Question about York Furnace Draft Inducer Blower Fasco # A224

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Had a no heat call the other day on a York GY9S080B12up11a. unit was off on code 3, pressure switch. differential switch is rated for -1.2. hooked up the manometer and was getting -1.2. still wouldn't close. went to York and picked up a new switch. the guy at York told me the furnace i was working on needed a pressure switch with a -1.0 differential. so they gave me the proper switch, i popped it in and nothing. put the old one back in, turned it horizontally and it worked(i'm guessing thanks to gravity) for about a day. tried a new switch with a -1.2 rating, nothing. I'm fresh out of ideas. i've checked the tube's, they're good. cleaned out all the drains, checked venting, clear as a far as i can see, good slope. checked the I.D motor, seems good. any ideas for what might be wrong would be great.

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Make sure there is water in the drain trap. If the drain is "WIDE OPEN" the fan can draw air from the trap and not from outside, and the pressure differential will not be enough. This happens as the trap dries out over the summer, then when you start the furnace, the condensate drain from the fan is dry.On some furnaces this trap is a square box,anyway fill that tubing till you see water running to drain.If you read your manual it should tell you to prime the trap. Position of the switch, shouldn't matter, as it is s diaphragm that the vacuum pulls on to engage the switch. You're probably close to the setting, and by just moving the switch, made it operate.

Posted on Oct 17, 2010

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FAULT CODE IDENTIFICATION TABLE - VMACIII - 1998 & NEWER
1-1 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor
1-2 Barometric Pressure Sensor
1-3 Fuel Temperature Sensor
1-4 Ambient Air Temp Sensor
1-6 Starter Input
1-7 Engine Coolant Level
1-8 (ASET CEGR) Estimated % Fan Speed
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2-1 Engine Coolant Temp Sensor
2-2 (ASET IEGR) Boost Air Pressure Sensor
2-2 (ASET CEGR) Boost Air Pressure
2-3 Intake Air Temp Sensor
2-4 Trans Oil Temp Sensor
2-5 Front Drive Axle Oil Temp Sensor
2-6 Rear Drive Axle Oil Temp Sensor
2-7 Engine Oil Temp Sensor
2-8 (ASET CEGR) Combustion Air Temperature
2-9 (ASET CEGR) Combustion Air Temp Sensor
3-1 Exhaust Temperature Sensor
3-2 Engine Speed Sensor
3-3 Redundant Engine Speed
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3-5 Engine Brake Output #1
3-6 Engine Brake Output #2
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3-10 (ASET CEGR) Engine Brake Output #3
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4-4 Auxiliary Output #2
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4-8 Customer Defined Statement
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5-1 Throttle Position Sensor
5-2 Throttle Position Sensor Reference Voltage
5-3 Engine Shutdown Lamp/Alarm
5-5 Electronic Malfunction Lamp
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5-9 (ASET CEGR) EGR Mass Flow
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7-6 Switched Voltage
7-7 Exhaust Temp Reference
7-9 VTG Actuator
8-1 Electronic Unit Pump #1
8-2 Electronic Unit Pump #2
8-3 Electronic Unit Pump #3
8-4 Electronic Unit Pump #4
8-5 Electronic Unit Pump #5
8-6 Electronic Unit Pump #6
8-9 Solenoid Boost Voltage
9-1 Transport Protocol
9-2 Power Reset Without Key Switch
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9-5 (ASET CEGR) Compressor Discharge Temp
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9-9 (ASET CEGR) Auxiliary Output Device #2
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10-4 (ASET CEGR) Sensor Supply Voltage #2
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10-6 (ASET CEGR) Fuel Delivery Pressure
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on Dec 20, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

York diamond 90


The problem could be clogged hoses or hose connections or a bad pressure switch. Remove one wire from pressure switch start furnace as soon as inducer fan starts reattach wire if furnace runs replace pressure switch.hope this helps

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1 Answer

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That relates to a pressure switch fault. Unless you own, and know how to properly use a manometer this could easily be mis diagnosed. You have a combustion blower inside the top cabinet, and coming off either the blower assembly, or the cold end header box it's attached to there will be a round plastic pressure switch. It will have 2-3 wires, and 1-2 plastic hoses coming off. Depending if it's a single, or two stage model it may have two pressure switches, one for low fire, and the other for high fire. The switch will have a rating in "WC on it. If there's one hose going to the pressure switch, remove it from the pressure switch and attach it to a manometer. If you read a bigger number the switch is bad, if it's lower look for blockages in the vent, and intake pipes. If there's two hoses off the pressure switch then the difference in pressure has to be greater than the rating on the switch. Good luck!

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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I would suspect the air pressure differential switch. It looks like a diaphragm with a piece of tubing running to it and a electric switch mounted on it. Before changing it though, check that the condensate drain trap has water in it. I know that sounds silly, but if there is no water in the trap (if it's desperate from AC trap, then it can dry out in summer) you can be pulling air through the trap, and not enough pressure differential to trip switch. Also be sure the intake is clean outside. If there is any kind of Screen on intake be sure it's open. You can test switch with tester to see if it is the problem. The switch should close after the draft inducer fan starts.

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1 Answer

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Armstrong

FAILURE CODES

LED Status Fault Description
Off
No Power to the System Control

Steady Flash (11 or more flashes with no pause)
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2 Flashes
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3 Flashes
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