Question about GE PDS20MBS Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Heater around freezer opening on a PDS20S GE

The metal surface around the freezer opening seems quite warm and there is no control in the refrigerator to turn the heater off. How do I disable the this heat?

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woodchuck789
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SOURCE: Area around freezer opening on a PDS20S GE

This is uaually caused by the condenser fan next to the compressor not running. Remove the cardboard backing to see it, give it a spin if it's not running. Even if it starts running with a spin you'll need to replace it.
Or If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too. check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

Posted on Aug 30, 2009

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Model TFX30PP purchased 9-10 years ago. The refrigerator & freezer are not cold enough. There was frost built up in the back of the freezer. We defrosted it. Plugged it back in - fridge read in the...


What you have is either a bad heater or heater bi-metal thermostat most likely. I say that since the ice box is working correctly until that frost builds up. Have you checked them. Your heater should test good for continuity(not open or bad) but the bi-metal is a different story. It is open at 50 degrees f and it only closes or carrys voltage when it is sitting in a freezer at 25f. What it does is allow power to the heater when the timer or automatic control calls for defrost. The defrost cycle is around 20 to 40 minutes and power is constantly being sent to that heater the whole time. When it gets warm enough for frost to melt 50F then that bi-metal opens up and kills the power to that heater. If that heater was to stay on it would not be purty. For the rest of the defrost cycle the coils simply rest and drip.

Jun 09, 2010 | Refrigerators

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it;s probably not going through the defrost cycle or its getting stuck in defrost .. on the back of frig the is a metal cover plate . in side you will find the main board . replace it . it runs the compressor and defrost and controls tempt . this is a very common problem . the new boards are better . and they cost a litle more . mm hope this helped / feed back pls .

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Freezer is warm at top and cold on the bottom.


Sounds as tho your evap fan is not running. Open door to freezer and should hear a fan running smoothly. If not most of the time the problems is with the main control board on back of refrigerator.

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1 Answer

Area around freezer opening on a PDS20S GE


This is uaually caused by the condenser fan next to the compressor not running. Remove the cardboard backing to see it, give it a spin if it's not running. Even if it starts running with a spin you'll need to replace it.
Or If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too. check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

Aug 30, 2009 | GE PDS20MBS Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

42'' monogram getting very hot between doors and in unit above


This is typical for frost-free refridgerators/freezers. In order to keep ice from buiding up on the interior walls of the freezer section, the manufacturer installs electric defrosting elements and extra "warming" elements in the outer edges of the cabinet, normally around the door openings to help mitigate any frost/ice build up and surface condensation that typically occurs on the exterior surfaces as the doors are opened and closed frequently.

These edge warmers stay very warm to keep ice and condensation from accumulating and will become VERY very warm (hot) when the fridge/freezer is in the once a day defrost cycle.

Unless you have an energy saver switch (GE trademark) inside the fridge section, which you can turn off, there is no way to disable these added elements. If you find that you're getting ice building up in the freezer, you'll need to turn off the energy saver switch to resolve that issue.

Energy Saver switch "ON" means these elements are off, while having the ES switch "OFF" means those heaters are running all the time and costing you more in energy consumption

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Problem fixed by replacing the main control board (part# WR49X10152).

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1 Answer

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The freezer on top unit was keeping everything up top nice and cold, but the customer began to notice things in the fresh food section getting a little to warm. When the temperature selectors were adjusted to a colder setting, it seemed to help for a day or two, but then started getting warmer again. Sounding like a defrost problem, I paid this refrigerator a visit with hairdryer in hand, and parts in the van. Frost free refrigerators use a defrost heater to periodically assist with the melting of frost that builds up on the fins of the evaporator located in the freezer section. Frost forms each time the doors are opened to the unit, and the warmer, moist air from outside gets inside and heads toward the cold surface of the evaporator. As the frost continues to collect, the air passages in and around the evaporator start to close up and begin to prevent air circulation by the evaporator fan from the freezer to the fresh food section. As the cycle continues, the temperature in and around the evaporator will be cold, but the fresh food section will get warmer because warm air is not being exchanged with the colder air from above. The defrost sections of most units will consist of the same components. Namely, the heater itself, the bi-metal terminator, and the timer or defrost control. Each one of these components need to work properly for the defrost cycle to properly keep the unit frost free. On this unit, the timer could be advanced to begin a defrost cycle, but there was no current flow to the heater. After checking all connections and doing a quick resistance check of the circuit, I determined the bi-metal terminator had failed open. These bi-metal devices are used to prevent an overheating situation in the freezer section should the heater remain on to long. Once the trip temperature is reached, the bi-metal will open up a set of electrical contacts thus opening the circuit. Then when the unit cools back down to it's reset temperature, the contacts will again close, closing the circuit for the next defrost cycle. Because this bi-metal didn't reset, the circuit remained open and no defrosting took place. After using my trusty hairdryer and warm water squirt bottle to defrost the evaporator, I wired a new defrost terminator in line with the heater. With all the frost removed, the cold air started circulating again, and now everything within the fresh food section stays properly chilled.

Have a manual and can help you. Visit my site and enter your model number and part number in search feature. Click link below

http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

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J

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