet valve will release by motor when you set to drain mode.it suppose manage to retract back by spring when drain process finish or afte small you change to wash mode.
Take a look on the spring movement.normally it not properly hold valve switch hence the retracted spring not block the valve to stop water drain. Just rectify the alignment of the valve swich which directly connected to the retractable spring.

3 stage? It sounds like the first stage has a leaking valve, possibly second stage also - this would explain both the high temperature in stage 1 and the poor pressure from the final stage. Take a look at page 6 of the following link. This is the typical intake and outlet valve diagram for each stage. Valves #2 are intake valves, and valves #6 and 7 are discharge valves. They all perform like check valves, each valve allowing air flow in only one direction. It sounds like your valves are leaking between 1st and 2nd stages. Possibly debris in the valves, or valves damaged. Try taking air intake filter off and check for damage to air filter and debris at intake. Also try removing valve plates and check for debris/damaged valves on first and second stages.

http://www.irservicenet.com/filestorage/SCD-749_.pdf

Hi and welcome to Fixya. It sounds like you have debris in the water valve inlet screens. Possibly inside the water valve itself. Here is a procedure you can do to try and reverse flow / clean the water valve.

Get a 3 gallon bucket...Turn off both wall connected hoses.

Remove ONE hose from the wall shut off valve and place it in the 3 gallon bucket.

Turn on the hose that is still connected to the wall shut off valve.

Select WARM on the temp selector.

Let the water back flow until the bucket is about 1/3 full. While the water is flowing use the handle of a screwdriver the GENTLY tap in the hose connection at the washer water valve several times to free or loosen debris.

Reverse the hose positions on the wall shut off valve and repeat above until the bucket is 2/3 rds full.

Then turn off the water at the wall and disconnect the hoses from the water valve ONE at a time. One the hose is removed take out (remove) the metal inlet screen from the water valve. You have to use a blade or a scribe on the very outside of the screen to remove it. Take the screen to a sink and using a slow flow of water clean the screen with your fingers / fingernails until you can see through it when you hold it up to a light. Once clean press the screen back into the water valve and then repeat the remove and clean procedure for the other screen.

Reconnect all hoses

Turn on the water and test for leaks.

Check water flow during the fill. You see a remarkable difference.

If there is no change then there is still debris in the diaphram of the water valve. Most often you can not open the water valve and it must be replaced.

Thanks for using Fixya! Kelly