I have a black German made Blanco sink with a black strainer. Almond plumbers putty was used and it looked terrible. Is there a product that you recommend for this problem? I really think black plumbers putty is what I need. Thank you so much. Laura Allen Smith 3100 Halls Hill Rd Crestwod KY 40014 [email protected]

Did you put the rubber gasket and cardboard sleeve on the bottom of the sink(next to the nut and did you use plumbers putty on the top part of the sink under the top section of the basket. Hint if you put some soap on the gasket under the sink between it and the nut it will be easier to tighten also you must secure the top part of the basket as you turn the nut if not the plumbers putty will not seal. If you do not have the strainer basket holding tool wrench you can substitute with a pare of needle nose pliers. Large channel locks or pliers can work to turn the large nut on bottom. If you can recruit a helper to hold the top part of the strainer basket with the needle nose pliers it make the job of tightening the large nut easier. When a large amount of the plumbers putty has squeezed out and the strainer is flush with the sink you should have a tight seal.

Yes The Blanko is installed with silicon not plumber putty. This is common with the newer sink strainers


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Hello.
You shouldn't need a special strainer.
Where the strainer meets the sink surface, ( the lip of the strainer ), should have plumber's putty.
Take a chunk of plumbers putty and roll it out like a snake and then stick it under the lip of the srainer all the way around. Set the strainer in the hole and then on the bottom side add the rubber seal, then the cardboard, or metal glide ring and then the nut.
As you tighten the nut it will squeeze out the excess putty and allow you to remove it.
1. Sometimes people try to use the rubber seal on the top side of the sink, but it goes on under the sink.
2. The cardboard/metal glide ring prevents the nut from tearing up the rubber seal so you can really tighten it.

I hope this helps you!
Thanks, Donnie

Hello, W/D here.

To install your strainer, you'll need some plumber's putty. The old one is removed by loosening the large ring on the underside and the strainer pulls out from the sink side. Once you are down to just the hole in the sink, you're ready to install the new strainer.
Get a portion of the plumber's putty in your hand about the size of a golf ball. divide it into two portions. Take one part, and roll it in between your hands, palms together and vertical, making a rope.
Take your rope, and place it around the sink hole. If you need more putty, roll the other portion in a similar fashion, and continue around the hole. You may need to overlap the rope putty where it's thin and at the ends to make sure that you get a good seal when you apply pressure the the basket. Place the strainer basket in the hole and press it down lightly, just enough to hold it in place. From under the sink, place the gaskets on the threads, followed by yjr large ring nut that will hold it all in place. Usually, there are two gaskets, a paper type, and a plastic type. Put the paper one on first, followed by the plastic, then the nut. Screw the nut down, applying some pressure to the strainer and plumber's putty. Adjust the strainer now, centering it in the depression in the bottom of the sink. Continue tightening the ring nut, pulling the strainer down into the sink, and squeezing the plumber's putty out, making a seal. Get it pretty snug, and wait a minute. The putty will continue to settle in the seal, and you will be able to tighten it some more after it does. Do this several times, and you'll end up with a good seal that will last. Take a regular screwdriver, and trace it around the strainer on the sink side to release the excess putty. You can ball it up, and press it back into the tub of putty, ready for the next time.

Best regards, --W/D--

Hi,
No I use a small bead of clear silicone... if any squeezes out just let it bead and set up ...after it dries just trim it off with a sharp knife...

works great!!! and looks even better ...

heatman101

Usually the gasket is not foam but black rubber. There may have been a piece of foam as packing to protect the stainless. You would apply the plumber's putty directly to the sink. Insert the strainer directly into the putty, compressing the putty. Under the sink, remove the excess putty that extruded through the opening. Apply the rubber gasket to the bottom of the sink, and then the nut (sometimes a "cup" and then the nut) .When the nut is tight, remove excess putty inside the sink. LEAKPROOF!

ALL BASKET STRAINERS ARE PRETTY MUCH THE SAME. PLUMBERS PUTTY WORKS FINE. I BELIEVE ITS THE ORDER OF INSTALL THAT IS CAUSING THE LEAKS. STRAINER AND RUBBER GASKET GOES IN FROM THE TOP. IF NO RUBBER GASKET IS PROVIDED, THEN PLUMBERS PUTTY WILL SUFFICE. UNDERNEATH, ANOTHER RUBBER GASKET AND/OR PAPER GASKET, THEN THREAD ON THE NUT. TIGHTEN IT SNUGLY.

clear silicone caulk

Us a clear sanitary grade silicone

The Plumbers putty will do the trick but it needs cleaning off very carefully where as the clear silicone blends

you always use plumbers putty on the strainer baskets. you can never use to much just remove the access when tightened. If you use silicone you will have leaks withen a year.