Question about Intermatic & Indoor/Outdoor Rain Tight Timer
I'm looking at the T-103 sitting here in my office.
Terminals are labeled: A 1 2 3 4
I have about 10 different Intermatic timers on the shelves & each is a bit different
The T103 has a 120Volt (or 110V) clock motor
You need a white Neutral wire to operate the T103 clock
120V: Let's say your Load (light, fan, pump) is 120V
The white Neutral from breaker box connects to Terminal A
The 120V black Hot wire from breaker box connects to Terminal 1
The black wire going to Load (fan, light, motor) connects to terminal 2
The white wire going to Load connects to terminal A along with the Neutral
Ground wires connects to green ground screw
If your wires from breaker and wires to load are wired in reverse, the timer will turn ON the Load but the timer will not shut the circuit OFF.
To test which wire is Hot and Neutral, look at explanation at bottom of page.
240V: Let's say your Load is 240 Volts (or 220 Volts)
The clock motor is still 120V so you still need a white Neutral wire connected on Terminal A
Now you have 2 Hot wires coming from breaker box
Hot wire 1 from breaker box connects to Terminal 1
Hot wire 2 from breaker box connects to Terminal 3
Wire 1 going to Load connects to Terminal 2
Wire 2 going to Load connects to Terminal 4
Ground wires connects to green ground screw
What if you don't have a Neutral wire and you are wiring a 240V circuit?
240V circuits normally have 2 hots and a ground, but no neutral
Buy the T-104 timer
The T-104 has a 240V clock motor
Wiring for the T-104 is exactly the same as 240V wiring shown above for T103 EXCEPT there is no Neutral on Terminal A, and Terminal A is bare
How to test which wire is Hot
Test requires wires with live electricity >>> this is not advisable without precaution
Stand on dry boards, do not touch anything metal, wear dry clothes, do not hold screwdriver in mouth, wear gloves, tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power
Remove wires from terminals
Separate wires so they can be tested
Turn on power
Test each wire to bare ground wire
Tester lights up on Hot wire(s)
If circuit is 120V, then there is only one Hot wire
If circuit is 240V, then 2 wires will test hot to ground >> these wires will be Hots 1 & 2
Test assumes circuit breaker is functioning normally.
How do you test for neutral?
If you have 120V line with only 1 hot wire, then one of the white wires will be Neutral?
Test Hot wire to each white wire
Tester lights up on neutral
Posted on Oct 17, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
T103 has 120Volt clock motor, so we can wire this timer.
T103 timer is rated for 30 amps and 2horsepower and your blowers use 28 amps.
So we're getting close to max on the timer. Hopefully blowers won't all be started at one time since motors draw maximum amperage when they start.
However, you need 30 amp breaker and orange 10 gauge wire for that much amperage >> unless only one blower is turned ON at any given time.
Always match wire size, amperage of breaker and amperage of Load or it will trip the breaker.
If you put 30 amp breaker on size 10 wire it is good. But 30 amp breaker on smaller size 14 or 12 gauge wire is fire hazard.
Add a comment at any time, and I will respond
Look at the basics:
You have 2 cables.
One cable comes from breaker box.
Other cable goes to three 120V plugs (120V is same as 110V).
Each cable has black-wire, white-wire and bare-copper-ground-wire.
How to wire the timer.
Timer has 5 terminals: A 1 2 3 4
A) Cable from breaker box:
White wire from breaker connects to terminal A
Black-wire from breaker connects to terminal 1
B) Cable going to 3 plugs
Black wire to plugs connects to terminal 2
White wire to plugs connects to terminal A
Ground wires connect to green ground screw.
Terminals 3 and 4 are not used in this case.
Here is a wiring diagram that shows 120Volt from breaker box and 120Volt going to Load
Posted on Nov 27, 2010
Testimonial: "Great help quickly thanks"
Intermatic has had an issue with the main drive gear striping in there timers, I don't know of any best practice repair method for this part, I suggest you replace it or if your not electrically comfortable call a local electrician.
Hope this helps...
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
yes u will, but u will have to make sure one of the motor wires are hooked up that way also, in case it has been moved, here is a link with the diagram u need
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
You could wire it to 240V but you will need to move one of the timer motor wires to the neutral conductor. That way the motor would run on 120V. but both circuits could then be connected to terminals 1 and 3. IF you fail to remove the motor wire from terminal 3 then you will burn up the motor. You actually need a T104M for 230V operation
Posted on Aug 10, 2010
T-103 has 120V clock motor with 5 terminals A 1 2 3 4
Tork 1101 has 120V clock motor with 4 terminals L 1 X 2
T103 is DPST and can control one-or-two 120Volt loads, or one-or-two 240Volt loads.
Tork 1101 is SPST can control one 120Volt load
Common ground between these timers one 120 Volt load
Changeover for one 120 Volt load:
White wires T103 terminal A go to Tork terminal X
Black wire T103 terminal 1 goes Tork terminals L and 1 (there is brass connector plate that connects L and 1 - if connector is missing, jumper between L and 1)
Black wire on T103 terminal 2 goes Tork terminal 2
If Load requirement is greater than T1101, Grainger sells T103 clock motor for $16
How to wire T103
T1101 wiring manual
Posted on Dec 02, 2010
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