Delfield coldpro freezer mod#f2fh evap frozen. what is most common problem?

evap temps usuall run 10-15 degrees below the box temp.This a generally accepted rule of thumb.

Defrost limit/fan delay switch may be bad however if the coil temperature is not 25* the switch will not close.

Head pressure = ambient + 25*F convert to pressure, look at P/T chart for type of refrigerant.

look in the refrigerator section by the light you may need to take off the light cover ... or it may be down on the bottom behind the air grille

Hello,

Changing your gaskets (aka: seals) is a pretty simple process. If you have your unit's model and serial you can write or call us and we can ID which gasket your unit needs. If you don't have that information we offer a custom made gasket option that's pretty simple too.

Click here to view our how to measure and change your gasket videos we made. http://www.coolergaskets.com/how-to-videos/

Shoot us an email at [email protected] or call us at 855-288-2259 and we'll help make replacing your gaskets simple for you.

- Matt
CoolerGaskets

Possible solution to original question at top of page: Recently worked on a Delfield F2FH with the exact same problem. Would get to 12 degrees and then go up and down either to -10 degrees or up to 12 to 55 degrees. Although I cleaned the condenser coil of some dust it was not the problem. There was no icing of the evaporator either. The defrost timer was also working. There was icing of the lines coming off the compressor but this was simply a symptom of the real problem. After checking everything out carefully and talking more with the customer about how the unit was fluctuating in temperture I noticed something that I had not paid much attention to as a possible factor in the problem. It seems a previous technician had worked on the unit and was very sloppy in his work as he did not put many of the screws back in place after taking the unit apart. Two screws that he did not put back were the ones that secure the overhead outside front panel where the door switches are located. As a result the switches were only making a hap hazard connection with the striker pads on the top of the doors. Whenever the owner moved the unit or, wiped the panel or, even opened the door the top service panel would move slightly out of allignment causing one or both door switches not to contact the striker plates. This in turn shut down the evaporator fans inside the freezer compartment which then only allowed cold air to drift to the bottom of the inside of the unit. The temp control sensor, mounted inside at the top near the evaporator fans, was reading tempertures inside the freezer compartment warmer at the top as all the colder air was at the bottom. On this unit there was only about a half inch of tolerance on the door striker plates so if they were not alligned properly the fans did not come on. So, check your door switches and see if they are engaging. One or both of your doors may have dropped to low to fully engage your door switches due to worn bushing or hinges (each door will only turn half the fans on inside); your striker plates may be worn cracked or out of allignment; your top panel is loose and moving the strikers out of allignment. Don't forget to manually test the evaportor fans to see if they are all working. Do this by opening both doors and pressing both door switches. If the fans do not come on suspect a bad switch which controls the fans which failed. If all the fans come on the problem is in the contact of door to striker plate. If one or even two fans do not come on test the fan itself. The air must circulate insde to keep a proper temperture. I hope this was helpful.

[email protected] Appliance Technician

depending on the age it might be built into the board if it dont have a board the timer might be close to the compressor

start simple. be sure that the condenser coil is clean. you should be able to see all the way thru the fins. verify that the evap fans and the condenser fans run. make sure nothing blocks air flow inside the conditioned space and around the condenser coil and compressor.
Let me know if we need to go further.

You may have a slow refrigerant leak or too much refrigerant in the system. Contact an appliance service company.

I would expect at the very least a heater circuit around the freezer door. Some of the commercial units also have sprung doors to keep the doors firmly shut which you could check by opening the doors. Door heater circuits are normally very reliable and it would be worth checking the voltage is getting to them, they are also a pain to change out. Hope this helps.