Question about Whirlpool Refrigerators
Moved refrig to garage , worked great for 2 weeks, now freezer and refrig will not cool down, also need to find replacement ice maker
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE GSS20IE Ice Maker
Even though the fridge was given to you it still has a 1 yr warranty from manufacture date. Look on the sticker inside the fridge and see if it gives the manufacture date or get the receipt from you gave it to you. Call 1-800-905-9505 for service. They are nationwide (US). If you find out it is older than 1 yr then use the model # on that sticker and go to www3.sears.com to get the correct part # for the icemaker. Unfortunately these come as a whole unit and can't replace parts. Once you have the correct part # I bet will find a good price on ebay for a new ice maker. If you need help finding the part # or any other questions let me know. If you feel I didn't help solve your problem please let me know before you rate this solution.
Posted on Oct 13, 2007
SOURCE: Whirlpool ED25DQ - not colling
Need you to look inside the fresh food compartment and turn the defrost timer clockwise slowly.
part number 6 is defrost timer. When you turn it and compressor stops leave it there for 20 minutes and see if the refrigerator comes back on. If not the timer will need to be replaced, Let me know, Sea Breeze
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
Tip: Most self-defrosting household refrigerators that loose part or all of their cooling in the freezer or fridge are having problems with the self-defrost system. Three components to check: defrost timer; defrost heater elements (esp. on side x side units); and evaporator fan. All cold air is normally produced in the freezer, then circulated via evaporator fan to the refrigerator section. About every 12 hrs. a defrost timer turns off the compressor, and turns on the defrost elements to melt the frost from the evaporator coils. This normally takes about 20 minutes to complete, then the timer turns off the heaters, and restores normal cooling operations. If the cycle does not complete properly, the coils will "ice up", restricting proper air circulation through the freezer and refrigerator sections. Worse yet is if timer sticks in defrost mode (rare), it will turn the freezer into an oven. If the defrost system seems to be working normally, then you should check the condensing coils for excess dirt, and vacuum &/or bush the dirt and lint out to restore proper head disipation. It's recommended that you vacuum out a condensor that's located on the bottom of the unit once a year. You should also check the condensor fan (if present) for proper operation. If the condensor fan fails, heat can not be properly released from the condensor, and will cause the refrigerator to 'run all the time' yet not cool efficiently. There are many things to check on modern frost-free refrigerators, before turning to the actual sealed refrigeration system and compressor unit.
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
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