My air conditioning unit does not cool off the house. I hear and see it running, the fan comes on, the thermostat says it's cooling and is set at 70 degrees but temps inside the house get to almost 90 during the summer days. At night it seems to cool the house off somewhat but not any lower than about 75 degrees. The furnace has been checked and all parts of the cooling unit cleaned according to manufacturer instructions. What else could it be?
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the blower unit or air handler is actually blowing air through the ductwork.
Here are the details of what to check in what order if your air condtioner or heat pump doesn't start at all when you set the room thermostat to call for cooling:
Check the Room Thermostat Temperature Setting: Set the thermostat to at least 5 degrees below room temperature. Our elderly mom has no patience with switches and controls. She regularly calls her air conditioning service company with a service request, sometimes late at night, because she has simply failed to set the temperature on the thermostat lower than the room temperature. Don't drive your A/C like our mother.
Check that the Room Thermostat is set to "Cool"not "Off" or "Heat". If the thermostat is not set to "cool" it is simply turning off your A/C. If the thermostat display is blank then it's not receiving power (for modern digital thermostats). Check that electrical power is on at the air handler and to the the low-voltage transformer that supplies power to the thermostat.
If the thermostat has power, check that when you set the thermostat temperature down at least 5 degrees below room temperature the thermostat calls for cooling. If it doesn't then check for broken or shorted thermostat wires anywhere between the wall thermostat and the control board at the air handler.
You can easily eliminate possible thermostat problems as a cause of failure of the air conditioner to start by simply eliminating the thermostat from the picture: disconnect the thermostat wires at the blower unit's control board and instead connect the two thermostat terminals directly together with a jumper wire. If the system starts then the problem is in the thermostat itself or in its wiring.
If the thermostat is working but the compressor condenser unit won't start, you could skip ahead
to COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER DIAGNOSTICSbut I wish you'd double check the remaining steps in this article first because there are some sneaky snafus listed below that might still be the problem.
Check that electricity is on for the equipment. Check all of the electrical switches and controls that can turn electrical power off at the indoor air handler or at the outdoor compressor/condenser unit. There are more of these switches than you might guess. Here's a list of what to check:
Electrical power switches and service switches outside by the compressor, inside at the air handler, and fuses or circuit breakers in the electrical panel. Don't forget to check that the access covers to the equipment are properly closed and latched. Otherwise a BLOWER DOOR SAFETY SWITCH could be keeping the equipment from running.
There are several other safety switches and controls, both manual and automatic that can leave an air conditioner or heat pump turned "off" such as a blower compartment door interlock safety switch, an electric motor overload or overheat switches, and a condensate tray spillage detector switch.
Check the electrical supply voltage. Even if electricity is on, if the supply voltage has fallen too far below the operating voltage range of your air conditioner it's likely that the system will not operate, particlarly, you may note that the compressor motor won't start.
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Whole-house fans help cool your home by pulling cool air through the house and exhausting warm air through the attic.
Set your thermostat as high as comfortably possible in the summer. The smaller the difference between the indoor and outdoor temperatures, the lower your overall cooling bill will be.
Avoid setting your thermostat at a colder setting than normal when you turn on your air conditioner. It will not cool your home any faster and could result in excessive cooling and, therefore, unnecessary expense.
Consider using an interior fan in conjunction with your window air conditioner to spread the cooled air more effectively through your home without greatly increasing your power use.
Avoid placing lamps or TV sets near your air-conditioning thermostat. The thermostat senses heat from these appliances, which can cause the air conditioner to run longer than necessary.
Plant trees or shrubs to shade air conditioning units but not to block the airflow. Place your room air conditioner on the north side of the house. A unit operating in the shade uses as much as 10% less electricity than the same one operating in the sun.
the dual run capacitor is bad located in main panel of unit size of small red bull can it will be swelled up on top indicating it bad get on at electric motor or electric supply house most ac stores wont sell it has a rating like 35/5 370
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Check the Following Is your filter clean? Look and the evaporator in the inside unit. Is it frosted up? Do you have condensation water in the pan? Go to the outside unit and feel the air coming out of the fan. Is it warm? Now feel the 2 copper pipes coming out of the unit. Is the small one warm or hot? Is the larger one cool ? Is there moisture on it? Air conditioner runs but doesn't cool at all If the airflow is good and the air coming out is not cold, your home air conditioning problem may be a temporary problem - your coils may have frozen. Turn the unit off for an hour to let them thaw, then try again. If cold air is now present, freezing coils were the problem; if the problem recurs soon after turning on, you may need to replace the coils. Again, call a pro. If you have ceiling vents in upstairs rooms and the air flowing from them is consistently warm, you probably have leaky or poorly insulated ductwork in your attic. See my Attic ceiling insulation page for more information on insulating ductwork that runs through attics. Another likely home air conditioning problem if you have good airflow but no cooling is that thebreaker to the outside unit is shut off, which, depending on the installation, can either cause the air conditioning system to not run at all, or to appear to be running but not provide any cooling. If you can hear the compressor fan running outside, the breaker is on, but if the outside unit is silent the outside breaker may be off. If switching it on does not solve the problem, look for the high pressure cut outon the condenser and try resetting that. Check this Link for Detailed RepairClick here
Hope you got an Idea...Thanks for Contacting FixYa...
www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/.../118816.pdf - United States Above is your service and repair manual, with this you will be able to troubleshoot and repair your Aircon. I suspect, your thermostat may have a faulty sensor? factoidz.com/troubleshooting-your-air-conditioning-thermostat/ http://www.inspectapedia.com/heat/Thermostats.htm
This only could 1--2 things, a bad circuit board fan relay or bad thermostat. To check for bad thermostat, take off the front cover to reveal the 4-wire terminial and jump the red-wire (power)-cool,(yellow -y or blue)--- green--fan white-(heat)..........red to yellow-or y=cool. Thank-you-very-much!
Check for a frozen cooling coil. Turn the fan to the on position at the thermostat and the cooling to off. Your cooling coil may be iced over. Allow it to run in the fan only mode until the coil has had a chance to defrost. At the outside unit you may see the large line is frosted. This is the visual indication for a frozen coil. When you return the A/C to cooling use it with the fan on while in the cooling mode.