Clicking Noice after replacing shattered color wheel, ballast and lamp...
My color wheel shattered, I replace the color wheel, the lamp and the ballast, and there is still a clicking noise on the right hand side of the TV when looking at the back. I purchased another TV, but I'm determined to try to fix my HLR5067 WX DLP TV. I've seen some references to the DMD board, but also to the secondary fan. The smaller fan turns on and green light appear from the left side, but the secondary fan near the Color Wheel doesn't spin. Any suggestion, I HATE losing and need to get this fixed for my own sanity at this point.
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Average life on a OEM lamp unit is 2,000 hours which usually works out
to 2 years (unless you use it a awful lot of hours).Bad color wheels in
these sets usually exhibit a high pitched sound or fan like noise--even
heard a few that sound like a garbage disposal.The wheel faces the lamp
so if you can remove the lamp and look at it to see if shattered or
missing pieces.Someone posted instructions for the replacement
online--let me know as it is on my bookmark list now.Only way to know
(other than taking lamp out and finding it shattered inside) is to
replace it.May be the lamp again, maybe the Ballast that drives it etc,
kind of like starter on car turns but car will not start.Try to look at
turn on to see if lamp even fires for a moment--then inspect color wheel
etc. If you want the URL for the installation of the wheel let me
I would say the next thing to replace would be the ballast for the lamp and if that does not work the power supply board may have failed. When I replace the power supply, I also replace the ballast at the same time.
Replace the color wheel again, its gone bad again. the clicking is the ballast trying to fire the lamp. The Ballast will not fire the lamp until the color wheel has reported it has reached an RPM of around 9000rpm. This is a normal sound. Most of the time the color wheel will make a loud whining sound when bearings go bad, sounds like a Airplane using reverse thrusters when landing and a even louder sound when it shatters in the housing. Also the reason it may of gone bad so soon is because they make to versions of this color wheel, Bearing type and the Air type. I don't know who installed your color wheel, but it should of came with a small tag or paper of some sort with numbers on it. Most people throw this away when it is very important to let the unit know which type of wheel is being installed to set the parameters for either type of wheel. Most people who install colors wheels themselves to save money do not know this, and the only way to install the new settings is thru the Factory Service Mode. There are also color parameters to input for the type of wheel being used.
This is your basic Color wheel 101..
Hope I gave you some insite of what may of caused your problem...Please leave comment if more info is needed..Lavell
Or email me: Delhielectronics@live.com
This set uses a color wheel, part number is:
BP96-00674AYou can remove the lamp and look where it faces--it is a round plastic wheel with segments that are different colors---if you remove the lamp and look in the direction it faces(you may need a small mirror to look) if it is shattered or missing segments of the round wheel---it is your problem.
If it is shattered or damaged you are lucky--Samsung sells this part separate---it is located in the optical light engine--you can find instructions for replacing it on the internet--if you decide to do this let me know--I know a few tricks to a good replacement of this kind of part. From Samsung it is about 125 dollar part---You can search on Ebay with your model number(or the part number) and find it for much less---search the part number I gave you there and you will find it. This wheel turns at 14,000 rpm and they eventually lock up and or shatter. The set will detect no motion or improper motion of the wheel and may shut the set off.
I do this here for free, so if this helps you give me a vote here---IF you have any questions or need more help--contact me here.
The color wheel will normally spin-up even for a brief moment when the set is powered up. I have not seen a color wheel go out with a lamp. I have seen a ballast go bad with a lamp. I would replace the ballast first. You did not state wheather the color wheel was noisy or not. On the Samsung DLP, the color wheel is normally very noisy before it is gone. I hope this will help you.
Sounds like you've already gotten into the repairs. The three major things that fail on DLP are the bulb, the ballast and the color wheel. If your bulb is new and you aren't getting anywhere, replace the ballast, if that is still a no go, then move on to the color wheel. If replacing those three doesn't fix the problem, you will have to whip out the multimeter and start looking for problems on the PSB. You can get a ballast on ebay for about $100. Start there. The color wheel should be very freely moving. If something is grinding and hindering the movement at all, you need to replace it. That grinding may not seem like much but it is likely enough to keep the wheel from spinning at proper speeds. The sensor then kicks in and tells the brain that there is a problem and the brain keeps the ballast from firing the lamp.
This could be lamp or ballast. First I would check the lamp. It could be bad (causing the clicking) or it may just need to be reseated with the ballast. If the lamp is not bad make sure it is connected to the ballast and pushed all the way in. If you still hear the clicking (the clicking may be the ballast trying to light the lamp. when turning on your tv, look to see if the ballast is flickering causing the clicking) and your lamp is good and seated correctly, then you ballast is going bad and it needs to be replaced. Last but not least. If that is not the problem then the clicking is a broken color wheel. A broken color wheel will sound like a clicking or a high squeal when going bad.