Hi, iWe purchased the refrigerator on 2007, it is only 3 years old. Last year we replaced the motor because it was not working, this year, it broke again. We had the technician came over to-day, he told us we have to replace the valve too. It cost us $80.00 just to check out the problem to-day, it will cost us another labor plus parts when he comes back. What happen to Kitchen Aid, this is the first time we bought this brand, my last refrigerator works over 15 years, never have another problem, I am so regret to do the upgrade, I thought Kitchen Aid is a better brand, very disappointed. Also, the technicain told us the new parts and labor will only warantee for 90 days. is it true? We checked with sears, their labor warrantee is for 1 year. How can I find out the terms? Most important is please let us know how can we keep the refrigerator working longer, it is so easy to breakdown, very annoying and we cannot afford to keep on paying the repair job. Thanks.

Hello;

My name is peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

All too often people purchase new appliances when the component that failed is about $30.00.

A refrigerator especially a Hotpoint should last you 25-30 years if maintained.

I once had a service call where I had thought the service order was not right. I arrived at the customers home. The unit was 33 years old. I was pleased when I had the repair part on my truck and helped this elder women.

Your unit date is on a label in the fresh food section on the upper inside wall.

I do work part time locally. Give me a call. 443-306-1362.
Glen Burnie, MD.

If it cannot be purchased right from the maufacturer (which it likely won't as it is 11 years old), you can get nice blenders for around $20 at super stores like Walmart that work well and last for a while.

I think the fan is not working ( inside the refrigerator, not at the back)

Hello,

very common issue on these units, the motor had failed, the motor did have a five yer warranty but we are beyond that.

You can purchase the part from the link below,

http://www.appliancerepairlesson.com/

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


heatman101

The clunking noise you hear , is probably when the compressor shuts off , due to temp reached or when it goes into defrost . An internal motor mount spring , inside the compressor , is broken ( rusted and broke ) . The refrig can go on working for years , without any problem , except noisey , when it cuts off . To stop the noise , replaceing the compressor is the only option . I have heard of placeing objects under 1 leg of the compressor , to " re-adjust " the ballance , but thru my experience , another spring broke , causing more knocking .

Operationally vacuum holds the IWE ( Integrated Wheel Ends ) out, and once vac is removed the spring engages the IWE.

Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground ( take safety precautions, chock wheels, jack stands, etc )
Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft.
If it turns it is a problem with the transfer case.
If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem.

- If the front drive shaft does not turn :
Shut of the truck ( still jacked up, and supported ) remove the vac lines from the IWE. The spring should push the gears in, without the vac line on.
Check the vent line ( tube that is routed into the engine compartment with nothing attached to it ), for blockages.
If the vent line is clear, and with the vac lines off the IWE should be engaged ( both front wheels locked ).
If they lock, the problem is with the IWE solenoid not shutting off vacuum to the IWEs. There is a TSB on the 2004-2006 IWE solenoids, a newer revision has been made, and used from 2007 and newer MYs.

Here is a block diagram of the IWE system


Here is a link to the TSB for the IWE solenoid in PDF format
http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/file_tsb06_08_15.pdf

Start with testing to see if the front drive shaft turns while in 4WD to know which way do go with the repairs, the usual route is the IWE vacuum system ( lines or solenoids ), but I have seen shift motors be a problem also.
If you find a vacuum problem, you can remove and plug the vacuum lines at the IWE, and leave the front hubs locked in all the time, until you can diagnoses where the issue is at.
Just don't try racing anyone or expecting stellar acceleration , pushing a dead axle is going to consume some HP.

these washers have a defective motor right from the box, yell louder.

I won't say I can solve your problem short of coming around and loading your POS fridge in to the back of my truck and running by the scrap metal yard. Keep contacting GE and the retailer who sold it to you about your problems. Hopefully one or the other will get sick of hearing from you and give you a replacement. A 20 cubic foot over/under fridge with ice-maker can be had for $450 US, which should last you around 10 years or so, which is pretty much typical for white goods. I have had pretty good luck with Frigidaire and Hotpoint so far. I still wish I hadn't put the 40 year old Wizard Imperial 14 cubic foot bottom mounted freezer that I bought about 23 years ago out at the curb. Given the chance, it would probably still be working today, as ugly and inefficient as it was.

I have the same problem. I bought it new in the fall of 2007. They replaced the control panel but that didn't help. Next they replaced the whole range with a new one, same model, still the same problem. They told me it was a problem with my electric in my house. Then they said it was a strange electro-magnetic field in my neighborhood and I would have to buy a different brand?
One time with the original stove the oven quit working and I had to re-set the breaker. Everything still works but the clock is always wrong.
We bought all Maytag stuff, including fridge, stove, microwave, dishwasher, washing machine, and dryer. The kitchen stuff is 4 years old. The washer and dryer are 3 years old. We have had this issue with the stove, the washing machine broke and they had to replace the whole drum assembly, and last week my refrigerator broke. Very disappointed with Maytag stuff.
So has anyone found a solution?