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Re: stainless steel drum loose
A loose inner drum usually indicates a failed rear tub bearing. The only solution is to replace the rear half of the tub. (which contains the bearing).... You can check if the pulley nut has come loose by removing the rear panel. There is a large nut that retains the belt pulley to the shaft of the basket.
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2 possible problems. On the outside of the tub front and on the top back are cement counter weights that are bolted to the tub. If they are coming loose, they would cause the tub to go off balance and wobble. If just the stainless inner tub is the one that wobbles, that suggests a bad rear drum bearing. The counter weight problem easy to fix once you get the top and back off and just need re-tightened. The back drum bearing is something even trained techs want to avoid. It requires removing the complete tub/drum assembly from the washer----then splitting the outer tub in half to replace the inner drum and bearing assembly. Cost for parts will be excessive and not worth the repair.
Welcome to FixYa.
I theory...yes it can be done. The problem lyes in 1) finding just the bearing & seal... and 2) the shaft of the inner stainless steel basket is likely going to be badly worn or "scored" as a result of the bearing failing.
I always replace the entire assembly, but if the bearing and seal where available seperately it would still require the inner basket and a complete tear-down and just as much labour ( or more likely ) it is less expensive to do the complete assembly.
I'll leave that with you, let me know if I can assist you further.
Make sure you have plenty of well-lit space to work as well as lay out the parts removed. Remove the cabinet top by removing several screws from the rear, slide it back somewhat, then lift up. Remove the back panel by removing screws along the top rear, then lift up. Pull loose the rubber boot (it's glued to the cabinet front opening as well as to the outer drum face) CAREFULLY from the front panel opening. After uncoupling the drum motor, wiring, hoses, and suspension components, lift out the entire outer drum assembly. The case splits after removing a handful of bolts from the split circumference. Remove the large drum pulley and any snap-rings holding the large shaft in place. The inner drum should pull out of the rear case, but leave the bearings and seal in the case. The inner bearing and seal are prone to failure over time. The official fix is to replace the rear case (with new seal and bearings) for some 300 to 400 dollars. We chose to replace the bearing and seal from a local bearing supply house for about $16. It's still working well after over 10 years. Assemble in reverse order. Use 3M automotive trim cement for gluing the rubber boot back to the cabinet front. Hope this helps!
Without actually being able to hear it, this is a bit difficult, but first unplug the machine and shake the tub by hand. Squeaking now = good, minor problem like a shock absorber or loose part/ unbalanced machine. No squeak now = rather bad to very bad.
Rather bad would be an object between the inner and outer tub (usually a scrapping sound) Very bad would be the shaft from the "spider" has seperated. (uncommon, but sounds likely in your case) the spider is the drive shaft and the three arms (normally fused as one solid part) which drives the inner tub. Replacement is at least a two hour job, if you've done one before, and it's still a pain to do. The first step is to remove the large nut at the center of the "hub cap" (the direct drive motor's rotor) If that does not come off, you have to use an angle grinder or something similar to grind or cut it off. The shaft would need to be replace anyway if the shaft has seperated from the spider arms. (be careful not to damage the "hub cap" (motor rotor) Then the rotor is removed, the bolts behind it removed to remove the motor's stator (all those electrical coils) unplug the plugs to the stator, and now the real fun begins. You have to remove the entire outer drum from the machine, seperate the two halves of the outer drum so you can remove the six bolts holding the spider onto the inner drum. Re-assembly is no easy job either, especially lifting the tub assembly to hook the springs back on. On a difficulty scale of 1 - 10 for this washer's repairs, this one is a 10. I would not recommend this for a do it yourselfer.
sounds like your bearings are excessively worn, open the machine door and hold the drum (stainless steel bit) try to lift this up if it moves freely without the tub moving (outer bit usually plastic or steel without holes) your bearings are gone. or the drum has broken off the wields that hold it to the shaft. its sometimes cheaper to buy a new machine than repair the bearings and if the drum is loose it will eventually break something inside.
If your machine produces a lot of banging noises when in a permanent press final spin you may be experiencing a broken spider. It is a part which is not made from stainless steel metal, but attached to a stainless still drum (tub spin). So, when it is soaked in water all the time during a normal operation of a washer it creates a galvanic element between a stainless still drum and itself. This results in severe corrosion of the "spider" and then leads to it's breakage. To check if you have a broken "spider" open the door of the washer and try to kick your internal drum back and forward while rotating it slowly.If you will hear clicking noises (metal to metal) in some position of the drum it means that your spider is broken. The replacement of this spider will require complete disassemble of the drum. Most likely you will end up replacing this whole part
Drum assembly, spin basket
Part # 131618500Another way is get just a spider part, it's doable, but may be tricky. Cheers!
If it is thumping... you have a broken spider on the inner stainless steel drum. Major defect with this machine. You'll need to call to get a new washer tub assembly... comes complete with inner stainless steel drum and outer plastic drum already assembled and ready to install. Good luck.!