Question about Toshiba 52HMX84 52" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
was the lamp blown if it was blown you could be hearing the ballast
if the lamp was not blown and the new one did not fix it the red light indicates the door there is a little switch when you put the door back on if you look at it it may need to be adjusted so it will connect with the door if that is not it you could have a fan that is not turn if it is making a real loud constant humming noise while it trying to fire the lamp you probably have a bad color wheel
Posted on Nov 19, 2008
SOURCE: toshiba 52hmx84 shutting off
When the bulb on one of these Toshiba DLP units burns out, the unit will show a blinking green and a solid red, and restart itself 8 times, then show blinking green and red lights. A replacement bulb costs about $200 and is very easy to replace. If you replace the bulb and the symptoms continue, the problem is probably the ballast. The manual and Toshiba support will direct you to an authorized service center, but if you are ambitious and want to save the expense, here are instructions for replacing the ballast yourself.
First, many thanks to those of you who have done this before me and posted elsewhere. There was a request for pics of the ballast board install, so here it is.
FULL DISCLOSURE AND WARNING: YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN AND I WARRANT NOTHING FROM THESE PROCEDURES. I AM NOT A TV TECH. THERE ARE SOME VERY HIGH VOLTAGES IN THE BACK OF A TV BECAUSE OF THE LARGE CAPACITORS. BE CAREFUL. THERE ARE ALSO MANY DELICATE CABLES AND CONNECTORS IN THE BACK OF A DLP TV. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK! IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WITH ANY OF THE STEPS, CONTACT A TV TECHNICIAN IN YOUR AREA TO DO IT!
You will need:
1. A slightly long standard head Philips screwdriver.
2. A leatherman or small pair of pliers.
3. The Toshiba service manual. Refer to it often if you get lost. - download it here.
4. The ballast board (Toshiba Part Number: 23122468). I got mine from Conn's in Flordia here.
5. Some tape or a marker to label some of the cables so you don't forget what went where.
6. Patience. Lots of it.
1. UNPLUG THE TV! Put the TV somewhere so that you can easily get to the back of it. You'll need at least 3 ft of room behind the TV. REMOVE THE LAMP ASSEMBLY NOW.
2. Remove all of the screws on the lower part of the TV. Set the cover aside. It should look like this:
3. To get an idea of where we're going, as you look at the back of the TV, just behind the fan and lamp assembly is the ballast board, looks like this:
4. Next, remove the screws from the silver brace arm in the middle and the bronze screws that hold the light engine assembly. This brace is attached to the ribbon cable by a Zip tie; you do not have to cut the Zip tie if you don't want to. Refer to the service manual if the pic below doesn't show the screws clearly, but it will be obvious when you are looking at the "light engine sled".
5. Remove the bronze screw holding the plastic shield that angles down to the lamp. This screw is kind of hard to see just looking at the back of the TV, it is located up and above the ribbon cable attached to the back AV board.
6. Using a small pair of pliers, squeeze the plastic nipples in and push the cable hangers out of the plastic shield. Remove the shield carefully from the back of the TV and set aside.
7. Slowly and very carefully, remove the copper ribbon cable as shown. This copper ribbon cable was the hardest thing to put back in during reassembly, I kid you not. I hate that ribbon cable with all of my soul. Next, remove the yellow, blue, and red connectors as shown. If you forget where they went, the connectors are different lengths and only go to one and only one receptacle.
8. Slowly and carefully, pull out the light engine assembly. There are 2 yellow leads that power the lamp assembly that you can remove if needed. To remove them, slide the rubber footing off, and you will see a very small clip, push the clip back while pulling on the lead and it will come off. If you do take the leads off, be sure to label them with a marker or some tape. Mine were quite stubborn in letting go (I didn't see the clips under the rubber footing before this posted), so I left them on. If you do leave them on, be carefull of the stress on the cable going around the lens assembly. I removed the cables from the plastic do-hickey holding onto them and moved the yellow cables to the front of the lens assembly.
9. Next, slowly pull out the light engine sled and turn it so that you have access to the ballast assembly, like so:
10. Noticing how filthy your ballast board probably is , remove the two screws holding the ballast board.
11. Now, remove the 2 connectors attached to the ballast board like so:
12. Next, gently push the plastic tabs holding down the ballast board to the light engine assembly and gently push up the ballast board to loosen it from the plastic tabs grip. There are two other tabs on the other side. Now you'll now be able to remove the ballast assembly entirely to install your new board.
13. Now, on the other side of the ballast assembly is the lamp connector. Remove the screws as shown.
14. Gently turn the lamp connector towards you to remove it; notice the orientation of the connector so you install it correctly when you put the new board in.
15. Now, install your new board and put everything back together in reverse order. This would also be a good time to take some compressed air and blow out all of the dust in there. Take your time during reassembly and be very, very, very carefull connecting everyting back together.
16. Be sure to put the back cover on, and re-install the lamp assembly before connecting your inputs and powering back on.
17. That's it! If you did everything carefully enough, you should be enjoying your Toshiba again and just saved about $350! Congrats!
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
Your TV is a DLP one lamp does it all, not like the old projection TVs with the Red, Green & Blue CRTs. Your TV may have a bad light engine or lose cable connections.
Posted on Nov 08, 2009
To answer your question;
The official release date was the 1of june 2009
And sometimes at the back you may even have the month that yours was manufactured.
Posted on Jan 23, 2010
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