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Re: stainless steel drum loose
A loose inner drum usually indicates a failed rear tub bearing. The only solution is to replace the rear half of the tub. (which contains the bearing).... You can check if the pulley nut has come loose by removing the rear panel. There is a large nut that retains the belt pulley to the shaft of the basket.
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2 possible problems. On the outside of the tub front and on the top back are cement counter weights that are bolted to the tub. If they are coming loose, they would cause the tub to go off balance and wobble. If just the stainless inner tub is the one that wobbles, that suggests a bad rear drum bearing. The counter weight problem easy to fix once you get the top and back off and just need re-tightened. The back drum bearing is something even trained techs want to avoid. It requires removing the complete tub/drum assembly from the washer----then splitting the outer tub in half to replace the inner drum and bearing assembly. Cost for parts will be excessive and not worth the repair.
Call Kia with your VIN to make sure yours wasn't affected by the recall. You may be able to have that rear bearing replaced for free at Kia.
HUBCAP & OUTER BEARING REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE: 1. Remove the two (2) cross-tip locating screws on the brake drum.
2. Remove the brake drum.
3. Remove cotter pin and cover set.
4. Remove nut, claw washer, outer bearing and hub assembly.
5. Inspect inner bearing area in both hubs for any sign of moisture, corrosion, grease discoloration or contamination. If "yes" discard entire hub and replace with new assembly. If "no" proceed with outer bearing replacement below: 6. Carefully remove the outer bearing race from the hub. If the hub assembly is damaged then replace the hub assembly as a complete unit. (If inner seal is damaged while removing the outer race replace with new seal.)
7. Clean all contaminated grease from outer bearing cavity of the hub.
8. Install a new outer race into the hub using an appropriate race installation tool.
9. Apply grease MS511-33 WBG2 or equivalent to the hub assembly and the new bearing(s) especially to the shaded areas.
10. Install hub assembly, new pre-greased outer bearing and new claw washer on spindle. (Or alternatively, install entire new hub assembly, as supplied). Ensure bearings are properly seated then tighten hub/spindle nut, torque nut to 20-25 lb-ft (27-33 Nm.) Verify hub spins freely without signs of binding or excessive play.
11. Install new cover set and cotter pin; never reuse the old cotter pin.
12. Install new hub cap with Loctite # 5910(TM) or equivalent sealant to prevent moisture intrusion.
13. Install the rear brake drum using tapered locating screws.
14. Install rear wheels and torque lug nuts to proper specification. (65-79 lb-ft) (88-108 Nm, 9-11 kgm)
Open the door and loosen the self threading screws around the sides of the inner door panel. Once this has been achieved lift the inner panel up so that you can access the door handle screws. Tighten these fasteners and reassemble the door panel.
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I theory...yes it can be done. The problem lyes in 1) finding just the bearing & seal... and 2) the shaft of the inner stainless steel basket is likely going to be badly worn or "scored" as a result of the bearing failing.
I always replace the entire assembly, but if the bearing and seal where available seperately it would still require the inner basket and a complete tear-down and just as much labour ( or more likely ) it is less expensive to do the complete assembly.
I'll leave that with you, let me know if I can assist you further.
You need to remove the inner door panel to access the screws that hold the door handle in place. I had to do this about a year ago - the screws are located around the outside edge of the door. Be careful; the inner parts are plastic, so take your time. It's a fairly easy repair.
Handle needs to be replaced part# 154537303 (blk). Un plug unit, take 4 screws from behind blk control panel out. Panel will fold down, remove two torx head screws from door latch, replace with new one and put it back together and your done.
If your machine produces a lot of banging noises when in a permanent press final spin you may be experiencing a broken spider. It is a part which is not made from stainless steel metal, but attached to a stainless still drum (tub spin). So, when it is soaked in water all the time during a normal operation of a washer it creates a galvanic element between a stainless still drum and itself. This results in severe corrosion of the "spider" and then leads to it's breakage. To check if you have a broken "spider" open the door of the washer and try to kick your internal drum back and forward while rotating it slowly.If you will hear clicking noises (metal to metal) in some position of the drum it means that your spider is broken. The replacement of this spider will require complete disassemble of the drum. Most likely you will end up replacing this whole part
Drum assembly, spin basket
Part # 131618500Another way is get just a spider part, it's doable, but may be tricky. Cheers!
If it is thumping... you have a broken spider on the inner stainless steel drum. Major defect with this machine. You'll need to call to get a new washer tub assembly... comes complete with inner stainless steel drum and outer plastic drum already assembled and ready to install. Good luck.!