Water is getting into all six cylinders from somewhere other than head gasket or intake gasket. engine runs with out water but locks up when water is put into radiator and circulates.

NOTE: Ford does not provide camshaft gear timing marks, or information to perform timing belt service without the special tools shown in this procedure.

REMOVAL
1. Drain engine coolant from radiator and cylinder block by removing the drain plugs.
2. Remove the intake manifold.
3. Remove exhaust manifold.
4. Remove camshafts.
5. Remove valve tappets from cylinder head, then support front of engine with wood block between crankshaft pulley and front subframe.
6. Remove righthand engine lifting eye bolt, then righthand engine lifting eye.
7. Remove power steering pump mounting bracket and cylinder head support bracket.
8. Remove camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley and front cover from front of cylinder head.
9. Remove water thermostat housing from cylinder head as follows:
a. Raise and support vehicle.
b. Disconnect crankcase ventilation tube from positive crankcase ventilation valve.
c. Disconnect upper radiator hose and radiator overflow hose from water hose connection.
d. Remove water outlet connection bolts and water hose connection from water thermostat housing.
e. Remove water thermostat and seal from water thermostat, then seal from water thermostat housing. Inspect seals for damage and replace if necessary.
10. Remove ignition coil bracket from cylinder head as follows:
a. Disconnect fuel charging wiring or engine control sensor wiring from ignition coil, then ignition wires by squeezing locking tabs and twisting while pulling upward.
b. Remove ignition coil bolts or screws, then coil.
c. Remove ignition coil bracket.

Fig. 11 Cylinder head bolt removal sequence


11. Remove spark plugs from cylinder head, then cylinder head bolts in sequence. Discard cylinder head bolts.
12. Remove cylinder head and head gasket from cylinder block.
13. If necessary, remove lefthand engine lifting eye from cylinder head.
14. Inspect cylinder head and cylinder block, then replace components as required.

INSTALLATION
1. Reverse procedure to install, noting following:
a. Clean cylinder head intake manifold, valve cover and cylinder head gasket surfaces. Ensure flatness of cylinder head and cylinder block gasket surfaces meets specifications.

Fig. 12 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence



b. Torque new cylinder head bolts in sequence, first to 15-22 ft lb, then to 30-37 ft lb. Finally tighten all bolts an additional 90-120° in the same sequence.

Radiator coolant in the engine oil is normally an indication of a failed cylinder head gasket or a crack in the cylinder head or both.

Running the engine in an overheated condition will cause head gasket failure and often a crack in the cylinder head.

The problem you have is coolant is escaping into the engine's lubrication passages via the failed head gasket or head crack and contaminating the engine oil. If not fixed you will cause further damage to the engine as oil contaminated with radiator coolant cannot adequately lubricate the engine.

Running a leak down test on each cylinder will confirm the leak. In this case you are going to need to have the cylinder head removed and thoroughly checked for cracks and any warpage as well as a new cylinder head gasket fitted. The condition the engine block surface will also need to be checked.

Check coolant level.

Either you have a head gasket leak from the water passage to the cylinder, or a gasket leak at the intake manifold joint, allowing water in there.

There are tests to narrow it down, a compression test on the cylinders to see if the head gasket is blown, and a probe test to see if there are combustion gases in the coolant.

If both these are OK, the leak is somewhere around the intake manifold.

coil or electronic ignition module going off when turning warmer.i guess run some test

intake manifold gasket. when it leaks water will enter a cylinder causing the sprark plug to short out. when the engine gets hot enough the water will cook off in the cylinder allowing spark to take place. 80% chance intake manifold gasket, buy the upgraded part. 20% chance head gasket. Take the intake off and check for broken intake manifold gasket then buy parts.

The head gasket goes between the block and the head, and seals the combustion process, and cooling water, and (if oil is pumped obove the heads to valve components) oil pressure.

Intake gaskets seal between the intake manifold and the head, and seal against intake vacuum, and in many cases, coolant.

A badly blown head gasket will so destroy compression in the cylinder that you can hear uneven cranking as that cylinder comes up on compression, kind of a “whir, whir, WHIR, whir, whir, WHIR, whir” with the capitalized whir being the engine spinning much faster due to no compression holding the starter back.

You will never be able to hear a problem with an intake manifold gasket until the engine actually starts to fire and/or run.

If you can see water pouring from the front and the rear of the engine/cylinder head then I would suspect a head gasket. However, why not remove those components which will allow you to fully inspect the water pump first as the chances are that you would also have to remove these items to remove and repair the head gasket. You may also find water in the engine oil or water in the cylinders which can cause locking of the engine and serious internal damage if not addressed immediately.

Have a look for a heater control valve that may be leaking in area near firewall on passenger side, just follow your heater hoses.

This may not help, but my 1990 Ford Bronco has a small coolant line running through the throttle housing,(which I bypassed after the metal pipe broke)- "IF" you have a similar setup, maybe it is cracked on the interior and leaking in that way.