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F-03 means that there is an heating system problem.
The heating system consists in the heater element and in a thermistor, located near to the element. The parts are located behind the panel at the back of the washer. Both element and thermostat can be tested using a mulitimeter to check if they have continuity (Ohms reading across part's terminals returns infinity).
Here a movie showing how to reach the heating element:
You-Tube video "rI6yItFjzQs&feature=player_embedded#!" placeholder
If the fan blows and green light flashes. When the green light is fix, it means the time is set to start your heat pump. Check your electrical control and wiring for any damages including the terminal lugs, capacitor, or relay. Check also if the thermostat is working. If your heating comes from heating coils, check continuity of the heater wire including the overload. Replace any defective parts.
Before replacing the heating element, check first the continuity of the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the heater box, the resistance of the heating element, and the continuity cycling thermostat located on the blower housing. Replace the heating element only when it reads open. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat should any one of them is found open. The cycling thermostat must have continuity between its thicker terminals; otherwise, replace it.
All of the above components are accessible through the rear of the dryer. Remove the rear panel by removing the screws securing i to thedryer cabinet. Replace the heating element by removing the screws attaching its housing to the heater box then securing the new heating element housing in place.
If it will run, but does not heat......Yes, it is most likely a heater or thermostat failure. Most dryers have more than one thermostat. You can find out which one is faulty by measuring continuity with a meter. At room temperature all thermostats will have continuity between the two terminals. Make sure to unplug the power cord before opening any machine!!
Heating problems always seem to involve the thermostats. Check the thermostats for continuity. Usually the upper limit thermostat is bad, but replace both thermostats if one is bad. Check the continuity of the heater and the thermal fuse. Disconnect one wire and test between the terminals. You should have continuity, or they are bad.
Check the continuity of the cycling thermostat using an ohmmeter set to X1. Disconnect one wire from the cycling thermostat terminals then connect one test lead of the ohmmeter to each terminal. The reading is zero ohms for an apparently good thermostat; further test is required to check its operation.
Unscrew the cycling thermostat from the heater housing and pull it out of the dryer. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers or similar tool, hold the thermostat over a burner and verify if it clicks when heated. Carefully check the continuity immediately before it clicks again. The ohmmeter reading is infinite (open) and zero ohms when the thermostat cools down and clicks again. A good cycling thermostat cycles off when heated, and on when it cools down.
Every heating circuit component in the heater housing need to be checked when the dryer is not heating. Set the ohmmeter to X1 and measure the resistance between the heating element terminals. The resistance depends on the model of your washer. Replace it when the ohmmeter reading is infinite (open).
The thermal cut-off fails when the cycling thermostat fails to cycle off. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off. Disconnect one wire from its terminals and connect one ohmmeter test lead to each of the terminals. The resistance is zero for a good thermal cut-off.
A blown thermal cut-off is an indication of a failed cycling thermostat. The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when the thermal cut-off is blown. Just unscrew the blown component and screw the new component in place. Specify the brand and model number of your washer for the specific replacement parts.
Warning: Disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.
1 failed upper or lower Tstat
2 Shorted element
To test element:
disconnect both wires to element terminals. use continuity tester to see if there is continuity through element (one probe on each element terminal) If no continuity element is bad. Then test for continuity between each element terminal and the water heater itself.( one probe on element terminal and one probe grounded on bare metal or inner tank.) If there is continuity from terminal to ground, element is bad and also can cause tank to continue heating even when thermostat shuts off.
This is because the thermostat only shuts off one pole of the 220 and a shorted element can continue heating from the 2nd pole.
If both elements test OK and water heater heats the full tank( tank feels hot at bottom element access panel when no hot water for 2 hours) most likely the lower thermostat is bad.
Sounds like your heating coil is faulty.
Unplug the dryer, remove the back of the dryer.
Locate the air tube going from the blower to the drum.
Normally inside the air tube is where you will find the heating coil and thermostats.
Remove the wires from the heating coil...and check with a continuity meter across the two terminals...you should read continuity across the terminals, if you do not read continuity across the terminals then the heater coil is faulty.
I hope this helps
You did not say if you had an Electric or Gas dryer.
My expertise is with Electric Dryers.
If you have an Electric Dryer then you problem is probably the heating coil or thermostats.
Unplug the dryer.
To check them remove the back of the dryer, locate the air tube going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air tube you will find the heating coil and thermostats.
Remove the wires from the heating coil. Use a continuity meter on the two terminals to check for continuity...if you do not show continuity, then the heater coil is probably faulty.
I hope this helps
I f you have warranty on this please call them, you have a defective
D/W.Unless there is no charge for repairs ,don't spend a dollar on what
is going to be a on going problem ahead.To explain how to fix this is
what the manufacturer should have done in the factory and not made 1
dollar off of this defective D/W until it proved this to be ready .What
has happened to Quality Control ? Does it no longer matter ? Very sorry
,you should seek a refund ASAP.