Question about Volfenhag ZX-8200 Car Audio Amplifier

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Volfenhag zx-8200 best sound

How do i make my amp put out most wattage and still be countroled by the remote. i do have my subs bridged, and they are two 12 inch 1200 watt pyramids

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Some of what you say is true, but some is wrong. Sounds like you have a decent knowlege of this but a few misconceptions.
The alternator does not determain what your amplifier's wattage is, it only determains how much current the electrical system in your car will supply. Let's just assume that the wiring is proper and the connections are clean, so you will have minimum resistance from the alternator to the amp (less than .1 ohm). even with a little more resistance, it is still in series and will have very little effect on the amp unless the voltage at the amp drops below the turn on level of the amp. Most amplifiers require 12 volts. Most vehicles will supply 14.4 volts even with not so perfect connections at the battery or alternator. If the voltage at the amp is at or around 14 volts you are good to go.
If you have an amplifier that requires more current than your alternator can supply, you need an upgraded alternator. Your amplifiers ratings do not change. Of course you need to have correct wiring and good clean connections.
By bridging an amplifier, it does not take away from sound quality, don't know who ever told you that, unless you are refering to the fact that it is a mono signal. That is not degraded sound quality, just a mono signal. It does not change the s/n ratio or THD (Total Harmonic Distortion).

The real answer this person was looking for is simple.
The most power you will get from your amp will depend on the impeadance of your speakers, nothing to do with the remote. If your amp is rated at 2 ohms bridged, you can connect 2 subs that are 4 ohms each in parallel and then bridge them to the outputs. That is the most you can get and still stay within the ratings of the amp if it is rated at 2 ohms bridged. I do not know the ratings of your amp. Whatever the rating is in stereo, you can double that for bridged and be safe. Most subwoofers are 4 ohms single voice coil. some are dual voice coils and 4 ohms each voice coil, if you parallel those together it is now a 2 ohm load. It is very important to stay with in the ratings of your equipment, otherwise you can blow up your amp, short your speakers voice coils, ect.
It is important to have speakers that are rated (wattage) a little higher than your amplifiers output, that lowers the risk of blowing the speakers. If the speakers handle more than the amp outputs, they should never get blown. Sometime when you blow your speakers, it then causes the amp to get blown.
The wattage ratings of the speakers have no effect at all on the output of the amp. The ohm ratings of the speakers have everything to do with the output of the amp. The lower the impeadance (ohms) the more wattage output of the amp. This comes from the knowlege of something called "Ohm's Law" (P = E squared over R). Then you must make sure that you have the proper guage wiring for the speakers as well as for the power connections.. The only way to increase power in an amplifier is to lower the impeadance of the load (speakers). Just stay within the ratings of the equipment or you will be visiting somebody like me and paying me to fix your equipment.
And by the way, the magnet is not there to be used as a heat sink, it does not dissipate any heat, it is a magnet, it has an magnetic field, the voice coil is not sinked to the magnet. If it was, it could not move the cone in and out. The signal that goes into the voice coil creates a magnetic field in the voice coil which in turn works with or against the magnet, causing the cone to go in or out. The voice coil is connected to the cone, not the magnet. The actual sound is created from the cone moving in and out creating a change in air pressure which our ears hear as sound.
The super cap people use is for keeping the voltage level up. With a very current hungry system, the voltage from the alternator can sometimes be brought down by a big bass hit. The regulator in the alternator can not always maintain the proper voltage when the current exceeds it's limit. That causes the voltage to drop to adjust to the current draw (more Ohm's Law). The capacitor works kinda like a battery in this case, the capacitor stays charged up since it is on the main power line and when the amp draws heavy amounts of current it drains the capacitor first, before it drops the system voltage. Then the capacitor charges back up again rather quickly and waits until it is needed again.

Posted on Jun 16, 2008

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Your amps wattage is determined first by alternator voltage, amperage, Then all, and I do mean all, the wiring from there to the battery, battery terminal condition, amp connection, wire size, power and ground and the resistance of every connection.

Next comes the amp itself, Is the RMS rating honest ?
Their is no FTC law or standard governing car audio specs.or for that matter, even home theater except for the two front channels, but I digress.

The amp itself comes in a few flavors A, B, AB, D and those are just the basics. except for D most are only 50% efficient.
Why do you suppose they make such good heaters ? ( wasted power)
You also have regulated, non-regulated, low voltage only regulated etc. etc.....

Than their is bridging, It's a generic term for using both voltage rails in the amp to accomplish more power at the cost of sound quality. There ain't no free lunch.

Speaker size or rating has absolutely no bearing on wattage,
The only parameters here are impedance and efficiency (larger is usually a little more efficient and go's lower in frequency). And power handling (voice coil and Magnet assembly (heatsink)
So your options are, custom wound alternator, big wires.a capacitor, only helps for transients (a very short durations of sound) Extra batteries will only give you longer play time before you have to start the car,

It's important to have a properly constructed and internally braced box, 3/4 MDF minimum, well sealed.
In order of SPL, declining power handling and increase in size they are, sealed, ported, and bandpass.
Oh. Did I mention money?
What does a remote have to do with SPL ? Beats Me.
Class dismissed, Sumthin

Posted on Jun 11, 2008


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Amplifier Class AB
Number of Channels 2
RMS Power (4 ohms) 120 watts x 2 channels
RMS Power (2 ohms) 200 watts x 2 channels
RMS Power (1 ohm) Not Stable
Bridged RMS Power 400 watts x 1 channel
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Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4 ohms
THD at Rated RMS Power 0.1%
Speaker Level Inputs No
Preamp Outputs 1 pair
Built-in Crossover High-pass (HP), Low-pass (LP), Full (AP)
High-Pass Crossover Frequency 40 - 250 Hz
Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 40 - 250 Hz
Subsonic Filter N/A
Signal-to-Noise Ratio N/A
Channel Separation N/A
Bass Boost 0 - 18 dB
Bass/Gain Remote Yes
Fan Cooled Yes
Fuse Rating 20A x 2

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