Whirlpool 2 door Freezer ice maker 510 litre not working properly
My ice maker in the freezer door was not working, I have fixed it to some degree, where it will make 1 batch of ice but when the gear wheel with the contact switchs rotates it puts the water in for another batch but the fingers will not rotate again to push the 2nd batch of ice out. I have tried positioning the driven gear in different locations but it will only work in one location, but only 1 batch produced. The fingers after the second rotation are sticking in the air at about 2 o'clock facing forward but when I started them they were about 3 o'clock, not sure why it does not quite make a full revolution.
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Replace the ice maker electronic module in the ice maker head. The gear is stripped. This module controls the enitre process in making ice. Can be easily changed in about 5 minutes. If we can help further....
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The ice maker fan is located in the freezer and is part of the Grille Assembly ( LG part Name) Which is the removable back panel in the freezer. If you have an error code on the display such as ER/IF the fan is not rotating due to failure or ice accumulation in the fan blade. If you have no error code and the ice maker is not producing ice 2 things to check are...1. On the bottom of the ice maker there is a Test Button. Press and hold the button and the ice maker should rotate, Dump ice cubes and refill with water. If the ice maker does not cycle replace the ice maker. 2. Check freezer temperature. Freezer Temperature must be below 15 degrees to make ice. Ideally freezer temp should be 0 Degrees. If you have warm temps in the freezer there may be a sealed system issue preventing proper cooling.
Ice or frost in the freezer can be caused by one of Three issues:
• An improperly closed door.
• Improper ventilation of the freezer.
• The Ice Maker Flap. 1. Door Not Closed Properly
• Make sure that the freezer door closes completely.
• Make sure that the door gaskets are attached properly to the door and that they are clean. Also, make sure they are sealing properly and are not torn or split.
Take a dollar bill and close it in the door. If you can pull the dollar out with no resistance, the seals should be replaced.
• Make sure there are no packages resting against the rear wall of the freezer.
2. Improper Ventilation
• Make sure there are no packages resting against the rear wall of the freezer.
• Space your food out as much as possible to improve ventilation.
• Make sure that the air vent in the freezer is not blocked. Refrigerator Compartment
If your refrigerator is freezing food, the temperature is set too low. Raise the temperature a few degrees to fix the problem.
If your refrigerator temperature is too high, condensation may build up and freeze on the bottom of the refrigerator. Lower the temperature a few degrees to fix the problem.
Okay, here's a bunch of info in the order I would troubleshoot since the one year warranty expired.
1) The water filter might be clogged. Try just removing it to see if it makes ice. If it does change the water filter.
2) The water inlet valve might (still) be defective. The water inlet valve is an electro-mechanical valve. The coil can show good for continuity and still not let the water thru although you didn't say if it worked when he left. if recently replaced it should be under his warranty.
3) The water pressure in the house might be too low. The water inlet valve which supplies water to the ice maker is designed to work with a minimum of 20 psi of water pressure.
4) The door switch might be defective. When the freezer door is opened the freezer door switch does two things, it turns on the light in the freezer and turns off the ice maker and dispenser. If the door switch fails the dispenser will not turn on. The switch can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter. If it doesn't have continuity it should be replaced.
5) It could be that the ice maker assembly itself is defective. The freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees for the ice maker to cycle properly. There are several components in the control module of the ice maker that can fail and most are not sold separately. Also, ice makers have a relatively short lifespan and so it might not be worth fixing. If other, simpler parts like the water inlet valve or shut off arm have been ruled out, and the only thing left is the ice maker itself, replace it as a unit. Not as expensive as you may think...Under $100
6) The icemaker module at the front might also be defective. The module has a motor that cycles the ice ejector arms around to push the ice cubes out when the ice maker thermostat closes. It also has contacts in it for the mold heater and water inlet valve. The motor or contacts of the module can fail. Usually there are test points in the module that a service person can use to determine if there is a problem with it or one of the related ice maker components.
7) The icemaker mold thermostat might be defective. Inside the control module of the ice maker is a thermostat which monitors the temperature of the ice mold (ice tray). Once the mold reaches the proper temperature the ice maker starts a harvest cycle by ejecting the ice cubes and refilling with water. If the mold thermostat is defective the ice maker doesn't advance. The thermostat can be checked for continuity. Replace it as needed.The freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees for optimum performance.
There could be a couple dif problems. If the temp in the freezer is not below 6 degrees the thermistat in the ice maker will not call for water. The selinoid in the water inlet valve for the freezer may be bad. The ice maker itself may be bad.
To test the inlet valve switch the hoses and see if it calls for water when you call for water in the door. To do this you will need a 1/4 inch nut driver. Remove the panel in the back of the fridge on the outside. Push the connector inwards and pull the hose out. Most inlet valves you can do this with. Switch the hoses and push the water through the door button . If you cant do this you have 2 choices. Either call a technician to test the inlet valve or take a gamble and replace and hope this works.
If the inlet valve is good and the freezer temp is below 6 degrees replace the ice maker.
More than likely you've got an iced up evaporater. If you look in the lower section of the freezer on the back wall, is the wall frosty or icy looking? The only way to defrost this is by taking the back wall out of the freezer and using a hair dryer on it (being careful not to melt the plastic liner) or to just empty the whole thing and let it sit with the doors open for a few days. Be prepared for water to leak out from under it however as the ice melts and overflows the drain tray in the bottom of the fridge.
this will help you to fix ice maker http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/Fixing_an_Ice_Maker-Refrigerator-F2155.html
see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check.
Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit
like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice
maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the
down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small
red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper
position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8
degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker
may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat,
repair/replace as necessary